Factory Dud 10mm round!

m657

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Recently bought some 10mm newly loaded in new brass, 180 gr at gun show from dealer.

Have been getting to know the new pistol & the loads.

After about 200 down range I've established my 'usual working group' which isn't very satisfying: at 30' from the bench, was getting about 4" group, variable at that.

Starting to grumble, discovered rear sight of gun was loose in the notch and a pin was working out. While the mfg says they'll take care of it, a local 'smith got it back on tight & I return to next range session.

Group is slightly better, but then fire some of my own 165 gr Berrys plated reloads with 1100 fps recipe.

MUCH better groups, now about 2" for 8 shots, can actually move group around at will, sight still tight.

3rd range tip today, firing a couple mags of Factory 180s. One doesn't fire; primer has well struck indentation. Disassemble at home, unknown powder but absolutely zero indication primer had any ignition in it. Odd mistake by SOMEONE/NOT/ME, what's the occurrence of such?

Finished up with a couple boxes of my 165 with good results.
 
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The way you described the ammo, it sounds like some kind of commercial reloader who uses new components from time to time. If that's the case, I'd be leery of that guys reloads from now on.
 
Did the primer have it's 'anvil' in it?

Tomorrow I'll have opportunity to pull the primer to check that very thing.

I've had a surprising number of WLP the past few years in the original box, actually have a primer fall out during loading into primer tube.

What is especially annoying, is the 180g FMJ loads are disappointingly inaccurate even with a solid rear sight.

But I did get a good supply of reloadable 10mm brass with no little bumps in them.
 
Krap happens. Two years ago i took factory Blaser 45 to idpa nationals. At ammo check, they pull a round to weigh the bullet, no powder. It was the only one in the 250rds i took, but didnt give me much confidence. Cheaper bulk ammo doesnt have the same qc as higher end sd ammo.
 
I quit on those...

The way you described the ammo, it sounds like some kind of commercial reloader who uses new components from time to time. If that's the case, I'd be leery of that guys reloads from now on.

I realize that some outfits may be better now, but the first time I tried "Factory reloaded" ammo one would go off like a fart and the next like a cannon. I figured that the 'factory' was guy with a progressive loader in his garage.

I'm not sure what kind of ammo this was, but quality ammo will have a very infrequent dud and you can rely on it. Using cheap or unknown ammo you take your chances with quality, or whether it will even work.
 
I've had a round of 40 caliber Federal Champion that wouldn't fire. When I broke it down I found that the primer was missing the anvil. I also had a 250 count bulk pak of Remington UMC in 45 ACP that had two near squibs in it, one so week it only made it 30 feet downrange. Bullet ended up spinning on the range floor under the target. Stuff happens. Won't stop me from shooting either brand, I just pay attention and if something doesn't feel right I'll field strip the pistol right at the range bench to confirm the barrel is clear.

As for my own reloads I hand prime every single round and doing this allows me to look at every single primer for the anvil. I also charge 50 cases, tray them up, and then shine a penlight in every case in the tray to insure they all have powder and the powder level is even for the entire tray. Then I'll cap that tray with bullets and move on to charging the next tray. Someday I may manage to produce a dud or a squib because Stuff Happens, even when you are careful. However at this point I've managed to avoid this Stuff.

PS: reading these Forums has provided a valuable education on what can take place when Stuff Happens and has helped me greatly in adopting methods that should minimize the potential for a mistake. I would urge anyone considering reloading pay attention to the many tips that are so freely given.
 
I've been shooting since 1956 and have not yet experienced a dud factory round, except for .22LR, either civilian or military. Lucky I guess.

I have seen a number of duds where guys were using "factory new" but not a real factory, especially the bagged junk at the LGS and gun shows. Also the reman stuff.
 
I've been shooting since 1956 and have not yet experienced a dud factory round, except for .22LR, either civilian or military. Lucky I guess.

I have seen a number of duds where guys were using "factory new" but not a real factory, especially the bagged junk at the LGS and gun shows. Also the reman stuff.

Factory new ammo means just that, not remanuf stuff bought anywhere. Gun show reloaded ammo is like sleeping with a prostitute; never know what you are going to bring home with you.
 
Yeah, but there are factories and factories. For example, Freedom Munitions sells "factory new" as well as reman.
 
Appreciate the discussion.

