cylinder stop for improved I frame

[teletech]

Produced 1951-52, the cylinder stop is small for the notches. I'm thinking the best solution is a new cylinder stop but I'm not sure where to get one. I've checked Ebay and Numrich to no avail and it's not the same part as the earlier I-frame.

I could TIG weld a little blob on the existing part and fit but I don't know to what degree they are heat-treated (not much since I filed/stoned a bolt stop on another gun to fit) but also it's a small piece and I don't want to risk turning a working but imperfect gun into a paperweight if something went wrong.

Since it's strictly shooter-grade and the accuracy was poor compared to my other I-frames I went ahead and re-cut the muzzle crown as it was pretty far from perpendicular from the bore. I also tightened the gas ring on the yolk which did tighten up the front of the cylinder a lot.endshake isn't bad so if I can fix this issue the gun will be somewhat tight at least. I'm excited to see what difference it makes at the range.

 

[lihpster]

Did you try Jack First Gunparts?

 

[teletech]

Did you try Jack First Gunparts?

Never heard of it, but I just dug through the site to no avail.
It's interesting how easy it is to get parts for almost every other model compared to the intermediate Is.

 

[Green Frog]

The problem with that intermediate model is its short production run and relative scarcity. I would contact our resident expert on the subject, Hondo44 and ask for his wise counsel if I were in your place.

Froggie

 

[Hondo44]

If the cyl locks up properly and doesn't jump out of the cyl notch when cocked rapidly, the cyl stop is functioning properly. You will not gain any accuracy by improving the stop's depth of engagement.

However, you don't need a new part to improve (raise the cyl stop). It's made to be re-fitted and easy to adjust with just a few file strokes. Inside the frame, just below and in front of the stop "ball" is a step (part of the cyl stop) that limits the upward travel of the ball. By filing the step, the ball can be raised.

See photos here in post #3:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...ment-full-notch-engagement.html#post141141863


Much, much easier than building up the ball with tig welding.


Best source for these I frame parts is:

Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many gun parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts

 

[teletech]

However, you don't need a new part to improve (raise the cyl stop). It's made to be re-fitted and easy to adjust with just a few file strokes. Inside the frame, just below and in front of the stop "ball" is a step (part of the cyl stop) that limits the upward travel of the ball. By filing the step, the ball can be raised.

See photos here in post #3:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...ment-full-notch-engagement.html#post141141863

Best source for these I frame parts is:

Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many gun parts.

Thanks for the link to the other thread, very much the sort of information I was looking for! I took the stop out of the frame and test-fit it in the cylinder notches and it was quite loose even when the ball was as deep as it would go. I considered peening the cylinder notches but since they seem pretty uniform I didn't want to risk having different timing for each charge hole by flattening the upset metal by hand. The ball on the stop is visibly rounded so I thought that would be the place to start as a way to stop the peening from getting worse and restore timing fidelity.
I tried GPC first but they are out of stock.

 

[Hondo44]

The rounding of the ball is easily reshaped to square it up. Recognize though that it's not flat on top but has a slightly angled surface.

Peening the edges of the cyl notches does not affect the timing so I always restore the edges. Rather then peen directly on the burrs, the best way is to use a flat strip of hard metal laid over the burrs and tapped with a small hammer until flush with the cyl surface. The flat side of a hardened screwdriver blade that's honed and polished flat works well. But the side edges of the blade that you use need to be rounded so they don't leave sharp edge marks on the cyl surface when the blade is tapped on with the hammer.

Also remember that a certain amount of rotational play in the cyl-to-ball fitment on a production gun is not only needed but essential for the barrel forcing cone to function properly for best accuracy.

Then proceed to file on the "step" to raise the ball.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Give Numrich a look see, they have many hard to find parts.

Smith and Wesson Revolver Parts for Sale

 

[teletech]

Give Numrich a look see, they have many hard to find parts.

Smith and Wesson Revolver Parts for Sale

They used to be my starting point for parts but they just don't have that much left these days. I do still check them every time, just in case.