Crimps for Plated Bullets

keppelj

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I've loaded lots of plated wadcutters, but I've just started .44 hollows and FN and I'm unsure how much to crimp and keep full accuracy. What looks reasonable puts a .003 deep circular impression in the copper plating (measured with the bullet pulled out. I've also noticed that using an inertia puller, bullets using this same crimp come out of the casings fairly easily, say less than 10 whacks. I'm using the Dillon 550B taper crimp die. Any recommendation as to what's optimal for both accuracy and keeping the bullets in?
 
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I've loaded lots of plated wadcutters, but I've just started .44 hollows and FN and I'm unsure how much to crimp and keep full accuracy. What looks reasonable puts a .003 deep circular impression in the copper plating (measured with the bullet pulled out. I've also noticed that using an inertia puller, bullets using this same crimp come out of the casings fairly easily, say less than 10 whacks. I'm using the Dillon 550B taper crimp die. Any recommendation as to what's optimal for both accuracy and keeping the bullets in?
 
keppelj, I believe Rainier Ballistics recommend a taper crimp or slight roll crimp and also to keep velocities down to no more than 1,200 to 1,250 fps.

For me, and in my experience, while seating the bullet, I like to feel a good bit of resistance since the crimp, by itself, won't keep a plated bullet in place when shot in a gun with even a medium amount of recoil.

So, when you have a good amount of "bullet pull," you won't need a real heavy crimp.

You may still experience some bullet jump even with a heavy crimp if the bullet fits loosely in the case.
 
Texas Roots, thanks for this. I talked to Rainier this morning and they said they just want a fine ring in the copper plating. I really can't control the resistance to seating you mention since the bullet diameter and Dillon sizing dies are givens. I may need to back off on my crimps. It also sounded to me as though Rainier prefers the Lee factory crimp die. I can shoot my samples tomorrow and see if they stay in their cases and how accurate they are.
 
Plated bullets generally use lead load data.

As for crimps, you'll probably find that you get better cartridges by seating and crimping separately. I use a Lee FCD for the three pistol calibers I load regularly and am very happy with the results.
 
From Berry's webpage:
Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads.

From Ranier's webpage:
We, at Rainier Ballistics, recommend using lead bullet load data when loading our bullets. There is no need for adjustment when using lead bullet load data. Our bullets are jacketed using an electroplating process and are softer than traditionally jacketed bullets; hence the recommendation to use lead bullet load data. If you only have access to traditionally jacketed load data, we recommend reducing maximum charge by 10%. A roll or taper crimp may be used with our bullets; do not over crimp.
I load plated bullets in 45ACP only. I have used them with a firm taper crimp with wonderful results.
Here is a picture of a target set from our gallery PPC league.
PT1911-3.jpg
 
Not that it's relevant to the OP ......... Sierra plated .40's are listed as measuring .400 while berry's are listed as .401 ........ does that one thousandth of an inch make a big difference in minimum and maximum loads for the two? What load data I've looked at for the .40 so far listed the bullet diameter at .400 so I was wondering if the load data would also work with the .401 sized bullets.
 
I pretty much load plated bullets only in 38/.357, .40, 44 and 9mm.

Since I do not load full house loads in any of them a slight taper crimp is all that I need with Dillon dies.

Overcrimping too much will cause separation of the plating and less than ideal results to say the least. For the auto loaders crimp them so they feed reliably. For the revolvers crimp them so they chamber easily and no more.

I pull one every now and then to check. Perfect is supposed to be slight indentation from the crimp.
 
Thanks, guys, for your advice on crimps. I took Berrys and Rainiers 240 .44s with firm and slight crimps to the range last night and concluded that the slight crimp shot better groups. Shooting off bags isn't a very convincing test for me, however, so I think I'm headed for the range Saturday with my ransom rest. Crimps wasn't my only puzzlement!
 
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