Front sight insert for fixed-sight K frame

[meh92]

Hello everyone,

Is there enough metal on the front blade of a 3" or 4" bull-barreled K-frame to cut a dovetail for a factory-style colored plastic insert? The adjustable-sight models like the M19 and M66 seem to have plenty of blade to cut, but the blade on my model M65 is pretty short.

If anyone has this on their gun, or installed one themselves, I'd love to see pictures and hear input. The gun is for carry and all silver sights just don't cut it for me.

Yes, paint or nail polish would accomplish the same thing but I'd prefer an insert.

Thanks

 

[dfariswheel]

Inserts can be done.

The dovetail cut itself doesn't have to be that deep, as long as you use "S&W holes".

In older S&W insert sights, if you remove the insert you'll find two small holes drilled into the sight blade.
During insert casting, the holes are filled with the epoxy mix and these form "locks" to prevent the insert from coming out.

To install an insert, just cut a shallow dovetail, then drill the two small holes down into the blade. The holes don't need to be all that deep.

Here's how I made inserts for front sights:

Make up two "dams" from small, flat pieces of metal or plastic.

Apply a coat of wax to the faces of the dams, then clamp them to the sides of the sight blade with a small pair of Vise-Grips to form a mold around the dovetail.
The wax prevents the epoxy from sticking to the "dams".

Mix up some epoxy glue, preferably something that has a longer working time than the 5 minute stuff, but maybe not as long as the 2 hour type.

After mixing the glue, put a SMALL drop of Testor's solvent base model paint in the glue and mix it thoroughly.
You need only a small amount, and the less you use the stronger the insert will be.
Experiment to find the right mix.

Use a toothpick or small screwdriver to put a drop of the epoxy-paint mix in the dovetail.
You want exactly enough to fill the cut to the top of the sight, level with it but no higher.

Brace the sight, (or the whole gun if it's on the barrel) so the top of the sight is level.
This will allow the epoxy to settle level and not run out.

After the leftover epoxy is like a hard rubber, remove the mold and use a brass or plastic "knife" to clean up any excess epoxy by cutting it off.
Allow to fully cure for 24 hours in a warm place, and you're good to go.

An additional step you can do for an even more durable insert is to put S&W holes in the dovetail.
S&W does, or did drill two small holes in the bottom of the dovetail in the sight.
When filling the dovetail with the epoxy-paint mix, use a needle or toothpick to pack epoxy into the shallow holes.
These form "locks" that prevent the insert from coming loose or moving sideways out of the blade.

 

[meh92]

I see what you mean about the locking holes. That makes sense. Do you by chance have any pics of your work?

I'd probably do some practice runs on bar stock scraps before touching file-to-gun.

Thanks

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Here's a small video from Midway USA were he files the opening & installs casting resins as a sight insert..
PC-11 is a white Epoxy that could be used to make your own with the paint color of your choice..
Good Idea about trying it on a scrap piece of metal first..
YouTube - Gunsmith - Install red ramp front sight in S&W revolver

 

[tomcatt51]

Best thing I've done for a fixed sight S&W, a no dash 640, was to put the gun in a vertical mill and enlarge (widen and deepen) the sight notch (more on one side than the other to correct windage) and then take a couple cuts with a ball end cutter to recut the "trough" in front of the notch so it didn't interfere with the sight picture.