"Do it yourself" coating?

[mod34]

All,

I have seen some folks list their projects where they used a "do it yourself" coating. May have been baked on. Anyone know of any products out there? I've got a fairly ratty M36 on the way and I want to make it a bit of a project. Thanks in advance!

 

[john traveler]

Brownell's and Midway both list sprayon gun finishes that require baking in an oven to cure the finish.

In my limited experience, Gun Kote gives a serviceable finish, but on a handgun, the sharp edges quickly wear through to the base metal. With that said, I have an FN-49 that I coated over 35 years ago, and the finish still looks like it was done just last week. I stripped the ordnance enamel finish off using hot lye and then applied naval jelly to prep the surface for the Gun Kote and it seems to have worked well.

 

[mod34]

John,
Thanks, sounds like a great start. I'll have to start with some before then after pics when it comes in.

 

[BigRich315]

In this line:

Does/will a countertop convection oven work well? It seems like a good option.

 

[john traveler]

"Does/will a countertop convection oven work well? It seems like a good option."

Yes, I am sure that will work fine. I used a regular oven for my FN-49 barreled action, and had to reverse it to bake both sides because it was too long to fit.

I don't know the chemical composition of the bake-on finishes, but they apparently need the oven heat to cure and harden the finish to final toughness.

I once visited a guy that manufactured custom pool cue sticks, and when asked about a rack he had, he explained that the rack was used to support sticks for a spray-on eurethane finish and infra red heat lamps were used to cure/harden the finish in a few seconds. The Gun Kote finishes probably work in a manner similar to automotive finishes in that exposure to heat at a pre-determined temperature kicks in a catalytic reaction that hardens/toughens the finish in seconds.

 

[Jaymor7]

I have used Brownell's baking laquer in a regular oven at 300 degrees F.
My experience is you get the best adhesion of the coating after sand blasting the surfaces. You have to mask critical surfaces to avoid affecting smoothness and tolerances. It will affect, for instance, head spacing on a rifle. Ask me how I know?

I have done a Remington 870, two Ak47's, an HK G3 and two enfields.

I was going to do a S&W Model 13 as a carry gun but ended up buying a SS S&W model 66.

 

[GatorFarmer]

There's always Duracoat which advertises that it avoids the need to bake, blast, etc Lauer Weaponry Online Order Center

Or you can get cans of spray paint at Walmart. The kind meant for grills will work.

Or Gander Mountain can Black T or Olive Drab T coat it for you for not much. You could also have it parkerized for not much.

 

[sabre]

IMHO, you won't improve your model 36 with a home done spray & bake finish. Adhesion will be poor and it will likely build up enough to impede reassembly & proper function.

 

[Sgt 127]

I tried a spray and bake finish from Brownells on a Keltec .32. It worked pretty well with just basic surface prep of Gray Scotchbrite pads and acetone as a cleaner.

I think if you really want it to stay on there, the surface needs to be roughed up. As others suggest, bead blasting is good. From what I have heard from industry people, the best surface prep possible is parkerizing.

 

[browntown]

For 159$, a company called ccr will refinish it for you. I can't personally vouch for them, but they're advertised and have good feedback on several gun forums I frequent. I'd go that route before baking in my oven. Heck, sometimes you can find a competent local gunsmith who can hottank reblue for even less than that.

CCR Firearm Refinishing

 

[n4zov]

If you decide to go with the home done finish, Brownell's has some online videos of the proper way to apply their finishes. They are worth watching.