I finally picked up a Mauser 'Bolo' Broomhandle today. It was at an auction and I got it. Mechanically it's in good shape. Most of the blueing is gone and the grips are aftermarket, but it's still a genuine Mauser Broomhandle with all matching parts (as in all matching serial numbers).......with the exception of the grips. This has been one of my grail guns for many decades. I'll post photos later.
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Finally got a Mauser
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I'll be waiting.....
I'll be waiting for those pictures.
I'll be waiting for those pictures.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I picked up one of the Chinese batch about 20 years ago for about $200. Bluing is about 33%, non-matching numbers, Has a Chinese shoulder stock, and about 1 rifling the length of the barrel (just not always the same one). With the shoulder stock, Chinese ammo, and a sand bag, I got 2.5" at 100 yards and about 9" at 200 (that was back when I had eyes) The Chinese ammo shot to the German sights. I have thought about having the barrel re-lined, but I don't think that $300 or even $400 worth of work will make me shoot any better. On ammo: I made a few hundred cases from 223 mixed military brass. My gun has no problems with these, but some extractors may be in good shape and have a depth problem with the extractor groove. Measurer some Chinese ammo and you brass to see if these will work.
Ivan
Ivan
Making 7.63 Mauser from .223 brass is a pain as it requires inside neck turning of the case to get the neck wall thin enough, and then you've still got the issue of the smaller rim, which requires some adjustment of the stripper clips to get them to work even if your extractor reliably grabs the rim. It's more or less a last ditch option IMHO.
A much better option is to just buy 9mm Win Mag brass and then just resize it in a 7.63 Mauser die and trim it to length. 9mm Win mag brass is currently $16.63 per hundred or $89.21 per five hundred on clearance at Midway. It's a good deal at that price.
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There is also the option to just buy brass cased, boxer primed 7.63 Mauser ammo, since it is readily available now - unlike in the distant past when what you could find commercially was usually Berdan primed.
Fiocchi has brass cased and boxer primed 88 gr 7.63 Mauser ammo and you can usually find it for $30-$35 per box of 50.
PPU sells a brass cased and boxer primed 85 grain load and it can usually be found for about $25 per box of 50. Grafs currently has it on sale for $17 per box of 50.
A much better option is to just buy 9mm Win Mag brass and then just resize it in a 7.63 Mauser die and trim it to length. 9mm Win mag brass is currently $16.63 per hundred or $89.21 per five hundred on clearance at Midway. It's a good deal at that price.
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There is also the option to just buy brass cased, boxer primed 7.63 Mauser ammo, since it is readily available now - unlike in the distant past when what you could find commercially was usually Berdan primed.
Fiocchi has brass cased and boxer primed 88 gr 7.63 Mauser ammo and you can usually find it for $30-$35 per box of 50.
PPU sells a brass cased and boxer primed 85 grain load and it can usually be found for about $25 per box of 50. Grafs currently has it on sale for $17 per box of 50.
DWalt
Member
7.63x25 Tokarev will fit the Mauser (usually), but is not recommended as it is too powerful for the Mauser. But I think you can find Tokarev brass to reload. The correct bullet diameter for the Mauser is .311". Yahoo has a quite good Broomhandle Mauser forum, and there is a lot of good information there.
The Soviets used the 7.63mm Mauser round as the basis for the 7.62x25mm Tokarev round.
There are two principal differences between the cartridge nominal dimensions:
1. The bullet diameter for the 7.62x25 Tokarev is .308, while the bullet diameter of the 7.63x25 Mauser is .3095; and
2. While the base diameters are identical, the rim diameter on the 7.65x25 Tokarev is only .378", compared to .393" on the 7.63x25 Mauser.
The nominal bullet diameter difference is minimal enough that the sizing die and expander ball in each caliber takes care of it if you interchange the brass form one to the other. Similarly, the .015 difference in rim diameter should not be enough to cause issues in extraction in most firearms.
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There's lots of confusion about the pressures that each round is loaded to and most of what you'll find on the internet is wrong.
Looking at the CIP standards, the 7.62x25 Tok has a maximum average press of 34,000 CUP compared to 37,000 CUP for the 7.63x25 Mauser. In other words the pressure standard for the Tokarev is in fact lower than the Mauser round, when internet legend usually states it the other way.
