Gun Graffiti - how to handle?

[125JHP]

This one has me stumped...

Recently I went browsing the local gunshow and came up with a decent 38spl.

It appears to have mostly holster wear. The recoil shield appears “as-new” (no cartridge head wear from firing),the cylinder has just barely a turn ring and other parts have hardly any perceptible wear. Overall, mechanically it appears in 95% or better and the price was right.

It does have one major problem (which I considered when buying it) …. Somebody wanted to bond with this gun forever and didn’t have a tattoo shop nearby.


OK,I know it’s just a shooter and I can learn to ignore it, but I’d rather not be reminded, plus it does kill resale potential down the road. So how do I deal with removing this graffiti ?

Methods that have occurred to me include:
1- Lightly file & sand taper the area smooth then refinish.
2- Bead blast the gun and refinish
3- Teach myself metal engraving with this fine specimen.
4- Find someone to fill (buildup weld) & smooth the area then refinish.
5- Just to satisfy the bubba in me… put some bond-o over it and repaint.

Possible ways I considered to refinish it…

a- Learn to rust-blue with this fine specimen.
b- Spray & Bake – Alumahyde, Gun-Kote or Cerama-kote
c- Parkerize
d- Nickle
e- Robar or similar
f- probably not gonna happen… send out for hot re-blue.

I’m not inclined to put a lot of $$ into this and want to do any “improvements” myself. Since this is a range shooter and desert gun I am inclined toward method #1 or #2 and finishes a or b.

eta: a possible 'localized' solution would be to bead-blast/engrave a "animal or outdoor scene" over just that side area to 'camouflage' the existing artwork... there would still be an issue of refinish.

What would you suggest/do ?

thanks
125

 

[Bullet Bob]

"What would you suggest/do ?"

Looks deep. I'd just live with it.

 

[SLT223]

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[125JHP]

ha ha ha
oh-my-head, that made my morning....

I would definitely need the first one to attempt using the second...

 

[whataboutbob]

Legally change your name to "LCPetnicci"

 

[reddog81]

I would guess that most options will either be just as noticeable of defacement or cost as much as what you paid for the gun.

I picked up a early 60's model 15 earlier this year and the cylinder, yoke, and ejector rod all have deep pitting from sitting on its side in a wet holster(only a guess). I could replace those 3 items and the gun would look great - almost NIB condition. but that would cost almost as much as I paid for the gun and it shoots perfectly already.

You bought a shooter and unless you throw a bunch of money at the gun it isn't going to move it from "shooter" grade.

 

[tlmetesh]

If it bothers you that much, then why did you buy it?

 

[125JHP]

It doesn't really bother me 'that much', and as said I know its a shooter and I bought it as such, fully considering the defacement.

It will never be anything more than a shooter due to this and no amount of work or money thrown at it will change that - I know that and I'm not trying to restore it for any other purpose than my own eye appeal.. I do wonder 'what was he thinking' but that too will eventually go away.

But... I do like to tinker and if I can remove it without making it look worse I'd like to give it a try - I might learn something in the process (besides not to mess with things beyond my skill set).

I'm just trying to determine which way that would be preferable over others IF I should decide to do anything. I have been wanting to try rust bluing for a while and this might be a good candidate.

 

[153]

It would polish out without too much work.

However, I sure the gun is proud of it's heritage and I would leave it be. You can always carve out a pair of handles that cover the area.

 

[garbler]

I think you will find that grinding or abrasives will do it but at a cost which could make it worse than you think it is now. Almost all serial numbers and factory engraved ID's are close to .005" deep and often much more. I think the BATF even has a spec for this as I recall. Anyway you sure ain't going to polish it out and if you chase it to the full depth the frame will look wavy at best. It could prepped, epoxy filled or tigged then refinished either flat black or coated. I've seen nice tig repairs that when reblued stood out as the new weld metals reacts a bit different than the original very often.

Good luck

 

[Muss Muggins]

Leave it alone. I'd tell everybody my Mafioso cousin left it to me in his will.

 

[arjay]

A gift from uncle Louie [emoji1][emoji41]

 

[old tanker]

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The ol' "Cut to size. Pound to fit. Paint to match," school of body work.

 

[italiansport]

I have an old S&W Model 10 nickled with two notches carved in each of the grips. How did they get there and what was the intent will never be known as the person I got it from was clueless.
I really enjoy it the way it is as a real conversation piece.
IMO: Leave yours alone as it isn't collector grade anyway.
Jim

 

[glenwolde]

J.B. Weld?

 

[Camster]

I couldn't live with that.I'd have to take a polishing wheel and some cold blue to it.

 

[H Richard]

A lot depends on just how deep those "dots" are, ( and they do look pretty deep). If you just "have to" do something, and you have a buddy that is a master Tig welder) I'd have him fill the writing, then grind it smooth and bead blast and blue or cerama-coat. Personally I wouldn't touch it just use it.

 

[Chuck24]

Find an engraver and find out if he can turn it into some other pattern kinda like a tatoo coverup.

 

[Comrad]

How's your wood working skills?

I would find or make some grips that came up high enough to cover it.

 

[686-380]

It's a shooter, with an obvious history. I'd cherish it as-is. Heck, it might increase its value over time.

Congratulations on this find.