How easy or difficult should it be to rotate the cylinder on my Model 36 over the cylinder stop in the opposite direction of normal firing direction in hammer down position? There is zero wear on the stop or either side of the stop notches. All edges on both parts are clean cut 90°. Thanks for you input.
Cylinder Rotation Off Stop
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Protocall_Design
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It should be locked in place and not rotate.
I was afraid of that. What would cause it to move over the stop with a small amount of pressure? Is the spring to weak?
Protocall_Design
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It may not be up high enough, hard to tell from here.
//https://i.imgur.com/UopSFyj.jpg
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Poorly fit cylinder stop or weak spring.
This revolver is 50 years old, and all indications show it hasn’t been shot much. Lock up is very tight, cylinder/forcing cone gap is .003-.004 pushed rearward, .002 pushed forward. Very light powder burn on face of cylinder. And as I mentioned before, no wear on the stop or notches. Could it have been in this condition from S&W? I can’t see a spring becoming weak without much use.
Protocall_Design
Member
Springs wear out from being cycled. Probably not the spring. Probably, the gun came that way from the factory. Out of tens of thousands or millions of anything, there will be some that have a problem of some kind.
These revolvers are a precision mechanism with many interacting parts. It only takes something that's a little bit off to make it not quite right. The miracle is that most of them are very well done.
These revolvers are a precision mechanism with many interacting parts. It only takes something that's a little bit off to make it not quite right. The miracle is that most of them are very well done.
None of the above, if you read my previous description of the components involved. Also, I’ve completely and carefully disassembled the lock work, inspected and cleaned each part before reassembly.
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The cylinder stop doesn't have to be worn...... just poorly fit from the get-go. Even back in the "good 'ole days", they made mistakes.
Which means I could bend it slightly, so it would engage the notch more to correct the condition? A new one and spring can be had from Midway for $13.50 plus shipping.
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When you say a "littel nudge", is the cylinder rubbing on the stop, or is it just stiff to rotate? When you took everything apart, did the cylinder stop move freely, possibly a burr on the stud? With the hammer out, does the trigger function freely with the rebound spring/slide, maybe the rebound is to short or gummed up and not causing the trigger to go fully forward and lock the cylinder. I've had some that were tough to rotate due to carbon buildup on the ejector rod causing the cylinder to rotate gummy. Just thoughts.
Along with the good advice provided above, and if the stop will not hold after the new OEM stop spring is installed, there is an adjustment step on the top of the cylinder stop, just behind the ball. Removal of material here will allow the stop to go slightly higher through the frame and further up into the cylinder slot. (you should also check the cylinder slots for debris if you haven't done so)
Adjusting the cylinder stop in this manner may solve the problem. Be sure the sideplate is installed when you check to confirm the stop is holding.
Before step adjustment double check for a bit of room (wink) between the top of the stop bevel, and the underside of the trigger hook. If there is no gauge here and you let the stop out by removing material from the step, the trigger may not fully reset.
Condition of the stop ball/cylinder slots (and the spring) is critical to the stop holding properly when at rest. Crowned, peened, or worn edges can cause the stop to cam out of the cylinder slots.
This is a K series cylinder stop, but the adjustment step on the J frame is in the same location......
If you decide to modify the cylinder stop, check for a bit of gauge here prior to the work......
Carter
Adjusting the cylinder stop in this manner may solve the problem. Be sure the sideplate is installed when you check to confirm the stop is holding.
Before step adjustment double check for a bit of room (wink) between the top of the stop bevel, and the underside of the trigger hook. If there is no gauge here and you let the stop out by removing material from the step, the trigger may not fully reset.
Condition of the stop ball/cylinder slots (and the spring) is critical to the stop holding properly when at rest. Crowned, peened, or worn edges can cause the stop to cam out of the cylinder slots.
This is a K series cylinder stop, but the adjustment step on the J frame is in the same location......
If you decide to modify the cylinder stop, check for a bit of gauge here prior to the work......
Carter
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One of my Model 36 locks up very nice in the correct (counter-clockwise) direction but will often spin past if it is rotated clockwise, as in pushing on the cylinder a bit off center when closing up the cylinder. It bothers me not at all. Perhaps it should, but it doesn't.
The only concern I would have is if it turned while unholstering in a critical situation, thereby preventing me from pulling the trigger. Of course, it would also hinder resale or trade value.
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Armorer951 is spot on in his assessment of the cause and correction. I have a model 37 that behaved exactly as you have stated. Being a retired armorer myself, the solution is made by slight filing the cylinder stop adjustment pad as indicated. My model 37 was purchased new by me and had the condition since it left the factory. Stuff like that happens on occasion. It shouldn't rotate as stated and needs to be corrected.