Where the issue gets very confusing is in reference to Soviet SMG ammo being loaded to higher pressure than pistol ammo. It's an idea that isn't unreasonable, it's just not correct. Both the British and the Germans loaded some marks of 9mm Parabellum ammo to higher pressures for use in sub machine guns, but the fact is that the Soviets didn't follow that practice during or after the war. Commonality was a big ticket item with the Soviets and they were not inclined to field ammo that would work in one weapon but blow up another.
There is still a large grain of truth to the SMG/7.62x25 Tokarev myth however as the Czech M48 round shared the 7.62x25 Tokarev dimensions but was designed for their Model 24 and Model 26 sub machine guns when they adapted them from 9mm to 7.62x25 Tokarev. The M48 round was loaded to a velocity of 1,800 fps in an 11.2" barrel. The M48 round also generated 1,600 fps in the CZ 52 pistol.
These velocities compare to a velocity of 1,640 fps for the Soviet 7.62x25 Tokarev round in the 10.6" barrel of a PPSh sub machine gun and a velocity of 1,378 fps in the Soviet TT-30 Tokarev pistol, so the M48 round is hotter than Soviet 7.62x25 Tokarev ammo by a couple hundred feet per second in more or less comparable firearms.
Some of the velocity increase in the M48 round is due to the slower powder used, and if you've ever shot a CZ 52 with M48 ammo, you'll probably recall the impressive muzzle flash. However, I'm fairly certain the pressure is also a good bit higher as well and I've seen references as high as 42,000 CUP.
It's worth noting here that the ONLY difference in the Soviet military 7.62x25 Tokarev SMG and pistol ammo is in the packaging - paper wrapped in 70 round versus 16 round packages. However, people see the higher velocity for the SMG and think it's loaded hotter - neglecting to consider that the difference is due to the longer barrel of the PPSh.
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There's also the bullet diameter difference to consider. The Germans were noted for fielding captured Soviet weapons chambered for 7.62x25 Tokarev, and firing their domestically produced 7.63x25 mm Mauser round in them. So at least for the Tokarev TT-30 pistol and PPSh, it didn't seem to hurt anything.
And of course if you're going the other way, you'll be shooting a .308 Tokarev bullet in a .3095 Mauser barrel, so excessive pressure should not be an issue. Just be sure you're not using Czech M48 ammo as it will destroy a 7.63x25mm Mauser pistol in very short order.
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When it comes to a C96 however, I would be very careful shooting commercial ammo in it. Whether it's made in the US or in Europe these seems to be some fairly wide variation in 7.63x.25 Mauser / .30 Mauser load levels. I'd use hand loads only, start low and work up until the C96 started to cycle reliably and then stay at that level.
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Photos. As I stated the grips are aftermarket. I'm not a wealthy man so I buy what I can afford. This one set me back about $800.00. It isn't pretty , but the pistol is in good mechanical condition. I took it apart last night (wow the engineering that went into this pistol is incredible) and everything is solid. The safety works like it's supposed to. The magazine spring is a little worn out and I'm going to replace the recoil spring and main spring as well, but I believe there will be no trouble firing it. The serial number is 55XXXX putting it in the late 1920's or early 30's at the end of the Bolo manufacturing life. I've have wanted a Mauser Broomhandle ,especially the Bolo variant, since I was literally in sixth grade (1979). IT alongside the Webley Mk VI and the S&W Model 27 with the 3.5" barrel are my Grail Guns. I now have the Webley and the Mauser.
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Any firearm that served time during the second world war should have a nice, used, look to it!!!
Good looking Mauser...............
Reproduction broomhandle grips are available on ebay for $25ish shipped.
Good looking Mauser...............
Reproduction broomhandle grips are available on ebay for $25ish shipped.
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tndrfttom
Member
Mauser Springs
The notion of changing the springs is a good one if you plan to shoot your Bolo. I just put a set of Wolff springs in my C96. The set of four only costs $30 but was backordered for two months. You will have to fit both ends of the magazine spring so the ends fit their corresponding slots in the follower and magazine floor plate. The length of the firing pin spring will probably need a little shortening too.
The notion of changing the springs is a good one if you plan to shoot your Bolo. I just put a set of Wolff springs in my C96. The set of four only costs $30 but was backordered for two months. You will have to fit both ends of the magazine spring so the ends fit their corresponding slots in the follower and magazine floor plate. The length of the firing pin spring will probably need a little shortening too.
