Dremel Mototools and firearms, oh my!

Vulcan Bob

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Hi all, I was out to the range today to break in a new 1911 45 auto today and had a few break in bugs. One was an occasional round that wouldent slide under the extractor properly and then dident snap into the extractor groove, ok easy fix there been there and done that. The other one was that the bullet ogive on Winchester 230gr FMJ would bump the slide stop up and lock the slide open in mid string, very irritateing. Last time I ran into this one I figured that a few file strokes on the slide stop would fix things right up until I went one too many that resulted in a non functioning slide stop oh well a new one from Swenson fixed that and I learned a lesson. Now this time I tried a new approch to the problem, I seemed to remember that the old 1911's had a small dimple on the slide stop face that the plunger would rest in and restrain the slide stop from unwanted movement and this one did not. Ok out came the Dremel Mototool and I found a small ball end cutter just the right size and since the plunger had already marked the spot on the slide stop for the new dimple. Things went just fine and I soon had a nice little dimple in just the right spot, installed it and found that indeed it restrained the slide stop and now clicked up and down with nice snap. Now to check if an empty mag would work the slide stop and as you might expect no, no it did not. As a matter of fact it would have taken the rear leaf springs from a 1961 Chrysler New Yorker to move that slide stop out of that "little dimple"! Oh boy guess I will be calling Brownell's tomorrow morning. Well after a bit of thought out came the Mototool again and useing the very same ball end cutter I ran a groove out of the dimple in the proper direction that shallowed out as it went, viewed from the side it looks a bit like a rendition of Haley's comet done on an Etch- A- Scetch, polished the whole mess up and installed it for a function test. it still stiffend it's movement up a bit and it works properly with all my mags. Now to see if this fixed the problem or no! Yes I am smart enough to keep said mototool away from frames,slides and revolvers, I just seem to screw up small parts now and again! Thanks for looking and hope I did not bore y'all to tears.
 
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"Put down the Dremel Tool and step slowly away from it!"

I saw a Ruger Old Army yesterday that looked as if someone had done some damage to the grip frame while trying to polish the hammer with it still in the gun. Dremel or something similar, obviously. I told the young man who owned the gun that it was probably $100 worth of damage.
 
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I was gonna do some work on my beat up 4006, so I dug out the dremel, found all the parts and even ordered more bits. I put it to use and promptly put it away, never to be used again. Lesson learned.
 
The wife and I had been looking for a clean, used Browning T-Bolt .22 for her. We spotted one in a large gun shop's rack and asked to see it. Darn in Bubba Dremel Guy hadn't gone gonzo on the poor little rifle. Apparently Bubba was trying to "machine" the Weaver style scope bases into pitcatinny style tacticool bases while the bases were still mounted on the rifle. Bubba slipped and deeply gouged the receiver and stock in at least a half dozen palaces. Worst of all, none of Bubba's attempted grooves in the bases were straight enough to use. Shame, as the rest of the rifle was basically 100%.
 
Yeah I've seen a few moto disasters as well. Being a hand held tool you do not have a lot of controll over the things. Thats why I never try home gunsmithing on anything (parts) that costs more than $25.00!
 
The Dremel (or other motor tool) can be a blessing or a curse for gun work. Used properly it aids in metal removal and shaping UP TO A POINT!

The best way that I've found to use my Dremel tool on firearm projects is to mark the change to the part (Sharpie, Dykem, etc), secure the part in a vice, attach the flex shaft to the Dremel tool, and carefully work up to the line or mark. Usually stopping shy of the mark.

Then the Dremel tool goes away and the properly chalked files come out.

It can help if used properly and carefully. However, when in doubt, "Just say no!"

David
 
Yeah, I looked at the 1911 fully throated barrel, and then looked at the stock barrel feed ramp and proclaimed, "I can do this." Got out the trusty Dremel.......uh, no. Never again.
 
I've had one for probably 50 years. Came in a metal box back then.
The handiest thing I've found for it is polishing the inside bow of trigger guards. Other than that, it's something that just doesn't fit into the scheme of things when trying to repair, build or finish firearms. Once in a while I use it to grind a tiny high spot off something that I just can't get at otherwise.

They have lead to a lot of business over the years though. I'd rate them right up there with a Black& Decker drill, Weaver 'scope mounts, cheap screw drivers, buffing wheels and DIY recoil pads.
 
Mine only gets used for removing the grooves from a serrated trigger (after said trigger has been removed from the gun), or with a really fine crayex tip polishing the feed ramp of a 1911. (Only had one 1911 that needed it polished).
 
Thank you for this thread. It reminded me that I needed to fix my Kermit chair.¹ One of the stainless cap screws on which the seat pivots had broken off flush in the side rail. The manufacturer guarantees the chair for life, and would fix it for free, but I have been putting it off just because I don't feel like packing up the chair and sending it in.

Getting the broken stub out involves slotting the end of the shaft with the cut-off wheel attachment so that a straight screwdriver can back it out.

I got the job done using only one of the very fragile cutting discs, and only cut a couple of little slots in the oak rail. They are invisible when the chair is assembled, and mean nothing in the big scheme of things, really. But I would not get that Dremel anywhere near one of my guns.











1. Kermit Chair Company | The Original Touring Chair
 
My most valuable single tool, and has been for over 40 years. Have used it on guns and everything else besides - it has gotten me out of more jams than I can count, and I don't remember ever messing anything up with it. Maybe my hands are steadier than everyone else's, but I don't think so.

I have four of them, can't resist them for $10 at a garage or estate sale. I bought a cheap tool set (not a Dremel) at Big Lots a few years back, mainly because of all of the dozens of different grinding wheels, cutting wheels, polishing fobs, and sanding drums that came with it, far cheaper than the same Dremel-made items.
 
I'd rather use the slower method of files and emory cloth for gun related work. This gives me time to think about what I'm screwing up while I'm still in action, instead of afterward.
 
A Dremel is just a tool, but it sure can speed up a job.............or ruin it faster. In the right hands it's fine, but some folks can screw up an anvil.
 
I compare it to a belt sander in the woodworking world. In competent hands, a very useful tool. In the hands of a novice, a disaster waiting to happen.
 
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