Deck stain query

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Over the next several months, I'll be cleaning and fixing around the homestead with an eye to eventual sale. Last summer, I had a bunch of rotted boards replaced on the deck, and the whole deck needs to be re-stained. Found in the garage a nearly-full 5 gal. can of Olympic Elite deck stain--having been left in the garage, there is no doubt that it has been frozen and thawed several times. My limited understanding is that having been frozen makes it useless for its original intended purpose. If that is correct I will need to buy new. Query: Does rhe old bucket of stain have any potential use at all? Can I use it as a primer for the new coat? Is it considered a hazmat? Local trash haulers are very firm about refusing to take old cans of paint.

Suggestions will be appreciated.
 
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If the contents of the can have separated, are chunky, have discolored portions, flecks, or otherwise have lost the original homogenization then I'd be wary of applying it.

On the other hand if, after a thorough shake/mix, the consistency and color look okay then I would wager it's better than no protection at all by a large margin. Go ahead an apply it - perhaps to a test section not in common or plain sight to see how it dries, looks, and performs. Even if you get reduced protection, less years/months, it may still be worth applying as this stuff is not exactly cheap.

I routinely do several decks and railings annually between the ranch cabin and here at the house in town. My preferred stain/preservative brand is Behr from Home Depot and I like the middle of the three grades they sell and not their "top of the line." I know I've applied some that had been subject to freezing temps and it performed fine. I get about three years per application which, for my manner of thinking and in the relentless Texas sun, is pretty good.

Good luck on your project.

Bryan
 
I believe that Olympic Elite is an oil based stain. If so, it will not freeze, and being in Illinois inside a garage I would guess it still should be OK. At low temperatures, it may separate, so check what is on the bottom of the bucket? If it is a soft layer, a power paint mixer will quickly mix it. All bets are off if it is latex. A new 5 gallon bucket will cost $150 or more. I prefer oil stains for decks since they seem to penetrate better than latex and last longer.
 
Most every latex paint that's froze and gone bad that I've dealt with in 50 plus years in the paint business has stunk to high heaven when the top was removed after the winter. If you not knocked out by the odor when you pop the top put the mixer to it.
Oil won't freeze. They can get real thick. Thinner will help it work. The problem with oil stains are they fade much faster than latex as well as mildew worse than waterbased. Can't put the good mildewcides in paint anymore. With oil stain I sure would want to see the words, "for decks" or similar on it. Some oil stains made for fences or siding are too soft to walk on.

I have waterbased on my deck, if you want it to penetrate add an extender like Floetrol to it.
 
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Related question: I'm replacing my deck boards, the lumber is pressure treated. I know the boards are gong to need to fully dry first, but when should the first coat of preventive gunk go on?
 
Related question: I'm replacing my deck boards, the lumber is pressure treated. I know the boards are gong to need to fully dry first, but when should the first coat of preventive gunk go on?


The treated lumber folks say 3 months. If you need to do it quicker sprinkle some water on the boards and see if it beads. If it does pressure wash it but as long as it beads water it won't hold paint.

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I would definitely NOT use old stain, varnish or paint kept in a garage that has gone through a freeze/thaw cycle!!!! If it is used and doesn't cure properly, not only would you have wasted you time applying it - you will have to remove it (a huge pain in the butt) and then reapply another coat anyway. Don't be pennywise and pound foolish - do it right with new product.
 
Let us not forget that the OP is selling the house over the next several months. As I said, if it is oil based, mix it and stain some scrap wood and leave it weather. If it cures and resists abrasion, you are good to go. Personally, I believe deck staining is a job that never ends, requiring reapplication over and over. Plastic composite decks are the ticket for those not selling soon. I have had mine for 14 years and only power wash it every spring. It still looks like new.

Our shooting club has a large treated wood deck that sat as original for years. Some members wanted to stain it, so power washed it, let is dry, applied stain and less than 2 years later it started peeling and now needs to be redone. It will be a constant maintenance issue from now on. Generally, pressure treated wood can last anywhere from 20-30 years without stain on an elevated deck, so I still believe we made a mistake staining it in the first place, now some say we have to treat it every year??
 
I've used oil based stains and paint that once stirred and in one case filtered is good for years. I did my cedar sided double trailer and deck with "redwood" oil base that was three years old, no problems. I wondered how to put it on and an old timer asked me if I had a garden sprayer, sure...worked like a charm. That clear cedar siding and my redwood deck sucked up nearly 10 gallons of that stuff. I applied it with a mild wind in my face, my face felt a little funny. My wife came around the corner while I was up the ladder working on the eaves and started laughing, I mentioned that this was her idea and she sobered up and said "You could pass for black." It was the worst case of "red/black face" you ever seen...didn't wash off, I resorted to wiping off with an old towel soaked in mineral spirits...that tingled, got all squeaky clean. The garden sprayer did work great, just stay out of a head wind.
 
I looked at the composite deck boards and nearly needed EMTs. Went with wood. HOWEVER, after finding that the natural boards aren't necessarily straight and the same width, I'm rather sorry I didn't bit that particular bullet. But, damn, the prices.
 
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