A good friend of mine bought a few cases of the Chinese 7.62 ammo,,this was back in the 80's, early 90's. He shot it in his Tokarev pistols and then decided to use it in a C96. I questioned it,,as did some others,,but he went a head and shot away.
It only took about 40rds and it stopped operating and was jammed.
Disassembled it showed the locking block was cracked as was the locking frame.
Of course he blames himself,,and the ammo,,but himself first.
I wouldn't shoot any of the surplus ComBloc Tokarev ammo in a C96. It's just too unkn where and what the stuff is.
There was some hot-shot Bulgarian stuff that was wrecking CZ52's a few years back too.
Either reload or shoot commercial Mauser ammo is my advise.
There isn't much at all that holds that bolt in place from flying out the back of the C96 anyway. Take 'er easy.
Mine get a few rounds of old Red & Green box Remington commercial ammo. Boy is that stuff powder puff loaded!
It only took about 40rds and it stopped operating and was jammed.
Disassembled it showed the locking block was cracked as was the locking frame.
Of course he blames himself,,and the ammo,,but himself first.
I wouldn't shoot any of the surplus ComBloc Tokarev ammo in a C96. It's just too unkn where and what the stuff is.
There was some hot-shot Bulgarian stuff that was wrecking CZ52's a few years back too.
Either reload or shoot commercial Mauser ammo is my advise.
There isn't much at all that holds that bolt in place from flying out the back of the C96 anyway. Take 'er easy.
Mine get a few rounds of old Red & Green box Remington commercial ammo. Boy is that stuff powder puff loaded!
QA is an issue with communist block ammo - not so much at the individual factory level, but just due to the rather wide diversity of countries involved, examples like the M48 load, and the inability of most shooters to decipher the writing on the tins.
Storage conditions and age are another consideration. While the US switched to non corrosive priming during and after WWII, beginning with the .30 Carbine, the Soviets stayed with corrosive priming compounds because those compounds were very stable over a very long period of time, even under far less than ideal storage conditions. Wrap it in waxed paper, store it in an airtight metal tin, pretty much forget about it for 50 plus years and it'll still go bang with 100% reliability, even if it's been stored in desert heat or arctic cold. The same however is not always true of the powder and the burn rate can change over time due to degradation in those same less than ideal storage conditions.
Storage conditions and age are another consideration. While the US switched to non corrosive priming during and after WWII, beginning with the .30 Carbine, the Soviets stayed with corrosive priming compounds because those compounds were very stable over a very long period of time, even under far less than ideal storage conditions. Wrap it in waxed paper, store it in an airtight metal tin, pretty much forget about it for 50 plus years and it'll still go bang with 100% reliability, even if it's been stored in desert heat or arctic cold. The same however is not always true of the powder and the burn rate can change over time due to degradation in those same less than ideal storage conditions.
Very helpful information. Thanks.
Nice Mauser, you don't find them at every gun show now. Yours is from the period that German pistol production was under the control of the Interallied Control Commission which manated barrels less than 100mm long (a litttle less than 4 inches). As you probably know, the entwined leters NS on the back of the hammer mean 'neue sicherung' or new safety. To pu it on, you draw back the hammer as far as it will go and push up on the safety. The previous model you just pushed up the safety and it drew back the hammer. The new design reuired less careful fitting.
Mauser sights are regulated for use with the stock. Otherwise it will have considerably more muzzle flip. You'll find it shoots about a foot high at 25 yds.
The Mauser handles high pressure well. I once had a Mauser I thought was in 9mm Luger and fired a magazine full of cast bullet handloads. The pistol functioned normally but when I picked up the brass I almost wet my pants. The primers were flat and punctured, the head of the case was expanded and the headstamp almost illegible. It was a 30 caliber Mauser and I'd been pushing .356" bullets down a .311" bore. The Mauser's weakness is excessive recoil. As you can see, the bolt is quite light as it is well hollowed out. It slams back against the bolt stop which is hard, and which in turn slams against an abutment at the rear of the barrel extension which is softer. Enough hard blows and this abutment peens backwards. Check any prospective purchases for this, incidently. It is often found on Mausers chambered for the 9mm Luger which recoils hader than the 7.63. This is more of a problem with Bolos as the recoiling parts are lighter due to the shorter and thinner barrel. A new recoil spring, the one that is wound arond the length of the firing pin, is advisable, and if you can find an extra strength one get it, to compensate for the lighter recoiling parts.
