"Extras" for your Models 17s/617s

[Old No7]

Lots of posts here about the Model 17 and 617 series, that's great!

I know I need to get some "good leather" for my 6" 617, but with the Target Hammer I've added, a holster meant for the standard hammer 6" K/L just won't work... Had this same issue with a K/L holster with my 686-TH too... So...

Any good leather holsters recommended for a 6" 617 that will fit a Target Hammer?

Wonder if I just need to modify/lengthen the thumb-strap maybe...

In exchange for that info, and to open it up to other ideas or "toys" to add, here's my contributions to extras for these S&Ws...

Altamont Grips, aks "S&W stocks":

Bowen Custom, "Rough Country" Shallow Vee rear sight:

"Patridge/McGivern" style, Gold Bead front sight:
(homemade from a brass brad)

DS-10 Speed-Loaders & Loading Box:

Caution, these have been known to EAT 22s like there's no tomorrow!!!

Let's see your holsters and other accessories.

Tight groups.

Old No7

 

[Dave T]

This thread got me thinking. Does anyone make a loading block for the 6 shot K-frame 22s?

Dave

 

[Old No7]

Great news!

"DS-10" makes those too! The guy is great to deal with as well.

Here's the link...
Classic 6 & 8 shot loaders « DS-10-SPEED

Tight groups.

Old No7

 

[Stainz]

I prefer Ahrends retro targets in raw cocobolo finished in a homebrew oil finish and wax. My 'tired' eyes prefer the plinker's front sight over the OEM Patridge. I like the proper short height HiViz #SW617. I also like Dave's DS-10 Speedloader and baseplate - and his newer range box, too. Unseen are a lighter Wolff rebound spring and a standard Wolff leaf spring with a hardened SS Allen headed set screw, adjusted to no ftf's +1/2 turn, in place of the OEM strain screw, both yielding a great DA trigger.

The one accessory that a 617 shooter must have is ammo - lots of ammo. Good luck on finding that!

Stainz

 

[Dave T]

Thanks Old No7. Good to know.

Dave

 

[AveragEd]

My two no-dash 617s have Wolff spring kits and target triggers and hammers. The 4" gets shot much more than the 6", so it has a more-visible-for-old-eyes Millett rear sight in place of the original.

Although I have never bothered with the costly imported target ammo, I have tried about every domestic load in all of my 22LR handguns and rifles. All of them seem to shoot best with either Federal GameShok 38-grain copper-plated hollow-points or CCI MiniMag 40-grain copper-plated round-nose ammo. I always keep lots of it on hand but lucked out shortly after the buying craze started when I found 2,000 rounds of the CCI load at two local gun shops. Between that and about 1,000 rounds of the Federal load, I have enough to last for a while.

I don't think there is a nicer S&W revolver to shoot than a 17 or 617. Their only drawback is weight - having the smallest bore means having the thickest barrel walls and most weight of all the K-frames. That makes the 6" and 8-3/8" versions a little muzzle-heavy for many people, myself included. The 4" just seems to sit in your hand more comfortably.

Ed

 

[gr7070]

Stains has it (mostly) right.

Wolff full power main spring and a rebound spring. A set screw and loctite to maintain reliable firing.

Ahrends grips, though the factory rubber are nice shooting grips.

DS-10 (do not get a CCW brand) speedloader, loading block, and a handle.

FO (green of course) or gold bead front sight. I prefer SDM Super Sight. Then replace the terribly short rear sight blade with a decent one the same as the 686s, but get the all black blade.

Lots of Federal bulk ammo and Steel Challenge matches.

You'll have the best handgun and no more fun can possibly had!

 

[slickracer]

I needs to get some new grips..either Hogue rubber or set of nice Ahrends tactical finger groove. The factory rubber grips they are using lately are junk.

 

[03Fatboy]

Hey there Old No.7,

I just purchased from a forum member a bowen rear sight v notch model and am thinking about mounting it on my 4" 617. I also picked up from him a .250 sdm gold bead and red hi viz sight for a 617. I hope you don't mind a couple questions as Bowen website doesn't give much information on sight heights for the v notch and I'm trying to avoid costly purchases trying different front sight heights and a bunch of range trips to see what regulates.

I really like what you did with yours. Is your 617 a 4" barrel? Can you tell me the brass brads you used, so I can purchase if I go this route? Installation tips of the brads? Did you mount the brad in the stock front sight. I think the stock front site height is .162"? Did you have any issues sighting it in?

Thanks, as I'm trying to find what front height works properly with the Bowen rear V-sight using web searches and this forum to facilitate my installation. I contacted Bowen and as suspected, they suggest trial and error method with the front site but I'm trying to re-invent the wheel either.

Your input is appreciated. Thank You

 

[Old No7]

Hey there Old No.7,

I just purchased from a forum member a bowen rear sight v notch model and am thinking about mounting it on my 4" 617. I also picked up from him a .250 sdm gold bead and red hi viz sight for a 617. I hope you don't mind a couple questions as Bowen website doesn't give much information on sight heights for the v notch and I'm trying to avoid costly purchases trying different front sight heights and a bunch of range trips to see what regulates.

I really like what you did with yours. Is your 617 a 4" barrel?

Thanks for your kind comments.

