Norvell Foster is the engraver.
He regularly used stamps to sign his work for some reason.
Usually multiple 'word' stamps to form the signiture.
One stamp will be 'Engraved By' or 'By'
Another will be 'N.C Foster'
Then another 'S.A. Tex' (sometimes just 'Tex')
Another with the yr engraved. This one will be in separate hand stamps
That's what was done here. The NC Foster is one separate stamp
The 'By' is a separate stamp
The 'S.A. Tex' is one separate stamp as well
The date is done with single separate hand stamps.
Some of his work shows different Fonts for the separate words but all in the same signiture line.
The name at times a Script/Signiture style.
The date again using separate hand stamps and usually a standard block letter style. Likely an off the shelf set of stamps.
I don't know if he made the stamps, if he just didn't care to do lettering?
A well known secret among engravers,,,not all of them like doing Lettering, not all of them can do it well. It's an art in itself.
..But then again so is die cutting to make those stamps..
The rather bold hollow point or Dot punch background within the scrolls is a popular style. You find it in the American Scroll Style or Nimschke Style and others of course.
The dots are not supposed to overlap when done in that style, they are supposed to lay next to each other and edges touch to cover the surface.
It takes a bit longer to apply the background matting tecture that way as opposed to 'stippling' where you run the same hollow point punch randomly over the area to matte it. Two slightly different effects.
A smaller dia hollow punch would make for a less dramatic background as well.
Lots of ways to do stuff.
Winchester, Remington and others used the former method of laying down the matting with the hollow punch generally. The punch dots lying next to each other and touching but not overlapping.
If you are using it to mat a relief background where you have cut away the steel to lower it, you almost have to use the stippling method. As the surface is now full of chisel paths and the punch will flatten and smooth the surface as well as add the even beaded look.
Most engravers buy their hollow punches now. When they are flattened out from use, they are thrown away.
I was shown how to make them from drill rod with a file and a flat graver to make the cup point. Heat treat them ect.
They last a long time unless you work on steel harder than the punch itself of course and some of the modern stuff is terrible to engrave.
I usually just anneal and reshape, and reharden them if they get battered.
It's odd that the hammer end of the punch,,never Heat Treated gets extremely hard just from the hammer taps over time. No amt of annealing will soften that end for re-use to a punch or other tool.
Work hardened with thousands of small hammer taps.
Great looking revolvers,,both of them!