Cutting hammer spur

[elvisjutsu]

So, if I cut off the hammer spur on my Model 10, is there anything special I need to do, or can I just lop it off and call it good. Is this going to present any problems?

 

[elvisjutsu]

So, if I cut off the hammer spur on my Model 10, is there anything special I need to do, or can I just lop it off and call it good. Is this going to present any problems?

 

[john traveler]

No special problems. Just deburr any sharp edges and away you go.

Some users also like to leave enough at the top (behind the firing pin slot)for a couple serrations. That makes it relatively easy to thumbcock the hammer for precision shooting.

 

[john traveler]

Almost forgot: SOME holsters use a safety strap or snap that relies on the hammer spur to secure the gun. Make sure that your holsters do not.

 

[arfmel]

I take the revolver apart so I can do the cutting without having metal shavings and abrasive junk get into the lockwork. I do a little housekeeping while it is apart, so everything is clean and slick when I put it back together.

 

[user]

And why would one wish to do that? I can imagine two reasons - first, reducing the weight at the outer edge of the hammer travel increases the velocity which can result in an exponential increase in kinetic energy - making unfired primers less of a possibility with reduced power springs; and second, it's less likely to get boogered up on clothing if you're using it as a pocket or purse gun. Now, as to point one, I've got a GP100 the hammer of which I'm thinking of drilling a hole in for just that purpose, and as to point two, I went out and bought a 649, a so-called shrouded hammer J frame. But why would one wish to butcher a model ten that way? I don't mean to criticize your decision to do so, I really am curious as to why you'd want to.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Check Out This Little Video from Larry Potterfield MIDWAY USA
Gunsmith - How to remove the hammer spur on a Smith & Wesson

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by user:
And why would one wish to do that?

b Same reason SW sells hammerless snubbies: can't snag in clothing when being drawn.

Originally posted by user:
first, reducing the weight at the outer edge of the hammer travel increases the velocity which can result in an exponential increase in kinetic energy - making unfired primers less of a possibility with reduced power springs;

that is also true

 

[kilogulf59]

There is also a compromise procedure, a semi-bob and dehorn. This was done to my both my daughters S&W M65s and is a great option. Approximately 1/3 of the hammer spur is removed and the heavy checkering, on the hammer flat, and sharp edges are softened.

Generally, compromises seem to not work well but, in this case, I feel it is the best move.

 

[elvisjutsu]

Why? if I had lots of disposeable income, I would just go out and buy another pistol. Since I am on the budget of a G.I., I need to be a touch more frugal with my money. That's not a complaint, that's just a fact.

Thanks for the link. It looks pretty easy.

 

[kilogulf59]

Elvis,

What does your income have to do with the procedure I offered as a recommendation?

If you find you would rather have it completely removed then do so, usually the semi-bob works.

 

[elvisjutsu]

I wasn't replying to you, I was replying to the question of "why would you want to do that". If I could blow money on guns willy-nilly, I would just get a hammerless or six and call it good. I can't do that, so I take what I have and improve on it for nothing bu some elbow grease.

I tried to get everything apart tonight, but I can't get the hammer out. I took off the sideplate and got the spring off of the hammer, but didn't know where to go from there. I think I am just going to do it w/the hammer in place.

 

[khoff2]

I have a 637 and need to do the same to my hammer. Could you post some pics when done?
THanks
K

 

[user]

Only as to my desire to lighten the top of the hammer to increase velocity - not a bob-job.

I took a fairly conservative approach, milling a short slot with a one-eighth inch solid carbide end mill at fairly slow speed. The metal that hammer's made of is waaaay too strong for high speed steel bits. So here's the pictures:
Before and after, using the 4" lower as "before" with the 6" upper that I modified as "after":

And assorted close-ups:

 

[bountyhunter]

On SW, the hammers and triggers are surface hardened about .006" deep. Once past that, they are fairly easy to machine.

The guns above are Rugers?

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by user:
Only as to my desire to lighten the top of the hammer to increase velocity - not a bob-job.

I took a fairly conservative approach, milling a short slot with a one-eighth inch solid carbide end mill at fairly slow speed. The metal that hammer's made of is waaaay too strong for high speed steel bits.

Yep, the Ruger hammers are really hard on cutting tools. And really heavy. I don't quite under stand why you didn't skeletonize the hammer while you had it in the mill. You could have removed a meaningfull amout of weight. You can make them pretty neat. If you put the hammer in the vise "on edge" you can mill out a bunch of material without it being obvious. Taking the center out of the spur and leaving the perimeter intact can be pretty nice, for instance.

 

[user]

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
...
The guns above are Rugers?

yup. GP100's.

 

[user]

Originally posted by tomcatt51:
...Yep, the Ruger hammers are really hard on cutting tools. And really heavy. I don't quite under stand why you didn't skeletonize the hammer while you had it in the mill. You could have removed a meaningfull amout of weight. You can make them pretty neat....

First, I figured it's sort of like a haircut - it's hard to get the metal back on if you take too much off, and I've never done that before. And secondly, I just got finished setting up my new Jet mill/drill, and got my home-made coolant squirter operational, and this was my first attempt at milling operations. So I figured a conservative approach is best. I'd be interested in any opinions about how I ought to proceed - I don't rightly know where the little spring goes into the hammer and didn't want to open up the pit it's stuck into from the other side, and didn't want to weaken the thing structurally. Just wanted to compensate slightly for a lighter weight Wolff hammer spring.

 

[Supermoto]

I used a Dremel with a Cut off wheel and then a sanding drum. I cut a good amount of weight off the hammer. The faster hammer speed definitely helps out with lighter trigger pull

 

[SW CQB 45]

I did my model 10-5 2" yearsssss ago.

I will post a pick soon.