FBI 1076 Feed and 1911 PD problems.

[Nitrous SSC]

I went to call S&W today and get their opinions on what I should do but they are on vacation or something for the next 2 weeks.

Both problems happened same day after I hadn't shot in about a year, (so disappointed)

So, problem #1.

My FBI 1076 gun. I'm shooting once loaded (not once fired) ammo. "Top Brass" brass and FMJ bullets. I have cycled through about 300 of the 500 batch and I've used plenty of this companies 10mm before without any issues. Through my ownership I've had about 1000 rounds through it. The previous owner said he purchased it, shot it once at the range then it sat in his safe until I picked it up. What the gun is doing is not getting the fresh round in all the way. It will do it almost every shot. I have to give a palm slap to the back of the slide. My "assumption" is that my recoil spring could be shot. I've never changed it and I noticed also that day I could feel the gun "hit" more rather than smooth firm recoil. Safe bet this is the issue? Or something else? Breaks my heart. Also the gun didn't shoot worth a damn compared to my 1911, I was all over the damn paper. 10" group at just 25ft. Usually its on par.


Problem #2. 1911 PD 5". As always this thing is dead nuts accurate. I love the feel of this weapon and it shows in my shooting. It has had around 3k rounds through it with my ownership and I purchased the gun as a co-signment at Cabelas However.... It did something I've never had it do before, it was double/triple firing. At first I thought it was my grip. I mean a 1911 is a lot different than all the 3rd gen pistols I have. I focused on the fundamentals and it was still doing it. It didn't start doing the multiple shots until I was through about 100 rounds of ammo. The ammo is a reloaded round but I've seriously shot at least 1500 rounds of this companies stuff through my 1911 with no issues and in IDPA competitions. I checked the primers and they are all flush. Idea's?

1911 results at 25ft.

It was a goof off day so please don't rip my head off for the few "wild shots" and I think those were from when the damn thing went into burst mode.

P.S. on a positive note my carry gun 3913TSW Kicked *** like usual and at 25ft was putting them in a 6 inch group for 100 rounds.

 

[M29since14]

S&W is going to be skeptical of any ammunition not produced by one of the major U.S. manufacturers, and frankly, I don't blame them one bit. Your 1076 probably does need a new recoil spring, and while you are at it, you might as well replace the other springs too - at least the mainspring. Then, buy a box of decent quality U.S.-manufactured 10mms and give it another try. If your grip is consistent, and reasonable, the gun will probably be OK.

On your 1911 problem, my first thought is "dirty." Suggest you clean everything thoroughly, particularly sear/hammer/searspring/disconnector.

 

[scooter123]

I'll keep it simple.

On your 1076 you have nailed it, time to install a new recoil spring. While your doing that make sure to take the time to clean the chamber in your barrel so it's near spotless. I don't think a dirty chamber is your problem but you may as well eliminate that slight possibility while you're changing the recoil spring.

On your 1911 the most likely cause of your problem is the Sear Spring. If you've been tuning the trigger or had someone else do a bit of tuning they probably took too much bend out of the Left Side leaf, because what you are seeing is typical after a tuning that tried to take the trigger too light. BTW, these springs normally have 3 "leaves", left side powers the sear, center the disconnect and trigger weight, and right the grip safety. If you know what you are doing with a 1911 I would suggest that you add a bit more tension to the left leaf by bending it "into" the pistol. IF you don't feel comfortable doing something like this then take it into a local gunsmith who knows his way around the 1911, it's only about 10 minutes of work for someone who knows what they are doing.

Second possibility on your 1911 is a damaged sear. To be blunt you should have stopped shooting the first time it doubled or tripled. Not only is it highly illegal to shoot a modern firearm in this condition that sear bouncing out of engagement can damage either the Sear or the notch on the Hammer. If adding a bit of bend to the sear spring doesn't solve your problem you will need a new Hammer and Sear. If this is the case and your pistol as a series 70 1911 I would suggest you look into installing parts from Wilson Combat, they make first class parts for a 1911. Cost for the Bulletproof Sear and Hammer from Wilson Combat will be pretty close to 100 bucks. BTW, these parts may also work with a series 80 1911 but I just can't remember if they do, if you have a series 80 give Wilson Combat a call and ask. Note, series 70 means NO firing pin safety, series 80 means there is a firing pin safety in the slide.

