Got my Christmas of ‘24 present

I just got the ready to certify email, then the LGS called and helped me submit the form 4. So now the clock starts. Hopefully in a month or so, I can take it home.
 
Now that I'm waiting for my new toy to get out of jail, I have a few questions for the suppressor experts, especially those of you who reload.

1. First off, how often do you clean your cans? I made sure I got one that was able to be disassembled. I understand there are welded cans that don't allow disassembly for cleaning. I've already put about 140 rounds through it…I shot five of each before attaching the can to make sure I wasn't getting any keyholing. I was surprised how dirty the can got and how fast. I doubt they will let me clean it at the LGS after using it, but I haven't asked either…which brings up my second question:

2. For the reloaders, do you take into consideration how dirty a powder burns? So far I've used W-231 and 800-X. I didn't notice much difference between the two, both seemed equally sooty. I'm trying to keep my loads subsonic and I know slower loads can be sootier. What powders are more conducive to cleaner cans?

3. Also for the reloaders, do you take into consideration how much sound a powder produces? Are some powders "quieter" than others when using a can?

4. And finally, while seeking out suitable hosts for the can, I've noticed that they seem to really geared toward the Glock fan boys, with a few for newer Sigs, CZ's, Beretta 92's, couple of M&P's and the ubiquitous 1911. Right now I've got three that are setup for cans, all 10mm: an FN 510, an RIA Tac Ultra and a CMMG Banshee, but I'd like to eventually branch out into other calibers. Does anyone make threaded barrels for some of the more classic firearms, like 2nd and 3rd Gen S&W's, for example? If not, is it possible to get a spare barrel for a favorite firearm and have an extension welded on, then threaded?

Forgive me if some of my questions are idiotic, but I'm a can newbie and want to learn all I can about it before I start using it regularly. I'm sure I'll have more questions down the line, but these are the ones I've been pondering and researching so far.
 
Now that I'm waiting for my new toy to get out of jail, I have a few questions for the suppressor experts, especially those of you who reload.

1. First off, how often do you clean your cans? I made sure I got one that was able to be disassembled. I understand there are welded cans that don't allow disassembly for cleaning. I've already put about 140 rounds through it…I shot five of each before attaching the can to make sure I wasn't getting any keyholing. I was surprised how dirty the can got and how fast. I doubt they will let me clean it at the LGS after using it, but I haven't asked either…which brings up my second question
I never clean a can. Almost none of the cans in the 70s/80s were able to be disassembled

Many companies made lots of money "Jail Breaking" the cans for disassembly. Shooters have an obsession about cleaning

In the Dark Ages before the World Wide Web got popular, we had UseNet Groups. I belonged to the NFA List, we were all Class 7 manufactures. Dr Phil Dater was also one participants.

I asked Doc Dater about cleaning cans and his view was that the soot that coats the baffles help make things quieter. Another manufacturer that I can't recall asked if I ever heard of anyone cleaning a car's muffler.
2. For the reloaders, do you take into consideration how dirty a powder burns? So far I've used W-231 and 800-X. I didn't notice much difference between the two, both seemed equally sooty. I'm trying to keep my loads subsonic and I know slower loads can be sootier. What powders are more conducive to cleaner cans?
I never hand load lead projectiles for suppressed use. Much of the soot is from bullet lube burning off. Additionally subsonic ammunition is not reduced power, the projectiles are usually heavy for caliber and loaded to full pressures

IMIs subsonic 9MM is a 158 grain projectile, myself I load 165s for my 9MMs.

A few years back I developed a 240 grain JHP for use in the Government's next generation of integrally suppressed carbines chambered in 10MM Auto


240%20jhp%2010mms.jpg

3. Also for the reloaders, do you take into consideration how much sound a powder produces? Are some powders "quieter" than others when using a can?
Not really

Though I would never try a big boomer like H110/296

4. And finally, while seeking out suitable hosts for the can, I've noticed that they seem to really geared toward the Glock fan boys, with a few for newer Sigs, CZ's, Beretta 92's, couple of M&P's and the ubiquitous 1911. Right now I've got three that are setup for cans, all 10mm: an FN 510, an RIA Tac Ultra and a CMMG Banshee, but I'd like to eventually branch out into other calibers. Does anyone make threaded barrels for some of the more classic firearms, like 2nd and 3rd Gen S&W's, for example? If not, is it possible to get a spare barrel for a favorite firearm and have an extension welded on, then threaded?
With interchangeable back end and pistons on most centerfire cans these days accomadating most availble threaded barrels is no big deal.

While not stocked on their webpage most of the better barrel manufacturers can easily make 2nd and 3rd gen barrels. The trick is to actually call them and discuss the project. Do Not waste your time on an E-Mail. Just expect a long wait time as the put your order into the production schedule

For firearms that you can not get a threaded barrel, there are companies that will thread and sleeve existing barrels. This is very important for pistols with fixed barrels or even Lever Action rifles
 
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