Cracked Cyl wall - M629-2E

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Upon firing, one shell would not allow the others to eject. After removing with a dowel, we saw a small hairline crack in the cylinder wall. Should I send it back to S&W or use a local smith? Also, is this a common thing? I'm not aware of anyone having this problem, but I'm a novice.
 
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The cracked cylinder wall makes your gun UNSAFE to fire.

Call S&W with the serial number, and they will tell you if it is covered under the 20 year factory warranty.
 
That's how my 29-2 was when I bought it . You and I are lucky we didn't get a chunk in our heads . The folks on this forum lined me up with a cylinder and coached me through replacing it myself . It was a lot easier than overhauling my old Harley . On the other hand , even if you are not under a warranty , the factory is a good option .I sent a gun to S&W some time ago for little repair and some sight mods and the quality of work was as you would expect , perfect , and the price was far less than the local gun butchers would have charged .
 
What is the process for sending it back to S&W? Any special procedure I need to follow?
 
The 629-2E was introduced in 1989 as the first endurance upgraded 629. The 2E doesn't have them all since it was only the beginning of things to come in that package, but it will be covered under the lifetime warranty that starts with guns made in 1989 and all those since.

I'm curious. Where is the crack at on the cylinder? Did it start in the locking notch, and do you have any pictures?
 
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Call them and tell them what your problem is. They will issue a call tag to you, for UPS or one of the shipping companies. You will need to give them your serial number, so they can make sure it is covered under their lifetime warranty, so have it handy when you call.

S&W 1-800-331-0852
M-F 8-8
 
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What is the process for sending it back to S&W? Any special procedure I need to follow?

It has been a while but there is a procedure , I recommend you call customer service . With mine they wanted to look it over a bit then contact me in writing so there was no misunderstanding , before they started work . I hope you will be as pleased as I was . This has reminded me the reason i didn't send my 29-2 to them the last time was they said they did not have the cylinder for it . Good luck .
 
Just call Customer Service and explain the problem. They will send a UPS prepaid shipping label. Package it up and it will have to ship from a UPS Service Center.
 
I would be very interested in the exact location of that crack as well...also, photos would be appreciated.
 
I don't mean to take over this thread , but since this is a safety issue and I had the very same problem , Please understand . My crack was not detectable at all from the outside and was very hard to see . It started at the notch and went sideways IIRC . It was barely visible for less than a 1/16 if an inch . It would have been impossible to photograph without an arthroscope or something . My gun being old when I got it , was this way the first time I shot it . Somewhere, someone had told me if one is harder to remove , and it is the same chamber , you have got a crack even if you can't see it . It took a long time to actually see it , even when we knew where to look . I suspect the previous owner had shot some of his buddy's Ruger loads . Them boys is crazy .
 
BTRH; That is good info!!! I have a Smith 629 2 1/2" snubbie and the most I put through that gun is a 250 at 1000 fps...for what it is and what it does that is plenty. Never had a spent cartridge "hang" in the 629.... and, I try to be fastidious about giving my guns a close inspection after each shooting session, but, if that crack is barely visible it would pay to take a much closer look. For the next level up, my Super Blackhawk is loaded with the 250 @ 1250, and, I just bought a boat anchor (Redhawk) for anything beyond that. Most folks know that a Smith will handle standard factory 44 mag loads, but, doing +P research with a Smith is an invitation for trouble....and a good way to ruin a perfectly good gun. Also, I think this shows the need for shooters to give their guns a "very" close inspection every now and then...be they a Smith or not! Anyway, thanks for that info!!! I hope waltera47 can get us some photos of that problem...it will be a learning experience for those of us that have not experienced this issue.
 
According to my feeble eyes and a pretty high-powered hand held magnifier, the crack goes generally from front to back, in a thinner part of the cylinder wall. If the casing didn't expand too much during firing and jam in the cylinder, I wouldn't have thought to even look. Thanks for the help with this.
 

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