Disabling lock: remove all or just the flag?

OHIOUP

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I am sure this has been discussed ad infinitum, but any opinions would be welcome. When removing the lock, is it enough to simply remove the "flag" with the stud or should the entire lock assembly be removed?
 
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I am sure this has been discussed ad infinitum, but any opinions would be welcome. When removing the lock, is it enough to simply remove the "flag" with the stud or should the entire lock assembly be removed?
 
I've already watched the video. How to remove the lock is not my question. How much of the lock needs to be removed is my question. I'd prefer not to have an open hole on the frame. Will leaving the remainder of the lock mechanism in the frame be OK? This question was asked in the thread where the video was introduced. I believe only one person posted an opinion about this. I am hoping to hear more opinions.
 
I wouldn't, I would just cut the little post off on the flag and put it back together. If you remove the flag, then the other parts can fall out into the action. MY TWO CENTS!!!!!
 
Originally posted by OHIOUP:
I am sure this has been discussed ad infinitum, but any opinions would be welcome. When removing the lock, is it enough to simply remove the "flag" with the stud or should the entire lock assembly be removed?

I discussed this with a performance center guy at the S&W display at the SHOT Show and told him about the video. He indicated that if you just remove the flag there is a possibility that the remaining parts can become dislodged and drop down and tie up the action. Based on my conversation with him, I would either remove the whole thing and leave the hole exposed or I would grind off the stud and replace the flag in the frame. I definitely would NOT follow the advice on the video that is mentioned.
 
Just take off the flag and store it away. The rest of the parts ain't going anywhere.

If you grind off the stud from the flag be sure you have another one. S&W is NOT selling them so the only way to get another flag is to send the gun in.

There is no liability to you using a de-locked revolver for self defense, as it is only a storage lock. But there is a good chance of liability coming back to you if you sell a gun with a disabled lock, particularly if the flag shows up saying "LOCKED" but the gun really is not.

If you sell the gun, you really should set everything back the way it was.
 
I'd have to agree, I simply removed the flags from both my 325 and 329PD's....the rest of the locking mechanism hasn't gone anywhere.
 
OHIOUP - I would have to agree 100% with what Shawn McCarver wrote. After watching the video, I removed the flag in my 642 and noticed the little blue spring was coming off of the shaft of the fork and was bulging out of the channel on the right side. If you read my post in the video thread then you know I was really surprised how easily the spring and the rest of the parts came out. My internal lock was in the process of failing and I have not yet fired the gun - just dryfire with snapcaps. My take on this is to either grind the nub off the flag and put it back in, or, remove all of the lock parts completely. Removing just the flag makes the rest of the lock parts more likely to fail and jam up the gun.
 
I removed the entire lock...I believe this is the right way to do it...no "doubts" when its all gone. I also made a "kit" to plug the hole in the frame, and the space left by the flag. Go to: Gunsmithing section and read "Flat Tops IL fix...photos and all".
 
Here's a couple that have the lock removed.
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OK, OK just a little humor.
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I only have one revolver with the IL, but unfortunately, it's my EDC. After a lot of thought and research, I decided to remove the lock. I removed the whole lock mechanism and put it in a baggie with the key. I don't mind the holes in the side too much, and when I do, I consider the peace of mind I have now that the lock is gone.

Best of luck,

Dave
 
I did mine just like in the video leaving the keyhole part in place. I filled the space where the key fits into the keyhole by pushing a small red plastic straw on to the pin in the center of the keyhole and trimming it flush.
That will prevent anyone from mistakenly using the lock and expecting the gun to be in locked mode.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm still wishy-washy about how to deal with the lock. Grinding off the stud and leaving the flag in place seems the most likely for me, but I'd probably want to get a replacement flag in case I sold the gun and that's a hassle. Removing just the flag seems like it would be OK, the hammer ought to hold remaining parts in place but I've stared at that little spring and I didn't like the way it stared back at me when the hammer was cocked so removing everything seems a better choice than leaving lock parts that could possibly duplicate the original fear of failure to function. The most expedient plan is to remove everything and get used to the hole. I don't have the skills to replicate flat top's hole plugging solution. Hmmmmm. I have gone back and done some reading of previous threads on the subject. Sorry to clutter up the forum with the same old same old...and thanks again for your patient responses.
 
OHIOUP, when you remove the flag you also have to remove its return spring. The only other spring in the lock is the tumbler's plunger spring and that is not coming out on its own.

I've looked at the design of this lock in my guns quite closely and the flag plays no part in keeping the tumbler parts in the gun.
 
If your crafty, you can remove the lock as per the video, then use the mod by FlatTop to fill the hole with a plug.. (See the link in the original "video" thread, and also the seperate "FlatTop's remove the lock mod" thread.. Not sure where the threads are after they decided to cut the forum up into 3 seperate forums, but a search should find them for ya.. Good luck!

note: I found the thread for ya.. Here's the link to the "plug mod" Have at it!
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I think Wyatt's right. The flag only touches the other parts along its edge - if the other parts are coming out, the flag isn't going to do anything to stop them.

If you look at the lock cylinder, fork, and fork spring, they all appear to be interlocked together and with the frame so that their accidental removal would not be very probable. That, plus the fact that the hammer interferes with their removal, makes it seem likely that removal of the flag only is an acceptable way to disable the lock. Keep in mind that the lock cylinder and fork have to be properly aligned, or they will come apart easily. I wonder how many of the "parts falling out" examples have been caused by this.

Still, if as Justin Wilson called it, you are a "safety man" (wears both belt and suspenders), take all the parts out. Your choice.

Buck
 
ladder13 (Mike)----

MEANY MEANY MEANY!!!! I kept thinking, "Where are the holes?"
 
OK, Please forgive me for I know not what I have done... (Please do not banish me for this heresy?) Honest, it was so inexpensive I could not resist. I bought a used Model 82 Tarus. My first Taurus ever. (I have not forsaken my S&W fetish, it was just so tempting....
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) Are there instructions similar to remove the (slightly) more involved Taurus Internal lock?
 
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