dent on bolt
- Thread starter DavisN4
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CPTBeaker
Member
That's where the bolt hits the hammer when the bolt moves rearward (to re cock the hammer).
It's completely normal.
It's completely normal.
Gopher Slayer
Member
Normal, but BS if you ask me. None of my other semi-auto bolts are wearing like that, and they all have several thousand more rounds down the pipe. It keeps getting worse and it isn't wearing evenly. I'll take some pics of mine later.
Majorlk
Member
Mine is not like that, but I haven't been running the face of the hammer and that part of the bolt dry. I have Tetra lube on both surfaces to reduce friction.
It's possible the bolt came that way from the factory.
It's possible the bolt came that way from the factory.
CPTBeaker
Member
The best thing about Ruger is that if something fails, they will make it right. Keep shooting it and don't worry about it. If it worrys you, call them up.
CPTBeaker
Member
StlBluesFan72
Member
Yeah I have close to 6000 through mine and it doesnt look like that. I also put a tiny amount of gun butter on the hammer face.
photoracer
Member
Any blowback action rimfire in which the bolt in recoil resets the hammer is going to wear the hammer face and the bottom lower part of the bolt regardless of what anyone thinks. Polish the contact points to make the action work smoother. My AR15-22 and Rem 597 show exactly the same wear because they work exactly the same way. Once you get several thousand rounds through them it will just look polished anyway.
Gopher Slayer
Member
Well yeah, that's pretty obvious. There's a difference between two surfaces mating and two surfaces distorting.
Gopher Slayer
Member
Here's mine. 
It's never been shot dry. I noticed this after my first time shooting her.
[/IMG]
It's never been shot dry. I noticed this after my first time shooting her.
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JaPes
Member
Send a pic of your bolt to S&W customer service and see what they have to say. Get the definitive answer from the mothership.
Mine has 3000 rounds, shows a little bit of wear. Slight differences in heat treat from lot to lot could provide for conditions to allow some wear.
Two steel parts slamming together thousands of times....the steel cannot be too hard otherwise it will be brittle, too soft and it will deform.
IMO, it would be better for the bolt to be softer ( sacrificial ) to the trigger assembly. The bolt can be replaced in seconds. The trigger, not so easy to replace quickly.
I say, as long as the rifle fires reliably, don't worry about it.
Two steel parts slamming together thousands of times....the steel cannot be too hard otherwise it will be brittle, too soft and it will deform.
IMO, it would be better for the bolt to be softer ( sacrificial ) to the trigger assembly. The bolt can be replaced in seconds. The trigger, not so easy to replace quickly.
I say, as long as the rifle fires reliably, don't worry about it.
photobiker
Member
Interesting topic. I checked my bolt and it is worn similarly to Davis. I have shot maybe 1500 rounds through my gun. I agree with photoracer. Unless both materials are of the same hardness the softer will show wear. What I find interesting is that mine, Davis and Slayer are worn unevenly causing an exaggerated wear on one side meaning that that the bolt is not coming straight back, unlikely, or the trigger is not sitting truly squarely in the assembly. For the people that have bolts that show no wear maybe their trigger is set squarely. My hammer shows more wear on one side that the other, shinier. I have switched to lighter springs but that should have no bearing what so ever.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
rraisley
Member
Mine is worn just a tiny bit, on the right as was the original poster's, but I've only put 525 rounds through my new MOE. I've now picked up some Tetra Gun Grease, and have thoroughly lubed this area as well as the area of the hammer that it contacts.
I originally thought the hammer was aluminum (looks like anodized to me), but both it and the slide are steel. Not very hard, on the slide, if it's wearing already. Hopefully, the grease will help. I'll keep any eye on it.
As to what would wear first, the slide contact area is very small, all right at the corner. The hammer contact is sliding over quite a bit of its length, so while the hammer will probably polish a bit as time goes on, it's the slide that will wear more. If that's expected, I would have also expected a bit more radius on it, to distribute the wear, and/or harder material. But we have what we have.
The wear on Gopher Slayer's gun is more alarming: While more even, it appears, from the photo, to actually show material flow. I think I'd touch up or polish that out, and then really start greasing it. (That's the mechanical engineer in my, not the gun expert, so your mileage may vary.)
At least I can see no way that fairly excessive wear would affect the gun's operation. Any wear is well below any contact area in the breech, and won't affect the hammer cocking.
I originally thought the hammer was aluminum (looks like anodized to me), but both it and the slide are steel. Not very hard, on the slide, if it's wearing already. Hopefully, the grease will help. I'll keep any eye on it.
As to what would wear first, the slide contact area is very small, all right at the corner. The hammer contact is sliding over quite a bit of its length, so while the hammer will probably polish a bit as time goes on, it's the slide that will wear more. If that's expected, I would have also expected a bit more radius on it, to distribute the wear, and/or harder material. But we have what we have.
The wear on Gopher Slayer's gun is more alarming: While more even, it appears, from the photo, to actually show material flow. I think I'd touch up or polish that out, and then really start greasing it. (That's the mechanical engineer in my, not the gun expert, so your mileage may vary.)
At least I can see no way that fairly excessive wear would affect the gun's operation. Any wear is well below any contact area in the breech, and won't affect the hammer cocking.
Ghost_Soldier
Member
Here's mine.
It's never been shot dry. I noticed this after my first time shooting her.
[/IMG]
I have around 9,000 rounds through mine and it looks just like this 1. It still functions properly and when I have a fail to fire its usually just the primer and will fire the 2nd time if I reload it in the mag.
CPTBeaker
Member
While not desirable, this is not completely uncommon and happens with other weapons also. Like Doug B said, don't worry about it. If something fails, S&W will send a replacement part.
That being said, I don't like the design. I think this area should have a taper or larger break on this edge. It's common on a 1911 for example to put a radius on the bottom of the firing pin stop to ease the contact between the slide and hammer to reduce the force needed to cock the hammer, (and the bolt carrier on an AR is tapered as well).
That being said, I don't like the design. I think this area should have a taper or larger break on this edge. It's common on a 1911 for example to put a radius on the bottom of the firing pin stop to ease the contact between the slide and hammer to reduce the force needed to cock the hammer, (and the bolt carrier on an AR is tapered as well).
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