Follow Up REMINGTON 870 Recoil Pad

[SW CQB 45]

http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/313468-remmy-870-recoil-pad-grind-fit.html

I bought through Brownells a Kick-EEZ grind to fit 304-8-JR-B recoil pad since it was the closest in size with minimal grinding.

I used my belt sander and 120 grit belt and followed up with 220 and 400 grit. it still needs some final polishing to to remove the grind marks on the hard plate.

next project. I am not looking for a fancy wood color....in fact I am about a low buck as low buck can get.

The was an ugly stock that was given to me and a buddy trimmed off one inch.

I plan to hand sand any further sheen I might have missed and I think I want the stock black and I will also want the foregrip to match the color.

Keeping the budget in mind....will black shoe polish blacken my stock sufficiently and follow up with stock oil to seal and protect the wood?

thanks in advance

 

[Frank46]

Just redid the stock and fore end on my 870 police turn in. Finish was so bad it was literally flaking off. Sanded down to bare wood and used a small file wrapped with different grades of silicon carbide paper. Stained it with a water based stain, then used steel wool to deal with any wood brought up to the surface bt the water stain. Sealed the wood with wood sealer and used steel wool again. Then 3-4 heavy coats of tru oil with steel wool in between coatings. Last heavy coat gone over with 4/0 (0000) steel wool to take off the shine. Frank

 

[SW CQB 45]

you got any pics Frank?

I would love to see it.

 

[Frank46]

Sorry but no pics. I'm what the politically correct say electronically challenged. Don't have and need a cell phone and still haven't figured out how to program my VCR. Just use it to play movies when there isn't anything on the boob tube. The stock and fore end were really crappy as the finish was literally flaking off. The shotgun was covered in rust felt I had to get a tetanus shot. 4/0 steel wool and copious amounts of break free removed all the rust and no pitting. I save it for social engagements. Frank

 

[2152hq]

I think you'll have quite a mess on your hands (literally) if you shoe polish the wood and then put any sort of wood finish over the top of it.

Shoe polish is wax with coloring in it,,usually extremely fine carbon powder in one form or another for black.
Any sort of finish on top of waxed wood is not going to adhere or dry well if at all.
Plus the shoe polish probably won't evenly cover the wood with a black coating like you'd want.

Shoe dye may work.
Liquid leather dye (ebony color in this case) will work on wood. It's used quite often on hard woods by stock & furniture makers.
They are solvent based dyes that can penetrate the dense wood. You just keep adding it till the surface is as dark as you want it. Most are alcohol based. Some use a proprietary solvent, but they all work the same way,,they are a dye, not a suspended particle 'mud' like oil based stain.
Some are even water based, but they raise the grain badly which you don't want.

Oil stain won't work well on most dense hardwoods like maple, birch, elm, ect. Your stock looks like it may be birch that was stained walnut color.

If it is in fact American Walnut,,then plain oil stain in Ebony color will stain it nice and black for you as it is an open grained wood.
Clean the surface with a good sloshing of alcohol first to open the grain up. It allows the wood to absorb the oil stain better.

You could always paint the wood...they paint everything else now.

 

[SW CQB 45]

oh well Frank.

thanks for the info 2152hq. I will find some ebony stain.