Don't shoot high pressure Czech ammo in the Mauser. It is vey hot: I chronographed an honest 1600 fps out of a CZ 52, which is made for that load. One headstamp is BNZ and there's another I forget, perhaps someone can supply that info. Except for this, any 7.63 or 7.62 ammo is OK in the Mauser. Submachine gun ammo will sound alarming but the pressures and recoil are within the Mauser's design envelope. Submachine gun ammo is usually loaded with slightly slower burning powder to take advanage of the longer barrel. In the Mauser it will give a lot more blast and sound more powerful than it is. Russian and other Warsaw Pact ammo has no flash reducing components in the powder so the flash, too is quite impressive. Any military ammo is corrosive, so clean accordingly.
If you disassemble the lock mechanism package, there is a 'C' shaped part at the front of the mainspring. Note which way it is facing and replace it that way. It is possible to replace it backwards, which will lock up the entire mechanism and require serious surgery to fix.
If you reload for your Bolo, reduce published loads by about 10% to compensate for the lighter recoiling parts. Most Mausers measure .311" across the grooves, but to be sure ,slug your bore and size cast bullets accordingly. .308" jacketed bullets work fine in the Mauser. There are several jacketed bullets and a variety of bullet moulds suitable for the Mauser. Ammo is available from Fiocci and brass from Starline. Cases made from 223 brass are not good for the Mauser. Their extracion groove is shorter, front to rear, than Mauser brass. When the round is fired, the front face of the extraction groove comes back against the front face of the extractor. I've seen at least one Mauser extractor humped in the middle from 223 brass. It's fine in the Tokarev, howeve; it has a different style of extractor.
Thus endeth the dissertation.
Mauser sights are regulated for use with the stock. Otherwise it will have considerably more muzzle flip. You'll find it shoots about a foot high at 25 yds.
The Mauser handles high pressure well. I once had a Mauser I thought was in 9mm Luger and fired a magazine full of cast bullet handloads. The pistol functioned normally but when I picked up the brass I almost wet my pants. The primers were flat and punctured, the head of the case was expanded and the headstamp almost illegible. It was a 30 caliber Mauser and I'd been pushing .356" bullets down a .311" bore. The Mauser's weakness is excessive recoil. As you can see, the bolt is quite light as it is well hollowed out. It slams back against the bolt stop which is hard, and which in turn slams against an abutment at the rear of the barrel extension which is softer. Enough hard blows and this abutment peens backwards. Check any prospective purchases for this, incidently. It is often found on Mausers chambered for the 9mm Luger which recoils hader than the 7.63. This is more of a problem with Bolos as the recoiling parts are lighter due to the shorter and thinner barrel. A new recoil spring, the one that is wound arond the length of the firing pin, is advisable, and if you can find an extra strength one get it, to compensate for the lighter recoiling parts.
Don't shoot high pressure Czech ammo in the Mauser. It is vey hot: I chronographed an honest 1600 fps out of a CZ 52, which is made for that load. One headstamp is BNZ and there's another I forget, perhaps someone can supply that info. Except for this, any 7.63 or 7.62 ammo is OK in the Mauser. Submachine gun ammo will sound alarming but the pressures and recoil are within the Mauser's design envelope. Submachine gun ammo is usually loaded with slightly slower burning powder to take advanage of the longer barrel. In the Mauser it will give a lot more blast and sound more powerful than it is. Russian and other Warsaw Pact ammo has no flash reducing components in the powder so the flash, too is quite impressive. Any military ammo is corrosive, so clean accordingly.
If you disassemble the lock mechanism package, there is a 'C' shaped part at the front of the mainspring. Note which way it is facing and replace it that way. It is possible to replace it backwards, which will lock up the entire mechanism and require serious surgery to fix.
If you reload for your Bolo, reduce published loads by about 10% to compensate for the lighter recoiling parts. Most Mausers measure .311" across the grooves, but to be sure ,slug your bore and size cast bullets accordingly. .308" jacketed bullets work fine in the Mauser. There are several jacketed bullets and a variety of bullet moulds suitable for the Mauser. Ammo is available from Fiocci and brass from Starline. Cases made from 223 brass are not good for the Mauser. Their extracion groove is shorter, front to rear, than Mauser brass. When the round is fired, the front face of the extraction groove comes back against the front face of the extractor. I've seen at least one Mauser extractor humped in the middle from 223 brass. It's fine in the Tokarev, howeve; it has a different style of extractor.
Thus endeth the dissertation.
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