Cleaning the cylinder on a 586

[DrewW]

Ok guys I have a little problem here, today when I was cleaning my 586 I bought last month I got everything cleaned up except for the inside of the cylinder right where the end of the case for .38 specials is. I have scrubbed the heck out of it with a brass brush and Birchwood Casey's Bore scrubber but it doesn't seem to budge. Any idea what I can use to get this cleaned up? It looks almost like it could be rust up in there, I tried scratching it out with a pick and got a little to budge but that seems like it is going to take forever to clean out that way.

Not sure what was shot in the gun before I got it but it was there before I shot the gun, only thing I have shot is a couple of boxes of Remington UMC lead round nose bullets. I did get some of it off but now it seems no matter how many times I run the brush through it I can't knock anymore loose.

This is my first handgun so sorry if I didn't give you all enough information, I am use to cleaning shotguns.

38 specials chamber fine but .357 mags won't go in without a good push.

 

[tomcatt51]

The dreaded buildup from shooting 38 specials. You need a .375 bore brush, a piece of cleaning rod to screw the bore brush into, and a drill motor to chuck the rod in. Squirt some solvent in the chambers and on the brush and have at it. Clean ONLY the chambers this way.

 

[S&W revolverman]

I've never used Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber but, I'd try running a soaked patch through each charge hole a couple of times and allow your solvent to soak for, maybe an hour, then try your brushing again.

Hope this helps
chris

 

[pownal55]

if solvent doesn't do it try jb bore paste.

 

[keppelj]

In my experience JB wont do it either. It'll produce black patches without opening the chamber much. Remarkably, putting a bronze brush in a drill motor and using that will scar the cylinder throats. The only solution I know is to get a stainless chamber brush on a rod and work that in and out. Never use that on the bore, of course.

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by keppelj:
In my experience JB wont do it either. It'll produce black patches without opening the chamber much. Remarkably, putting a bronze brush in a drill motor and using that will scar the cylinder throats. The only solution I know is to get a stainless chamber brush on a rod and work that in and out. Never use that on the bore, of course.

I've got several revolvers that get their chambers cleaned with a brush in a drill motor regularly (my 625's and 627's before every match, my 617's when rounds won't chamber or before every match) none have any "scars" in the throats or chambers. Same for my Ti cylinders.

If your idea of a big shooting session is 25 rds you may get the chambers clean with just a rod and brush, but I've taken peoples "clean" guns and run a drill powered brush thru the chambers and showed how much crud they're leaving.

 

[guntownuncle]

Originally posted by DrewW:
Not sure what was shot in the gun before I got it but it was there before I shot the gun, only thing I have shot is a couple of boxes of Remington UMC lead round nose bullets.

Last November I bought a 686 and have shot plenty of 38's and 357's through it. I do notice the rings the 38's leave, but have little trouble getting them out. I've only used semijacketed or full metal jacket bullets, though. I wonder if the lead bullets you're using could have something to do with it? It doesn't seem like it would, but maybe.

 

[OKFC05]

Use a copper/lead solvent like Shooter's Choice.
The run a Brownell's "Tornado" spiral steel chamber brush throught it.

I shoot thousands of .38s in .357 chambers, and the chambers look like new. Most of the stubborn residue is lead, which is loosened by the solvent and swept out by the brush. Quick and easy.

 

[DrewW]

Originally posted by guntownuncle:

Originally posted by DrewW:
Not sure what was shot in the gun before I got it but it was there before I shot the gun, only thing I have shot is a couple of boxes of Remington UMC lead round nose bullets.

Last November I bought a 686 and have shot plenty of 38's and 357's through it. I do notice the rings the 38's leave, but have little trouble getting them out. I've only used semijacketed or full metal jacket bullets, though. I wonder if the lead bullets you're using could have something to do with it? It doesn't seem like it would, but maybe.

The lead ammo may have something to do with it however there was already a noticeable ring there when I got the gun so it may simple be the buildup from a lot of rounds.


I tried letting the Bore Scrubber soak for awhile with no effect on the rings, it says it removes copper and lead fouling and it did a great job on the barrel it just isn't touching the stuff in the chamber. I will try the stainless chamber brush and if that doesn't work do the bronze brush in the drill motor technique.

