Anyone know where to find cylinder end shake shims for a Model 63? I recently purchased a 1977 vintage Model 63 and it has quite a bit of end shake. Brownells has the shims for some models, but I can't find any listing for a J frame rimfire. Thanks
End Shake Shims for Model 63?
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Anyone know where to find cylinder end shake shims for a Model 63? I recently purchased a 1977 vintage Model 63 and it has quite a bit of end shake. Brownells has the shims for some models, but I can't find any listing for a J frame rimfire. Thanks
Alk8944
US Veteran
Brownells has them. A J is a J is a J, caliber doesn't make any difference.
tomcatt51
Member
They're here: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...=CYLINDER%20BEARINGS
The j-frame centerfire shims won't work on rimfires. The i.d. of the cf shims are smaller and wont slide over the ejector star assembly. The o.d. is correct, though. It would be very difficult to ream out those thin shims for proper i.d.
Having a 34-1 and needing shims, here is what I did: I got the k-frame ones which had the proper i.d., but the o.d. was bigger. I took a BIC pen (the classic type that you see in hotels) and removed the writing end of it. I slid the shim over the ink tube on to the head and re-installed it back into the main tube and made sure it was centered and pressed tight. I took a piece of very fine emery cloth and stared rolling and sanding the o.d. of the shim. Make sure you keep rolling to make it an even circle. Don't push too hard, a light pass is all that's needed. Keep testing in your cylinder (you can leave it on the pen) till the fit just slides in and doesn't bind on the cylinder walls.
When finished, seperrate the pen pieces and check to make sure the shim is cylindrical. Lay the shim flat on the emery and rub both sides of the shim to remove any burrs.
Having a 34-1 and needing shims, here is what I did: I got the k-frame ones which had the proper i.d., but the o.d. was bigger. I took a BIC pen (the classic type that you see in hotels) and removed the writing end of it. I slid the shim over the ink tube on to the head and re-installed it back into the main tube and made sure it was centered and pressed tight. I took a piece of very fine emery cloth and stared rolling and sanding the o.d. of the shim. Make sure you keep rolling to make it an even circle. Don't push too hard, a light pass is all that's needed. Keep testing in your cylinder (you can leave it on the pen) till the fit just slides in and doesn't bind on the cylinder walls.
When finished, seperrate the pen pieces and check to make sure the shim is cylindrical. Lay the shim flat on the emery and rub both sides of the shim to remove any burrs.
Thanks, ViperR - I had just ordered the J frame shims and was able to change my order to the K frame size. I think I can reduce the outside diameter. If I need to, I can turn a mandrel on my lathe and get a good fit to make the sanding gig you described. Thanks again, Steve
tomcatt51
Member
Must be why they specify J frame centerfire. Didn't realize they were different. I've only worked on centerfire J frames.
I received the K frame shims today and reduced the outside diameter as suggester by ViperR. This worked great. I would recommend that anyone needing end shake shims for a rimfire J frame use this approach. Thanks again to ViperR for the "how to" suggestion. Steve
Hey scha,
Did you hone down the peened ring inside the cylinder from the end of the yolk contacting it? That's how endshake starts from the contact under recoil. My 34-1 had quite a bit and it had to be reamed flush. There is a sticky or a post on how to do this so endshake doesn't return or the cylinder binding up.
Did you hone down the peened ring inside the cylinder from the end of the yolk contacting it? That's how endshake starts from the contact under recoil. My 34-1 had quite a bit and it had to be reamed flush. There is a sticky or a post on how to do this so endshake doesn't return or the cylinder binding up.