First, although not a name-brand mfg co, this ammo is absolutely NEW brass never fired; new boolit; and mostly new powder & primers, eh? So this example can not be considered 'reman' stuff.

I did tear the dud apart. Power weight, yet unidentified, was 6.3 gr small shiney flakes of varying sizes; 180 g FMJ flat point .400 slug; anvil was in the primer.

No harm , no foul.

Years ago I splurged on some 45-70 factory ammo, big maker, got it home & found a NEW round with a dimpled primer. No smoke/flame/soot marks, all looked new. Unable to 'splain that one either. Still have it around somewhere as a curio.

re: "I hand prime every single round and doing this allows me to look at every single primer for the anvil." I dump mine primers in a flip tray and inspect them when loading into pick up tubes. Years ago got a run of anvil-less or cock-eye anvils in one particular lot. Some anvils would just fall out if you turned them over.

In any case, I'm pleased my owner-built 165gr 10mm rounds are performing more accurately than the 180 gr 'factory made' versions. At least the bowling pin match will give me a chance to try 'em out.
 
As mentioned...... stuff happens.

1. primer may have been contaminated
2. not seated enough
3. something inside the case............

I had a 12 Ga. not go off on a dove hunting trip......
found out that a dove feather some how went from my ammo pouch and was nesting in the bottom of the hull !!

Hello...............

Just be glad it was a dud and not a "Kaboom" !!
 
Yeah, but there are factories and factories. For example, Freedom Munitions sells "factory new" as well as reman.
Factory new would be virgin brass. I am not sure FM does that, but i dont buy much factory ammo. Never seen a contaminated primer in more than 300k rds loaded. I have found a primer with no anvil, No priming compund, no boom. The Blaser incident was a one time deal, but i know stuff happens.
 
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Recently bought some 10mm newly loaded in new brass, 180 gr at gun show from dealer.

Have been getting to know the new pistol & the loads.

After about 200 down range I've established my 'usual working group' which isn't very satisfying: at 30' from the bench, was getting about 4" group, variable at that.

Starting to grumble, discovered rear sight of gun was loose in the notch and a pin was working out. While the mfg says they'll take care of it, a local 'smith got it back on tight & I return to next range session.

Group is slightly better, but then fire some of my own 165 gr Berrys plated reloads with 1100 fps recipe.

MUCH better groups, now about 2" for 8 shots, can actually move group around at will, sight still tight.

3rd range tip today, firing a couple mags of Factory 180s. One doesn't fire; primer has well struck indentation. Disassemble at home, unknown powder but absolutely zero indication primer had any ignition in it. Odd mistake by SOMEONE/NOT/ME, what's the occurrence of such?

Finished up with a couple boxes of my 165 with good results.

Sounds like bad primer. If it's an isolated event, wouldn't worry about it too much.
S - - t Happens.
 
While I have heard of primers without a disc in years gone by, it was an extremely rare occurrence until more recently when we started getting an influx of primers from non US manufacturers. I personally refuse to use these primers, but others who load/reload for profit see increased profits in using these cheaper substitutes, and I suspect the off shore primers are responsible for the increase in reported failures of this nature.
 
I have had a fair amount of FTF on factory ammo of which many have been rimfire. Ride the roads and sometimes you have to pay a toll...
 
I have had a fair amount of FTF on factory ammo of which many have been rimfire. Ride the roads and sometimes you have to pay a toll...

Nature of the beast with rimfire, especially the cheap bulk stuff. Centerfire, pretty rare to not get a bang. The priming system is just more reliable.
 
While I have heard of primers without a disc in years gone by, it was an extremely rare occurrence until more recently when we started getting an influx of primers from non US manufacturers. I personally refuse to use these primers, but others who load/reload for profit see increased profits in using these cheaper substitutes, and I suspect the off shore primers are responsible for the increase in reported failures of this nature.

One reason I am not a fan of Wolf/Tula. They had a bad batch of small pistol back in the shortage & you could find as many as 10% with no anvil or compound. Just as well, Putin won't get my $$, buy CCI or Win or Fed, save an American job.
 
While anything is possible, it's very unlikely that any U. S.-made primers will be duds as they come from the factory. I have seen close-up the primer production lines at Winchester, Federal, and Remington, and the QC level is extremely high at all of them.
 

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