Thanks for the help guys,

 

[OKFC05]

tried letting the Bore Scrubber soak for awhile with no effect on the rings

Really think you need a better lead solvent if it has built up awhile. Bore Scrubber is more all-purpose.

 

[Cary]

One procedure I use with success is take an old bore brush that is caliber specific to your gun or the next smaller in size. Get one of the Copper Chore Boy scour pads used on pots and pans in the kitchen. Take some scissors and cut it apart so you have a piece the width of the brush and 2"-3" long. Wrap several layers of this around the brush and use this on the cylinder. You want a snug fit so you may need to experiment some. This is more aggressive on deposits than a brass brush but will not harm your gun. Just makes sure the material is copper and not steel. You can use a magnet to check if you're not sure.
Cary

 

[DrewW]

Originally posted by OKFC05:

tried letting the Bore Scrubber soak for awhile with no effect on the rings

Really think you need a better lead solvent if it has built up awhile. Bore Scrubber is more all-purpose.

Went by the local hardware store, only thing they had that seemed like it might do the job was Remington 40X Bore Cleaner. Is this stuff any good? Do you think it will take care of it?

If not I think I can get the shooter's choice at the local dealer but he is about 35-40 minutes away so it will probably be Saturday before I get out there.

I think we have some of the copper chore boys around the house, may try that if nothing else seems to be working.

Thanks for everything guy, keep the great suggestions coming.

 

[Cary]

Drew,
The Chore Boy trick works good on bore leading as well. If you use some cast bullets and happen to develop a nasty leading problem it will cut out the lead very well. With the bulk of the lead removed you can then remove the trace amounts with a good lead removal solvent.
I got the Chore Boy trick from a fellow cast bullet shooter.
Cary

 

[tomcatt51]

Chore Boy (make sure it's copper) wrapped around a bore brush works great for a leaded bore, but so does shooting some jacketed rounds as bore cleaners. I realize that the drill motor routine sounds harsh but if you've got much buildup in the chambers it cleans out in 5 minutes what you'll otherwise spend days messing with and not fully removing.

 

[Damn Yankee]

Wrap some 0000 steel wool around a old scrub brush and go to town. You will see the lead come right out.

 

[canoe on the yukon]

Originally posted by OKFC05:
Use a copper/lead solvent like Shooter's Choice.
The run a Brownell's "Tornado" spiral steel chamber brush throught it.

I shoot thousands of .38s in .357 chambers, and the chambers look like new. Most of the stubborn residue is lead, which is loosened by the solvent and swept out by the brush. Quick and easy.

DITTO.....I have also used oversized bore brushes meant for a larger caliber....45 brush in 38 cylinder,etc

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by DrewW:
Ok guys I have a little problem here, today when I was cleaning my 586 I bought last month I got everything cleaned up except for the inside of the cylinder right where the end of the case for .38 specials is. I have scrubbed the heck out of it with a brass brush and Birchwood Casey's Bore scrubber but it doesn't seem to budge. Any idea what I can use to get this cleaned up? .

OK, I'll give away the secret:

Get a .38 NYLON bore brush and a 6" cleaning rod.

Cut a strip of scotchbrite pad and "work" it into the bristles of the bore brush. It works best if the pad strip is applied "spiral" to the brush.

Force the brush into the cylinder tube.


Attach a hand drill to the rod and start spinning the brush.

In stubborn cases:

chrome polish is your secret weapon. Use a Q tip and apply it to the burn ring and let it sit overnight.

You can also use the polish in the tube as you spin the brush.

This is the only way to get the burn rings out with little abrasion.

 

[DrewW]

I got a couple of different bore solvents and none of them seemed to put a dent in it at all so I broke down and used the drill, it worked ok still a little left in there. I think that I can get the rest of it out with solvent now though. Local hardware store didn't have any of the copper chore boy but next time I make a run to town I will pick some up so that I can give it a shot and see how it does.

 

[tomcatt51]

So run it a little more and get the rest out. Next time will be easier.

 

[chief38]

LEWIS LEAD REMOVER!!