ProgressiveTruth
US Veteran
I have a question. Can my 640-1 J frame revolver be field stripped. If so how?
Field stripping
- Thread starter ProgressiveTruth
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Not in the sense that the word field stripping is used. That is for semi autos.
Why would you field strip a revolver.? That would be disassemble by removing the side plate, which there is no real reason to do,. You can remove one side screw and remove the cylinder.
Can they be disassembled? Yes.
Alpo
Member
I quite often take them down THIS FAR,for cleaning.
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/lu90aHmUUkg/hqdefault.jpg
All it involves is removing that little screw on the right side above the trigger.
That dingus over on the left side of the picture. Both of the protrusions have a tendency to get dry and/or powder fouled. Clean and lube them, and the holes they go in, and the gun works better.
But that's as far as I ever go with "field stripping".
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/lu90aHmUUkg/hqdefault.jpg
All it involves is removing that little screw on the right side above the trigger.
That dingus over on the left side of the picture. Both of the protrusions have a tendency to get dry and/or powder fouled. Clean and lube them, and the holes they go in, and the gun works better.
But that's as far as I ever go with "field stripping".
OP
ProgressiveTruth
US Veteran
Ok, because I hear you guys talking about field stripping your weapon and giving it a light oil. So I wanted to know. Thanks
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I usually remove the forward most screw on the right side of the side plate. This will allow the Yoke (Crane) to be removed and the Cylinder to be slid off for cleaning. I always flush out the Ejector Rod "tunnel" with Rig #2 or Remoil to remove any unburned powder, carbon and dirt. That keeps the Cylinder and ER working smoothly.
I do not like cleaning the Cylinder while attached to the gun as it tends to put stress on the yoke while pushing a Brass Brush back & forth and removing it allows a much better cleaning job to be done. Don't "Gorilla" tighten the screw!
That's about all that needs to be done to a revolver on a routine basis. If the gun has had thousands and thousands of rounds through it a complete disassembly might be in order for a thorough cleaning and lubrication but that is NOT something you would do in the field and certainly not on a routine basis.
I do not like cleaning the Cylinder while attached to the gun as it tends to put stress on the yoke while pushing a Brass Brush back & forth and removing it allows a much better cleaning job to be done. Don't "Gorilla" tighten the screw!
That's about all that needs to be done to a revolver on a routine basis. If the gun has had thousands and thousands of rounds through it a complete disassembly might be in order for a thorough cleaning and lubrication but that is NOT something you would do in the field and certainly not on a routine basis.
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The most important part is using the CORRECT screwdrivers.
Ones made for gun smithing, they are not the sameas regular drivers even good quality ones. They have a different bevel and will snap off before you strip the head of a screw (hopefully
)
Never pry the side plate off, just whack the area were the grips ar taken off with a piece of wood or end of plastic screwdriver.
The only thing that will fall out is the hammer block.
Here is Jerry Miculek doing a rebound spring change. Shows you how to take it apart. Funny also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9gn7zE5b3g
Ones made for gun smithing, they are not the sameas regular drivers even good quality ones. They have a different bevel and will snap off before you strip the head of a screw (hopefully
)Never pry the side plate off, just whack the area were the grips ar taken off with a piece of wood or end of plastic screwdriver.
The only thing that will fall out is the hammer block.
Here is Jerry Miculek doing a rebound spring change. Shows you how to take it apart. Funny also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9gn7zE5b3g
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