De-Horning Hammer

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NO WAY - Have at it, I would get another hammer and bobb it and keep the one that came in it. Change the sear to the new hammer and should be ready to go.
 
Clipping the hammer spur actually increases striking energy, as wierd as that sounds. Hammers are well about optimal mass for the tradeoff of velocity and mass, and reducing hammer mass will nearly always increase strike energy (because energy is proportional to velocity squared). You get more whack making a slightly lighter mass go faster.
 
I did this to my model 13 with no problems. As you say, parts for the model 12 are more difficult to come by so I would probably leave that alone if I couldn't locate a spare hammer.
 
I do this with almost all my guns. Never had a problem. I did have light primer strikes on a 637 that I cut, but going back to a factory spring fixed that. (mind you, I never had a failure to fire in that gun, just a few light dimples in fired cases.)
steve
 
The old myth about hammer-bobbing causing misfires got started because so many revolvers received lightened mainsprings or had strain screws shortened or backed out, at the same time the hammer was bobbed. Bobbing will NOT cause light strikes, in and of itself. As previous posters noted, if all else remains the same, the lighter hammer will move faster and hit harder.
 
Take a regular hammer and have it cut down and bobb at the same time, how much thinner is it, I don't remember? If it isn't much, you can cut the spur off and lap it on a flat surface on each side and work it down. Mike it and take the same amount off each side.
 
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