Got this top break at the gun show

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Was sitting on the table today with price tag of $200, I figured original finish and very tight mechanics got to be worth $200 and gave it a new home

Now from what I researched it's late 1st model. There's no caliber stamped on the left side of the barrel. Cylinder serial # matching with the one on the bottom of grip frame. I don't think it was ever buffed and refinished and I don't think it was used much, SA and DA work like on the new gun.

Is it 38S&W and can I shoot modern ammo or reloading BP is a must?
 

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Hi There,


Cute 38DA 2nd. Model. These were made circa 1880-1884. The
star at the end of the serial number indicates it was sent back
to the Factory for repairs/refinishing.

You will get advice on whether to use black powder or smokeless
but considering the age, I would err on the side of conservatism.


Cheers!
Webb
 
Blued?

Good score!
It actually looks like it’s been blued over original nickel. If you carefully remove the grips you will see what the original finish was.


Murph
 
. . . You will get advice on whether to use black powder or smokeless but considering the age, I would err on the side of conservatism . . .

Absolutely, err on the side of conservatism using smokeless powder light loads or standard manufactured 38 S&W ammo from Remington, Winchester, etc. Both light reloads and factory ammunition have been proven to be lower pressure and velocity than BP.

From looking at the bore and exterior, that revolver has been well used so the normal caveat that any part can break on a revolver that is 140 years old, so you take your chances no matter what ammo you use. Parts are very hard to find for these early model 38 DAs.
 
Good score!
It actually looks like it’s been blued over original nickel. If you carefully remove the grips you will see what the original finish was.


Murph

Took off grips and don't see any evidence of bluing over nickel
 

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Took off grips and don't see any evidence of bluing over nickel

The star on the butt and that number on the grip frame (looks like 7*12?) indicates it went back to the factory once for some kind of work. Overall finish looks like it was reblued at some time since then.
As to what ammo to shoot there are endless arguments over the black versus smokeless to be found on here. I generally stick with black powder in my older guns since I like the smoke and blast and don't mind the cleanup at all........... I really cut my teeth on muzzle loaders as a teen and never have considered black hard to clean, just need to be thorough about it.
 
I think modern 38 S&W ammunition is going to be lower pressure than any black powder round might be. The currently available stuff is anemic and slow. Like lots of fire, smoke and boom? Use black powder.
 

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