GI type parkerizing

kb1903

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I'm in the S/E Pa. area. I'm considering a finish challenged S & W 1917. Does anyone know where I could get a GI type parkerized finish done in the Philadelphia area? Thanks, Ken
 
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parkerizing

I have been doing my own for 30 years, simple process, brownell's has the Parkerizing solution with instructions. you can do it on a hot plate or on a kitchen stove. you just need to take apart and bead blast the parts to refinish.
 
I have seen it done by a local guy, who has since passed away. I know the process is pretty straightforward, but it is the bead blasting that presents the problem. Thanks
 
Yes, one of the easiest finishes, it stands up pretty well and holds oil. You can do it at home but blast parts within 12 hours and use a good degreaser.

As for a local guy, if call around as any good gunsmith should be able to park. One if the cheapest and simple finishes. Two parkerizing process to keep in mind manganese and zinc. For most war time and pre war I use manganese as If I remember right was the more common of that time era.

Make sure who ever does it plugs bore and chamber. I've had a couple people have something parkerized and have problems as the person didn't do this and it can and will cause problems in certain cases.
 
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parkerizing

We have done commercial parkerizing for many years. Manganese is the darker black of the two. Zink phosphate it the correct grey/green WWII and pre-war military finish.
WE are in Western North Carolina if you cannot find anyone locally.
 
As the gent immediately above notes, the zinc parkerizing would be period correct. This is generally done with a phosphoric acid solution (somewhere around 2-3% acid) at ~180 degrees.

One very important part: the finish is a buildup on the surface of the metal. If you're going DIY, you'll need to plug the barrel bore and cylinder chambers as well as any other parts you don't want to coat.
 
While bead blasting is nice, it's not necessary. Fine sandpaper will work, as will a fine wire brush. But it requires more time and hand labor than bead blasting. There are numerous sources for phosphating kits on the internet, and as noted, Brownell's sells one. Most of the older gunsmithing manuals cover the procedures in detail, and also contain formulas for making your own phosphating solutions (but it's easier to buy them ready to use, and the results will probably be better). I thought Manganese phosphate was the method most used during WWII, but I don't know. Iron, Zinc, and Manganese phosphate solutions are all in use, and produce slightly different appearances.

By the way, the slightly greenish tint is due to a final dip into a sodium bichromate solution which imparts much improved corrosion resistance. That's an important part of the industrial procedure for application of phosphate finishes, but not usually performed by amateurs.

I will also add that application of one of the spray and bake Teflon coatings over a phosphated surface produces an exceptionally durable and corrosion-resistant finish. I have done that on many guns, and it's great. Phosphate is an ideal base for Teflon coatings.
 
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The Brownells parkerizing kit is great if you want the gun black. You don't need to bead blast. I used 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper. It worked great. I used it on a beat up Navy Victory. Turned out nice.
As stated above you need to really degrease and plug any bore you don't want a rough finish in. After parkerizing you can go over it with Brownells Oxpho cold bluing for a more blue appearance. Make sure the gun is totally disassembled. I like to put the pins and screws back in their holes to plug them. Leave the side plate off and this will help to blacken the interior.
 
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