Ever have problems with 14# rebound spring?

[Thunderball]

I just finished with some kitchen table gunsmithing. I put in Wolff 14 pound return springs and factory power main springs in 3 of my revolvers. I also smoothed up the bottom and backsides of the rebound slide. Boy what difference it makes in the trigger pulls.

Have any of you had reliability problems with a 14 pound rebound spring?

 

[jbouwens]

The 14 pound spring seams to do the trick for all of my revolvers. I have gone down to an 11 pound spring to test how low can you go, but as you asked, the reliability was not there. I like the 14 pound spring in everything but my carry guns, I keep them stock- I just stone the non- essential parts and Flitz all the contact points. You want that trigger to reset and stay in contact with your finger as you move your finger forward so you never lose contact with the trigger. I love to shoot double action so I like the trigger to "be there".

 

[AzShooter]

14 sound right and is close to factory. I use 11 lb rebound springs for a lighter trigger pull.

Your trigger will return faster but you will have about 2 lbs more trigger pull. Not enough to worry about.

 

[tennexplorer]

I had one N-frame that didn't like it. It would reset fine with a 15 pound but was slow with a 14. I tend to stop at a 15 after that to allow for dirt and or cold weather operation. I believe the factory is an 18 pound.

 

[imashooter2]

I had a 12 pound in my 625 USPSA revolver (7 pound total DA pull). After I outran it a couple times in matches, I switched to a 14. No further problems. I run 14 in all my game guns now.

 

[handgunner356]

I use the 14# a lot, but had a few that needed a 15-16# for good return. I usually check by dry firing as fast as I can, and if it doesn't give a positive return on the trigger I go up till it does.

 

[tomcatt51]

Part of being able to use lighter rebound springs is to slightly "adjust" the ramps on the rebound slide and hammer that bring the hammer back at the end of the trigger return.

 

[Thunderball]

Please elaborate on the slide and hammer modifications. Is it covered in the Kuhnhaussen book?

 

[tomcatt51]

No, it's not mentioned. It's a matter of putting a bevel on the front corners of the ramps as they engage and slightly sloping the tops of the ramps. You have to be carefull, go too much and the DA sear comes forward too late. Watch how the ramps move the hammer back at the end of the trigger return with the sideplate off, with no rebound spring and the strain screw backed way off to not stress the pins. You're just making it move back a little more gently (less abrupt) giving a better trigger return with less rebound spring.

 

[AzShooter]

Get Jerry Miculeks video on action tuning and he shows how to do it without doing too much.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Putting that slight bevel on the rebound slide is a nice touch, I too learned it from watching the Jerry Miculek video..
Just pass the stone over it a couple of times..

 

[MR.G]

I use 11 or 12 lb in my guns and have never had a problem. They are kept clean and lubed.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Part of being able to use lighter rebound springs is to slightly "adjust" the ramps on the rebound slide and hammer that bring the hammer back at the end of the trigger return.

Do this and lightly break the bottom edges that drag on the frame.
Lightly remove all high spots on the frame & action parts(remove all drag, make stuff slide easier).
Add a few drops of gun oil like Breakfree.
If the 14LB won't return well, adjust the main by filing the strain screw or bending the main spring.