Final "Get the lead out" thread before purchase

m657

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From time to time there is an annoying residue from some oddball cast lead recipe in my handguns.

I'm past tired & frustrated with the various swabbing goo & chemical elixirs with brush to remove.

Perhaps I'm even more obsessed about getting the last little bit out.

In any case, I'm down to the Final Choice:

1) electronic rod/chemical remedy;

2) Ultrasound tank;

In a few cases, even the much touted Lewis Lead Removal system failed to work well.

Discussion/comments/recommendations on first-hand experience about "what works" appreciated.
 
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I've mentioned this before, but it will absolutely remove every last vestige of lead. Remove all oil and solvent from the bore and plug the forcing cone end of the barrel with a tight patch. Firmly fix the gun in a muzzle up position and pour the the bore full of liquid mercury. Leave it overnight. All the lead will be floating on top of the mercury in the form of a very fine powder. That powdered lead and mercury is hazardous to your health in just about every conceivable way, and the EPA will probably have a major stroke at this idea, however, it does remove all the lead!
 
re: "That powdered lead and mercury is hazardous to your health in just about every conceivable way, and the EPA will probably have a major stroke at this idea,"

Thanks for the idea.....however, being in Orygun, probably they'd have the swat team after me should I even attempt to buy liquid mercury.
 
The "Foul Out" always works for 100% cleaning as long as you use it properly.

Ultrasonics will not remove leading, but may help.

Use of genuine COPPER Chore Boy wrapped around a brush, followed with a new bore brush will also remove all leading.

I've always used a Lewis Lead Remover, followed by a new bore brush and solvent.

Using mercury just isn't smart, and using home brew chemicals like vinegar and peroxide can and will ruin the guns finish if it gets on a blued gun.
There is no chemical that will actually REMOVE leading that isn't so toxic that it won't remove YOU.
 
Stiff brushes

I've had more than my fair share of frustrations trying to get lead out.

The second-best remedy I've found was already suggested. Unravel a chore-boy or similar brass pad, wrap it around and around a bristle brush, and make a few passes through barrel and chambers. It's a pain, because it shreds and compresses, so you have to keep re-wrapping new strands. But it works much, much better than just a regular brush.

The best remedy I've found is the use of some very stiff bristle brushes from Brownell's. These supposedly are just plain old brass brushes, but the bristles are very think and stiff, so they stand up against the obstructions caused by lead. 20 passes through a heavily lead-fouled bore or chamber will get it out, as opposed to 2000 passes with a regular wimpy brush.

With either method, to get the tiniest final residue out, I use either Iosso bore cleaner paste or J-B non-embedding bore cleaning compound, both available from Brownells.

I use a brass brush for the cylinder face, face of barrel, topstrap, etc.

I've also learned to relax a little and not clean my revolvers to the nth degree after every single range session. Every winter, I get every gun of mine absolutely sparkling clean, but during the heavy shooting months, I'm content to leave a little bit of lead after a light cleaning.

I hope this helps.

Donald
 
Liquid Mercury

And as for the liquid mercury, I remember my grandfather giving me a bowl with some in it to play with when I was a kid, and I also remember playing with it from broken thermometers as a kid. I'm sure I stuck my fingers in it and played with the bubbles of mercury. I wouldn't do that again. I'm no chemist or physician, but I believe it's extremely dangerous to one's health, so I recommend against that bore-cleaning method. -Donald
 
Plus One on the ChorBoy wrapped brush. Have been doing this for years and found it to get all the lead out in no time at all.
 
Thanks on the thoughts. I forgot about choreboy. Can't find it in the store here, but there is something similar under a different name. Now to find that sample I bought last time I forgot about it.

I've wondered how those electronic rod deals would work on cylinders. Not likely, eh?

I have noticed it's my STAINLESS guns that have far more trouble with leading. I'm using loads in 850-1100 fps in 44 mag & 45 acp.

The blue cowboy guns with cast lead from same source can go a year without any real issue. Loads are typically 750-900 fps with same powders.
 
Those "lead away" cloths work pretty well for me. Just cut a piece off and use it like a patch. Some old dude at the gun shop told me it was going to take all this buffing and steel wool and stuff to remove all the lead fouling from my 686 was shocked when I brought it back and showed him what a $5 lead away cloth could do on stainless. That cloth and some Butch's bore shine was all it took.

Just my $0.02.

dale
 
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I use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean my guns and love it, just don't use something like windex, and they work GREAT just very expensive
 
I have a Foul Out, and it works great. But I don't use it very often; I find that fine bronze wool wrapped on an old bore brush to get most, if not all, lead and fouling out. If I want to get that last little bit without resorting to the Foul Out, I use these:
BROWNELLS : Brownells Search : Gun Cleaning & Chemicals : Patches & Mops : Cleaning Pellets - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Used with an appropriate bore cleaner, they work really well. I usually just use a little Flitz, but on a really bad bore I use Butch's (or go to the Foul Out), and finish up with some paste wax to protect the bore and provide a little lube for that next cold bore shot.

Of course, we're talking abrasive cleaners here, so some discretion is advised ;)
 
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