DA pull not right after refinishing

lppd4

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
624
Reaction score
1,406
Location
Deer Park, Texas
Sent my model 28 off for a refinish job came back absolutely beautiful however in DA mode the hammer does not travel far enough back before it falls forward. It is readily apparent especially when compared to my other evolvers. The hammer nose barely clears the frame then goes forward. I also feel a bit of roughness in the action that was not there before it was refinished. SA pull is the same as it was. Anybody have a clue what could be causing this?
 
Register to hide this ad
You don't describe the type of finish that was applied or who did the work, but it sounds like the gun was not function tested before being returned. I think I'd be contacting the company that did the work.

Perhaps the internals were not re-assembled properly, or the gun or one or more parts were damaged during re-finishing. Have you tried checking and cleaning the internals? Could be just debris left behind by the re-finish process.
 
W/o looking could be several things..poss the double
action sear on the hammer could be hanging up..not releasing correctly ..among other things..
 
You don't describe the type of finish that was applied or who did the work, but it sounds like the gun was not function tested before being returned. I think I'd be contacting the company that did the work.

Perhaps the internals were not re-assembled properly, or the gun or one or more parts were damaged during re-finishing. Have you tried checking and cleaning the internals? Could be just debris left behind by the re-finish process.

The gun had a nickel/chrome with gold accents finish stripped off the gun and all parts and a matte blue finish applied to the frame with color case hardened trigger and hammer. I have disassembled the gun,cleaned everything up and it looks like all is in order. right up until the time you pull the trigger. I will contact the company but most likely will be making a trip to the local expert to see if it is a quick fix that I am over looking
 
Is there a DA sear even in the gun?
Maybe it was left out after the work on the hammer to case color it and the trigger.

No DA sear,,or sear not in position because the spring is missing or damaged..... The trigger continues it's motion,,cylinder revolves,,but hammer sets right back down again from that just slightly cocked position when the trigger returns forward..

I'm assuming from the desciption of the gun before the work was done had a plated trigger and hammer..and that the hammer (and trigger) were stripped of plating, polished then re-colored.

Any polishing of the hammer may play a role in this especially if the DA sear was left attached to the hammer during the process.
Polishing by use of a buffer can be quick but it can also damage lots of things including sharp defined edges. The front edge of the DA sear is angled just right for the trigger to pick it up and rotate the hammer.
If that Sear has been reshaped by polishing over the surfaces for any reason, that may have changed the angles and/or length of the tip.
There isn't a lot of difference betw an angle where the trigger picks up the sear and rotates the hammer with it,,,and an altered angle at the tip where the trigger mearly skips off of the tip and leaves the sear w/hammer behind.

The small DA sear is pinned to the front face of the trigger and has a tiny coil spring behind it.

Perhaps the sear and/or spring were not replaced back in the hammer after the CaseColor work was done.

...or maybe the DA sear with spring was left in the hammer when the plating was stripped and then the Case Coloring done.
If this is so and the case color is the real stuff,,the 1400+F needed to run the process would have annealed that tiny spring to worthlessness.

Some re-case color work to small parts is often done with coloring chemicals and not putting the parts thru the high heat oven char treatment.
Even so, stripping plating, then polishing and recoloring with a simple chemical process can churn up a lot of gunk that can get in behind that sear and cause problems if it wasn't removed during the work

The remains of an annealed spring if left in place would simply crumple upon the first couple of DA cycles. It's dead soft fine wire at that point.
That could leave the sear itself jammed in the 'in' position. The trigger would miss it upon DA cycling and leave the hammer only cocked a few degrees of rotation.


Dis-assemble the gun and see if the DA sear is even there on the front face of the hammer.
If it is, see if it pivots under spring pressure while in place and springs back out again freely.
Watch and see if the trigger engages the DA sear.

Just some guesses on my part of what could be happening just from the description of the condition of the orig gun finish and then the work done to it.

You should be able to see what is not working correctly when the action is slowly cycled w/the side plate off.
If you want to, remove the mainspring for cycling the action with the side plate off,,use finger pressure on the hammer spur to replace it.
Much easier to deal with when trying to hunt down a cycling issue. Plus the hammer and trigger pins aren't left unsupported under mainspring tension.
 
Last edited:
I've seen guns where nickel plating inside the opening for the hammer has made the opening too tight, plays havoc with operation. Try loosening your sideplate screws one turn and loosen the stock screw a turn, then thump it on something to knock the plate just a bit loose, then test.
 
Thanks for the suggestions from what I can tell the DA sear is in place. Does the trigger interface with the hammer with the DA sear and then transition to another part of the hammer during the firing stroke? the hammer starts back as intended but falls to soon. I am not sure if it has enough momentum to set off a primer. the release point is noticeably different than my other S&W revolvers. I did wonder if the stripping of the gold plating followed by the other work gave me some dimensional differences that render either my hammer or the trigger useless
 
If you are "in the know" just pop the Side Plate and see what's going on. Make sure everything was assembled correctly and that there is no goop or debris from refinishing inside.

If you are not confident or experienced in doing so, have a LGS do it for you. It should not be all that complicated to rectify. Send the bill to the refinisher if indeed the fault is his. You could also place a call to the refinisher and tell him what is going on. See what he says. Document and photograph any issues you find.
 
Just to update, the refinisher has offered to send a shipping label so that I can send the gun back to them for examination. I will try to get in to see my guy Friday or early next week. I do believe the issue is a simple one to correct. I have taken the side plate off and removed the internals cleaned it thoroughly, inspected all of the parts and I can not tell what the issue is. I am confident he can diagnose the problem and fix it quickly.
 
Thanks for the suggestions from what I can tell the DA sear is in place. Does the trigger interface with the hammer with the DA sear and then transition to another part of the hammer during the firing stroke? the hammer starts back as intended but falls to soon. I am not sure if it has enough momentum to set off a primer. the release point is noticeably different than my other S&W revolvers. I did wonder if the stripping of the gold plating followed by the other work gave me some dimensional differences that render either my hammer or the trigger useless

I think you got it; dimensional differences after removing plating. Thousandths of an inch make a difference in sear engagement. It'll probably need a new hammer fly (DA sear) at the least which creates the amount of hammer travel in DA. It's likely a bit too short now if it was plated. Or the plating in the pivot holes of the hammer and trigger or the pivot studs or both is now removed and adding slack to those parts engagement tolerance.
 
It sounds like the hammer and trigger were gold plated, then stripped and case hardened?


Does the trigger interface with the hammer with the DA sear and then transition to another part of the hammer during the firing stroke? the hammer starts back as intended but falls to soon.
Yes, it does. The sear lifts the hammer initially, but then there is a transition to a tiny tab on the back of the trigger that pushes up on the very toe of the hammer. Either your trigger or your hammer, or both, are worn or damaged by polishing or stripping to the point that this is not occurring. You need a trigger, or hammer, or both. If you have gone this far, I'd say simply replace both. ;)
 
Mystery solved as mentioned above the DA sear was too short. Now the mystery lies in how did a short DA sear end up in my gun? parts mixup/ sear from another gun installed onto my hammer, maybe I got someone else's hammer. The important thing is that the gun is fixed and looks awesome
 
Back
Top