 

[Mack]

With the 1076 make sure chamber is clean and mike the reloads ad the case mouth to make sure they are not oversized.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

I'm insanely picky with cleaning. After every range outing even its 10 rounds or 100. I field strip and thoroughly clean. I usually spend longer cleaning than I do shooting. (wife hates this, but what gun nut doesn't love the smell of #9. haha)

I only had the the 1911 go stupid mode 3 times. After the first time I thought it was a fluke and my grip was an issue. I haven't shot that gun in over a year and its like driving a manual vs an auto car. It didn't come back until about 20 rounds later. After that it went into the case. The range was PACKED and several folks were shooting full auto's so I'm pretty sure no one noticed. The guy next to me had standard and SD MP5 models.

I have never modified either of the guns other than a grip and front site change on my 1911. Never have I touched even the trigger screw. I REALLY want hogue's on the 1076 but I can't seem to find a set to even modify that fit the frame. My 1076 using a diagram I did do a full strip and reassemble a few years ago. My 1911 I also stripped down with the help of a friend that eats/sleeps/drinks 1911's. However he's not a fan of the S&W modifications to "their" 1911's and is having a hard time giving me advice on which components to take a peak at.

I would honestly prefer to send them to S&W for work before I screw with changing/modifying anything. I will take a look at that Wilson Combat stuff. Their stuff looks to be top notch. How do I know what series I have?

When I get some time after work today I will mic the rounds and see if they are within spec and get back to you guys. I've just shot A TON of this stuff and never had issues.

Thanks for the input guys. Its very positive and descriptive. I'll keep you guys updated with my findings.

 

[Fastbolt]

I'm in agreement with the other folks who suggested you first replace the recoil (and mag) springs on the 1076.

Then ... buy some good quality ammunition made by one of the major American manufacturers. If you want to help eliminate potential ammunition issues, you actually need to eliminate the potential issues (meaning, use major brand ammo ).

The SW1911? I've seen that happen when guys have run their 1911's too long without inspecting the sear spring. It can lose tension over time & use.

Granted, the gun needs to be examined by a qualified technician to make sure nothing else is going on (it's under warranty, right? ). If it was happening to my SW1911, and I wasn't an armorer, I'd opt for the free warranty inspection & adjustment/parts replacement, myself.

Just my thoughts.

The only times I've seen some different 10mm's act up during quals was when the springs were weakened, or when "mystery ammo" had used by a shooter (who sheepishly admitted he'd bought it at a bargain price at a gunshow).

 

[M29since14]

Unless your S&W 1911 is one of the E-series guns, it has a firing pin safety.

If you have not modified the gun in any way, and you have kept it clean, send it back to S&W and let them fix it. Period. The gun should not "double" and if it does, mostly likely (in my experience) the gun has suffered either hammer or sear damage, or both.

Your gun may have accidentally gotten a part that was not properly heat-treated. I have had that happen with 1911 sears on a couple occasions. Quality can vary a great deal from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Recently, I bought a Cylinder & Slide hammer and sear for my Browning High-Power. They had individually hardness tested both components and recorded it on a slip of paper enclosed with the parts. Shows good attention to detail with what are obviously critical parts. I realize S&W cannot do that with a mass produced firearm, but I am certain they will want to correct your pistol to their standards.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

I love the fact that the weekend it happens, that Monday S&W goes on vacation for 2 weeks. Just my luck eh? Hopefully they will warranty both guns. I know they have a soft spot for 1076's.

As for my 1911, To be honest, I have no idea the total round count through it as I purchased it used with no ability to talk with the previous owner. It does have slight holster wear along the barrel end of the slide. Other than that its been an excellent gun.

The hard part about shooting my 10mm is that factory ammo is insanely expensive. (30$+ for 50 rounds) So I have reloaded some myself and done a few "gunshow" type ones. The company I did get them from had great reviews among the local IDPA guys. Some of them run more rounds through their guns in a week than I do in a year. My first batch of reloaded 10mm's were awesome. I can tell the gunshow ones are a little softer in power. Once I finish up this batch of 10mm's I'll be prepping the brass and reloading this winter. Then from that point I'll just by the brass myself.

Thanks again guys.

 

[StatesRightist]

I agree it's your spring on the 1076...I ordered aset of springs, which included both the recoil and firing pin spring from Wolff, they were around $22 bucks if I remember correctly. Check them out online.