Mine is a 6" 617. "After I bought the Bowen sight", I found out they make it in 2 heights; if I recall correctly, short is 0.350" and tall is 0.385". On mine, the rear sight is up almost all the way, with an almost 1/8" gap showing under the rear sight's base. That works OK, but looks a little funky. So I just ordered a "tall" version, and that will allow me to use the rear Vee with the base not raised up as much.

The front blade on my 686 is almost 1/16" taller than my 617's blade, so I will move the shorter Bowen RC Vee over to the 686 and then add a gold bead to that one too. Since the taller front "lowers the bullet" (aim), I don't think I'll have the issue with the raised base like I did on the 617.

Then, after I add matching grips to both, I'll have matching actions (both have had target triggers and hammers added) and sight pictures, and both are 6" models. I've got the actions smoothed up and almost the same too.

Can you tell me the brass brads you used, so I can purchase if I go this route? Installation tips of the brads? Did you mount the brad in the stock front sight. I think the stock front site height is .162"? Did you have any issues sighting it in?

Sure, I used #18 x 3/4" brass round-head brads that I found at a hardware store. I have a full set of "mini" drills, so I used my calipers to match the size I needed to drill. Yes, I did mount mine in the stock 617 blade. Getting it "dead center" was key, so I used an even smaller drill bit, chucked deep into my drill press to reduce the wobble, and then I marked and did the first hole carefully. (Measure or mark twice -- drill once!) Then I drilled it out to the final size, based on the size brad used. (The shafts of those cheap brads aren't perfect either, so I had to polish/file that smooth so it would easily enter the hole I drilled.)

I also chucked the brad in my drill press and used files to make the "head" (which would become the bead) the exact diameter and shape I wanted. You can see what I did in the pix above. Once the brad was done and the hole was ready, I put superglue on it and tapped it in. It's not going anywhere…

I sighted it in OK, but you can see the fix that I mentioned above, for the sight base height…

I plan to do one more Bowen RC Vee, adding one to my S&W Model 16. That one now has a 1/4" or so tall blade, and as an older-style Smith, I will have to order the "old style sight blank" from Bowen. And then drill it myself, to match the Model 16's hole spacing and special screw. But I'm thinking once I have both the short and tall Bowen Vees here to measure, I'll be better able to decide which height I need for this one.

Hope this help you out!

Tight groups!

Old No7

 

[AveragEd]

I know what you mean about thumb break holsters and target hammers - the two aren't compatible. But Lobo Gun Leather makes a nice one with a safety strap. I just bought a twin to the one in this photo from their website.

They can be made in different barrel lengths and they offer two kinds of lining, if you want a lined holster (protects the gun's finish). Mine was $82 with smooth leather lining and shipping.

Ed

 

[Old No7]

Now that's some nice leather!

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to check them out.

Tight groups.

Old No7

 

[03Fatboy]

Thanks for the input No. 7, much appreciated. Based on your input it appears the Bowen is taller than the stock height. I believe you we're shooting low and needed to raise the rear to compensate?

I suppose you could have also increased the height of your front partridge sight as well. I think I'm going to do some sort of measurable mock up with the original sight and Bowen sight installed to measure the difference. Once the difference is known, I'll add it to the front height and look for the correct height partridge front sight. I think this will do it or get me close, if I'm thinking correctly.

 

[Old No7]

This info is for a Marlin rifle, but the formula works for any rifle/handgun as long as you make the measurements right.

Hope this helps you with those sight-height calculations!

Old No7

From the excellent Skinner Sights website.

When you are unable to adjust the rear sight to work for your rifle because the rifle shoots high you will need a taller front sight. To eliminate the guesswork, you can calculate the additional height needed using the procedure below.

1. Shoot your rifle at a known range (say 50 yards). Note the distance you need the impact to change (say 6 inches lower).

2. Measure the sight radius of your rifle (22 inches on most Marlins).

3. The change needed is calculated by changing all measurements to inches then multiply the sight radius by the desired change in impact and divide that product by the range in inches.

4. The result is the additional height needed for the front sight. To get the height of the new front sight add the current height and the calculated number from (3).

Example:

I need to shoot 6 inches lower at 50 yards with my 1894, 44 Mag. With a 22 inch sight radius. My current front sight is .350" tall from the bottom of the dovetail to the top of the sight.

50 yards = 50X36=1800 inches

Desired height change is = 22 (sight radius)X6 (desired change)/1800(range)=.073 inches. My new front sight needs to be .350+.073 or .423 inches tall.

 

[03Fatboy]

I measured the Bowen and my stock sight yesterday. The Bowen is only .025" shorter than the stock sight. I will make a range trip tomorrow with hi viz dot front site which matches the stock height. I'm thinking this combination should work fine. More to come.

 

[03Fatboy]

I got to the range today and the rear sight was as low as it could go and it was shooting just a tad high at 10 to 15 yards. I will now try the next size partridge sight with a drilled brass brad or i will drill a recess and epoxy in a white dot. This should allow me to get the sight off the bottom and allow the adjustment I will need.

 

[TexasRider]

I cant add much but here is my best old school Heiser holster for my Model 17 No Dash. But unfortunately not with the 17 no dash in it . It is deep relief carved and with the rawhide lacing and with sight rests sewn into it. Heiser did some nice work in the day. I am not sure you can wear out a 17 ( or a 617 ), or a Heiser.

My plain old evertday 617 with its factory grips and all its box and factory paperwork. It is awaiting some new wood grips.