Finally!

dpote

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I have read a few posts here in the antique forum, never thinking I would ever get here.
Well, here I am. How did I do?

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Okay, I 'hope' honesty is the best policy...

Not to burst your bubble, but...

If you look at the metal edges of your firearm along the frame, they are more rounded than one would expect to see. Also, the interface between the side plate and frame is fairly evident, not 'nearly' seamless, as one would expect. Coupled with the colouration of the bluing, which is not consistent with Smith & Wesson bluing from that era, it all points to an obvious polishing (thereby rounding edges, etc.) and reblue.

Lastly, the bluing appears 100%, which it is, as reblued. If the bluing were 100% (and not reblued) I would expect the grips to be in a similar state, or at least nearly so (much sharper checkering/detail). The grips on this particular firearm are well worn. It would be almost impossible (I say 'almost' as never say 'never', but nothing particular comes to mind to explain extensive wear with100% bluing, other than a reblue) to have worn grips, at least worn to this extent, on a firearm with nearly 100% original finish.

Don't shoot the messenger!
 
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These are very nice little handguns, and pretty accurate (if your eyes can see the sights) out to 10 yards or so. I have a couple of them. Mod 1 1/2 Single action (CF). Yours has evidently been refinished which does not have a bearing on the shooting of it, if it is still mechanically solid. .32 S&W is still available and loaded very mild to accommodate these vintage revolvers. Nice start in an antique shooter.
 
I don't have a problem with refinished guns as long as they're priced accordingly. I'd buy that piece in a heartbeat if the price was right.
 
Lots of good information posted here and I am certain your 38 SA is refinished. mrcvs has several pointers for those looking at purchasing original finish guns.

My advise would be try to study a factory finished gun in high condition and you will see excellent metal work, sharp edges, no sign of buffing or sanding marks, and sharp stampings. It is almost universally true that all antique S&Ws have case-hardened triggers and hammers that will not match the bluing on the gun.

As for your question on how did you do? There is nothing wrong with the gun you bought and as stated, if the price was right it is a fine gun to own. These spur triggers are actually quite fun to shoot if in good mechanical condition and can be shot with currently manufactured 28 S&W ammnition.
 
I knew it was refinished, which did not bother me a bit. I just wanted to shoot one. The brass is on order, Dad is casting me some bullets and I have plenty of FFFg to load it with.
I don't mind a Model T with a new paint job, it's the car, not the paint for me right now. Later, if I get serious about collecting, and deeper pockets, I'll get a better specimen.
 
I knew it was refinished, which did not bother me a bit. I just wanted to shoot one. The brass is on order, Dad is casting me some bullets and I have plenty of FFFg to load it with.
I don't mind a Model T with a new paint job, it's the car, not the paint for me right now. Later, if I get serious about collecting, and deeper pockets, I'll get a better specimen.

Okay, then, you did well! As long as you are happy, knew it was refinished when you bought it, and want to have fun shooting it, you can't ask for anything more, now can you?

Have fun with your new toy!
 
I have about a half dozen of these and they are all great shooters. I'm even toying with the idea of reaming a spare cylinder to .32 s&w long wadcutter. Factory long wadcutter is much cheaper than .32 s&w short and the cylinder is barely long enough to accomodate. One of my 1-1/2's is even wearing a 6" spare barrel from a DA. It looks like a mini buntline special.
 
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