Colt 70 Series 1911 unfired I picked up.

[SC_Mike]

I made a half-hearted offer on this and the guy took it, darn.

As far as I could tell it was unfired in what looks like the original box. Serial number puts it a 1972 manufacture. Of course I had to shoot it. Was getting some fail to ejects, the spend case caught down in the slide, not high enough to call it a stove pipe. I figure a new recoil spring and new mag should fix it.

Do the grips look original?

Thanks, Mike.

 

[stevebarracuda]

I had a pre 70 series , 1968 mfg. that had identical grips.

 

[Murdock]

Grips look correct for the era. Believe Colt referred to them as "Coltwood."

 

[les.b]

Grips look correct for the era. Believe Colt referred to them as "Coltwood."

"Coltwood" was the plastic grips Colt issued during the early 1950s. But I agree that these look period correct.

Best Regards, Les

 

[arjay]

That’s a nice one!
Colt used those grips in the early 70s and then went to the checkered ones

 

[Chino74]

Ya that is nice! I am sure the function will be fine, try new recoil spring first then go to new mags I always try to remember to change one thing at a time otherwise I never know what was the root cause of any problem...

 

[Univibe]

Save the factory mag for show. Get some Wilson ETM for shooting.

 

[BigBill]

First check the tuning on the extractor. Sounds like the fired case isn’t being held in the cycling slide long enough.

 

[Big Cholla]

I agree with the above posters; it is both mag and extractor problems. I also agree that the original mags should be put away and quality aftermarket mags purchased. The extractor should be tuned by a pistolsmith that 'knows' the M 1911. The design by John Browning was period correct, but to keep one functioning the 'tune' must be correct. Even then it will lose the correct bend and again become a problem. When shooting USPSA and IDPA I kept two extra extractors in my range bag. That is why I like very much the new external extractor design. ..

BTW: You do know what that handgun is worth today do you not?

BTW2: The recoil spring should be matched with each and every specific brand of ammo you are shooting. Buy a range of Wolfe's springs and experiment. You will find the right combination.

 

[SC_Mike]

I agree with the above posters; it is both mag and extractor problems. I also agree that the original mags should be put away and quality aftermarket mags purchased. The extractor should be tuned by a pistolsmith that 'knows' the M 1911. The design by John Browning was period correct, but to keep one functioning the 'tune' must be correct. Even then it will loose the correct bend and again become a problem. When shooting USPSA and IDPA I kept two extra extractors in my range bag. That is why I like very much the new external extractor design. ..

BTW: You do know what that handgun is worth today do you not?

BTW2: The recoil spring should be matched with each and every specific brand of ammo you are shooting. Buy a range of Wolfe's springs and experiment. You will find the right combination.

Well, I know what I paid. But being a novice with 1911s I'm open to ideas of its worth...

Also, thank you for the info.

 

[BigBill]

I had a nib SA series 90(1990) 1911@1 in the safe for over a decade. She jammed 1rd per 8rd mag. In all these years I don’t think I had 50rds through it. When I purchased every cd on working on the 1911 from Wilson combat, Jerry k dvd and book, agi I honed my skills and actually built my norinco 1911 project. After having success building the norinco I remembered the SA I had that stove piped. I did purchase all the 1911 tools from brownells. I took the SA extractor and found out it had no tention to hold the fired case. It would extract it and let it drop. In ten minutes I had the SA problem fixed. I even flared the bottom of the extractor so it would guide the case rim into the chamber easier. I also machined in a disconnector ramp on the bottom of the slide. Don’t go deep with it.

To tune my extractor I used the fixture from brownells with the pull gage. I set the extractor tention to the 1911 specs. By trade I’m a class A CNC machine builder. Guns aren’t that hard to work on.

I did pick up a series 80 government model 1911@1 in nickel. She’s growing roots in the safe, it was $1,000.

 

[ladder13]

Following for valuation. This one is NIB with everything.

 

[Texas Star]

Before doing anything else, did you field strip the gun and lube with an oil like Break-Free? ALWAYS do that with an auto you buy, before shooting.

But I think you were sold this gun by an owner who knew it had problems.
A new extractor or work on this one should solve the problem. And try a new Colt or Mec-Gar magazine.

Are you aware that the MK IV Series 70 uses a split collet barrel bushing? Those enhance accuracy, but a finger on the bushing may break and jam the gun. I prefer the older solid bushing. You'll probably have to change both barrel and bushing, as I think the Series 70 barrel has a slight flare to accommodate the collet bushing.

