Gearing up with my M1 Garand

6thtexas

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We have a ton of hogs on our lease. A couple of members had acquired ARs to use on them, but I have decided to drag out my Garand. I have had this long enough that I got it from the DCM, the forerunner of the CMP. Anyway, I have a good hunting load (150 gr. SP Spitzer and 47.0 gr. IMR 4895). It has been a long time since it had a thorough cleaning. I have a Gas Cylinder Lock Nut Wrench, a Gas Cylinder Lock Screw Wrench, and a good chamber brush on the way. Other than the normal rod, patches, etc.-Anything else I need the giver her a good cleaning?

BTW, the old gun is heavy to lug around but seems no heavier than the AR-10 one guy had up at the lease. I figure if it worked good on the Axis it ought to work on the hogs.
 
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Got to love a Garand! The only thing I would add to that is a good sling and some spare clips as they can be hard to find in the grass etc
 
Sounds like you have all the cleaning gear you need, just make sure you grease it in all the right spots.
 
We have a ton of hogs on our lease. A couple of members had acquired ARs to use on them, but I have decided to drag out my Garand. I have had this long enough that I got it from the DCM, the forerunner of the CMP. Anyway, I have a good hunting load (150 gr. SP Spitzer and 47.0 gr. IMR 4895). It has been a long time since it had a thorough cleaning. I have a Gas Cylinder Lock Nut Wrench, a Gas Cylinder Lock Screw Wrench, and a good chamber brush on the way. Other than the normal rod, patches, etc.-Anything else I need the giver her a good cleaning?

BTW, the old gun is heavy to lug around but seems no heavier than the AR-10 one guy had up at the lease. I figure if it worked good on the Axis it ought to work on the hogs.

Don't leave out korea and Viet Nam. Both big pork country. Mmmm bacon.
 
Don't know much anout reloading, but I do know that loads that don't replicate USGI M2 ball can potetially bend the op-rod. I think a modified gas valve can be purchased to relieve any excessive pressure.

From what I've read 4895 was developed for the Garand. 47.0 behind a 150 flat base sounds about right for the M2 load. There are a number of reputable websites that have recipes for M2.
Slower powders often used for bolt actions develop pressure differently and aren't good for the op rod.
 
Yessir it is my understanding that one doesn't want any powder slower burning than 4064. 4895 was loaded in M2 ball a long time. Loads like I run in the two bolt actions at the house would have a Garand hiccupping pretty quick I suspect. Everything gets marked good so no one shoves a 180 and a case full of 4350 through the M1.
 
Hornady 9th edition manual has a separate section for Garand. Also ammo is readily available for .30-06 Garand.
 
Now go to the range and get known zeros for 100,200, 300 yards etc.( as in count the number of clicks up from bottom and then write it down on a label and put it on the stock so you can easily reference it and if need be run the sight all the way to the bottom and start from a know elevation.

I would use a center of mass hold instead of a 6 o'clock target hold.

Also establish where your no wind zero is....might be the mechanical zero (center line in the scale) might be 1-2 clicks right or left...anyway you need to know that so that it is repeatable.

Then SMILE you are using a true pleasure to shoot!!!

Randy

PS. Stay with your 4895 powder, your M1 LOVES it...
 
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I've taken ferel hogs with my M1 rifle while deer hunting in south Arkansas, though I've never hog hunted using one because they are kinda heavy to tote around and I prefer something shorter and lighter when I'm specifically hunting hogs. My hat is off to those who carried a M1 rifle, ammo, and field pack in the service of our country.
 
The M-1

A long time Garand here. I was all hyped up a few years ago to kill a deer with my M-1. Once I had done it I realized that it proved that a 30-06 would kill a deer! Fancy That! The only limitation on using them to hunt is the battle sights. The first and last half hour of light is a challenge compared to a scope.

I use foaming bore cleaner and a bore snake on my M-1 for quick cleaning. I have one piece coated rods and muzzle guards to use with the foaming cleaner as well. I love these rifles. The load you have listed is a great M-1 load. 4895 and 4064 are the preferred powders for these old gals! 150 and 165/168 grain bullets are the cats meow!
 
Now go to the range and get known zeros for 100,200, 300 yards etc.( as in count the number of clicks up from bottom and then write it down on a label and put it on the stock so you can easily reference it and if need be run the sight all the way to the bottom and start from a know elevation. Randy

I think it would be easier to zero at 100 yards and use Kentucky windage for closer/further shots. The Army taught that and it's always worked for me with iron sights. From what I've seen of hog hunting, you won't have a lot of time to consult the info on the stock and adjust accordingly. Those feral hogs move right along.
 
The Army zeroed the Garand for 250 yards, but fired for zero at 25 yards on a special target that was made for that purpose. It was called the battle sight zero, and a center of mass hold would hit a man size silhouette target from point blank to 500 yards.
 
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Your 47gr of 4895 is my best load for 150gr bullets in my M1`s. 3/4 " at 100 yds with those great irons is common.
Start at 10 clicks when you zero at 100yds. Center your target in the peep and place your post right under where you want to hit.
1 click= 1" at 100yds. 5 clicks = 25" at 500 yds which is only 1" difference from the 150gr bullets drop at 500yd. It works.
Those rifles were truly rifles for Riflemen.
Jim
When you clean your gas cylinder, do not remove it. I use a 1/4 in drive end, no socket, to remove the gas cylinder plug. Use a big screwdriver instead if it is the single slot plug. You can swab out the gas cylinder without removing the gas cylinder.
I do this on mine because they are glass bedded and tight and only get field stripped when absolutly needed.. However, you can clean the gas cylinder by field stripping, removing the op rod and cleaning the cylinder bore from the other end.
Dont forget your grease points.
Love M1`s
Jim
 
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6thTexas,

If you remove the receiver group from the stock group, upon reassembly, you will need to shoot 50-75 rounds thru her to get things to settle back in. Elsewise, your accuracy will suffer. Just a friendly heads up. You have a really fine rifle.

Jim
 

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