 

[scooter123]

The cost of 10mm ammo is the reason why I chose the model 610 revolver when I just had to scratch that itch, with moon clips I can use either 10mm or 40 S&W.

Since you purchased your 1911 used odds are pretty good that a previous owner has been "tuning" on it. Over on a motocycle forum I belong to the phrase PO'd can either mean what you think it does or you've been suckered by a Previous Owner who knew just enough to create a mess for the next owner.

You've stated that you have a friend who lives and breathes 1911's so it's likely he knows his way around one. Get him to look over your shoulder while you learn how to work on this gun yourself. BTW, the 1911 is incredibly easy to work on, one of it's major advantages. To get the Sear Spring out you start by removing the mainspring housing, which is done by tapping out that pin at the bottom rear of the grip and then sliding the mainspring housing out. Next you remove the thumb safety. If it's not an Ambi Safety you can get that out by flipping the safety on and off while lifting up on it. If it is an Ambi Safety you'll learn why I just LOATHE ambi safeties. The right side safety lever is friction fit into the cross shaft attached to the left side safety lever and it's a HEAVY friction fit. You'll need some thin plastic that you can use to protect the frame while you VERY carefully pry the right side safety lever out of the cross shaft starting with a thin bladed knife and progressing to a screwdriver. You'll also want to alternate prying at the top and the bottom until you get it free. After that the left side will lift out by flipping the safety on and off. NOTE: as soon as that safety lever clears the detent plunger it's going to want to launch itself, so keep your finger positioned behind the safety lever to catch it. Once you have the thumb safety out the grip safety will lift right out. Right behind that you will find the Sear Spring which will also lift out. As I said earlier you'll want to bend the leaf on the left side INTO the pistol a bit more. Generally I'll position the center leaf on the edge of a table with the sear leaf over the table. A handy piece of paper and a pencil can give you a reference starting point. Add enough bend to take the leaf about 1/8 inch deeper into the gun. If that additional tension doesn't solve your problem it's likely you'll need a new Sear and Hammer. In that case I'd let the warranty take care of it unless you want to try out some Wilson Combat parts in your S&W.

Now one final note. Your 1911 is a series 80 as indicated by a prior post. Because of this thereis a bit more going on between the trigger and hammer than just the sear and disconnect. This make tuning to a light and crisp trigger more difficult and IMO it's a BAD IDEA to even attempt to take a series 80 below 4 lbs. Before you start you might want to ask a gunshop to measure the trigger weight on your pistol. If it's below 4 lbs. you'll want to add a bit more tension to the Center leaf on the Sear Spring.

Re-Assembly. That Sear spring will want to come out of position if all you do is breath wrong when your trying to position the grip safety. The solution for this is to slide the mainspring housing up just enough to cover the tab that positions the Sear Spring in the recess. Once you have the grip safety press in on the plunger for the thumb safety and insert the thumb safety into position with the hammer in the cocked position. Flip the thumb safety to the off position, press on the grip safety, and pull the trigger and push on the mainpring housing to power it int othe down position. Now you'll need a small screwdriver, nail, or punch to leverage the mainspring housing so the hole for the cross pin is lined up with the frame, then tap in the pin that retains the mainspring housing. Finally, if you have that infernal ambi safety use a pair of channel lock plyers and some old denim as padding to squeeze that right side safety lever into place.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

Thanks guys for the info I appreciate it greatly. I called S&W today and they are sending me a new recoil spring and guide rod for the 1076 and said if that doesn't fix it then the ramp will need to be re-polished. As for my 1911 I told her what it was doing and without a hesitation she told me to send it in and they will fix it under warranty.

Man I love this company!

 

[Nitrous SSC]

Just an update. My 1911 came back with a new rear sear and sear spring. Works great again.

After being on back order for 5 months the new recoil spring showed up for my FBI. Yea....It TOTALLY needed to be changed. It was night and day difference in length and tension. Now my 1076 is just as reliable as ever. Now if I can just get my shooting low/recoil reaction to go away when shooting it.

 

[M29since14]

Good news. At the risk of sounding ridiculous, the sear in the 1911 is a "critical" part. If the steel and heat treatment are not up to snuff things can easily go wrong and cause problems. There are a lot of companies making 1911 sears these days.