I owned two of these when they were new and they shot very well for a "stock" Govt. Model. But I was always paranoid about the collet bushing breaking.

If I was buying a Colt .45 auto now, it'd be a current stainless one.

I hope you got this Series 70 for under $1,000. About $850 would be better. But for far less, you can buy a CZ-75B or a M-92FS Beretta 9mm that'll be more accurate and probably more reliable. I trust modern 9mm JHP ammo to be an effective stopper. Feedback from the Iraq war told me that even military ball 9mm usually kills well. This info covers about 15 gunfights, not ballistic gelatin targets.

 

[magmag]

Checkered Coltwood stocks were standard in 72 for Government and Commanders.

"Sandblasted" / "Bark" stocks were used from 71-75 for Combat Commanders but I've seem Governments with them from factory as well.

Enclose an 1972 original ad for reference.

 

[alwslate]

I have a series 70 Colt that I bought new in 1974. The sandblasted look
wood grips are correct. I seriously doubt that you need a new recoil
spring or mag. As mentioned above clean your new gun and lube it
with Breakfree CLP and shoot it with ammo that you know to be full
power. When new the series 70 guns are pretty tight because of the
collet bushing and require a bit of breaking in. I wouldn't worry about
the collet bushing breaking, mine never has.

 

[max]

I have been shooting my 70 Series GC since the 70's and have loaded over 25k lead swc rounds for it. I had problems when I first got it and I bought it used. There was an extractor problem and I also had the barrel throated and the ramp polished for the shooting of swc's.

It has been pretty much trouble free ever since. I did replace the collet bushing, but am not sure it was necessary. If you do, it is not necessary to replace the barrel.

 

[spad124]

I had a nib SA series 90(1990) 1911@1 in the safe for over a decade. She jammed 1rd per 8rd mag. In all these years I don’t think I had 50rds through it. When I purchased every cd on working on the 1911 from Wilson combat, Jerry k dvd and book, agi I honed my skills and actually built my norinco 1911 project. After having success building the norinco I remembered the SA I had that stove piped. I did purchase all the 1911 tools from brownells. I took the SA extractor and found out it had no tention to hold the fired case. It would extract it and let it drop. In ten minutes I had the SA problem fixed. I even flared the bottom of the extractor so it would guide the case rim into the chamber easier. I also machined in a disconnector ramp on the bottom of the slide. Don’t go deep with it.

To tune my extractor I used the fixture from brownells with the pull gage. I set the extractor tention to the 1911 specs. By trade I’m a class A CNC machine builder. Guns aren’t that hard to work on.

I did pick up a series 80 government model 1911@1 in nickel. She’s growing roots in the safe, it was $1,000.

Back in the early 90s my father in law bought a new Series 80. He had been the company armorer when he was in the Army in the 1950s and wanted a 1911 for old times sake. He had similar problems with the 1911. The fourth or fifth round would jam on every magazine. He had the pistol in several times for work. I think the smith eventually figured out the chamber was off center. My FIL eventually sold the 1911 out of frustration.

 

[lrrifleman]

My first handgun was a Colt MkIV Series 70 in 45. As mentioned, your extractor needs to be tuned! The grip panels on mine are identical to your's.

As mentioned by another poster, you need to maintain your pistol's timing. For both my Colt and my Springfield Armory Trophy Match, I need to swap out recoil springs when I change ammo.

200gr lead SWC uses a 10# spring
200gr TMJ SWC used a 14# spring
230gr hardball used a standard 16# spring

 

[NMPinNYC]

DROOLLLLLL...

 

[stansdds]

Nice score on a really nice Colt Series 70 Government model. A couple of things.
The failure to fully eject could be insufficient extractor tension, the extractor rotating within it's tunnel, or gummed up lubricant in the extractor tunnel. Gummy lube on the receiver and slide rail might also slow the slide just enough to keep it from ejecting the brass.

Second, odds are that the barrel bushing is the collet style. The collet bushing had four fingers that were supposed to apply even pressure to the barrel at lockup. Nice idea, but many of those bushings suffered broken fingers and that will tie up the pistol. I'd recommend fitting a solid barrel bushing, put the collet bushing in the box with the original magazine.

If you want some good quality, yet not really expensive magazines, check out Metalform and Mec-Gar. Stick with the 7 round capacity, stamped flat metal follower with the bump near the center of the follower.