Hand wanted for 629-4

atlatl

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Hoping someone here might have a hand they were willing to sell. I would like a .097" thick hand ideally - I know they vary a little from the factory and I hope that installing one a few thou thicker than the one I have may cure my SLIGHTLY slow timed mountain gun.

I know I could purchase an oversize Power Custom hand but they are too thick and would require a LOT of fitting ... just hoping to get lucky with an original factory hand that is slightly thicker than mine.

Thank you.
 
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My current hand is .094 and also seems to be aggressively beveled at the tip in comparison to my other 629, my window measures .0985 so I thought asking for one at .097 would be the way to go since I can aways stone it down slightly if needed. I would consider purchasing a .096" thick hand if .097 was not available.


Thank you.
 
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I am not as knowledgeable as many people here but I am a proponent of only the minimum amount of change to accomplish my goal. I would try .001", change first, as protocall design seems to suggest. Part of that philosophy is that there is a certain amount of play required for many things to function smoothly and reliably.
 
Peening the ratchets might be a better solution.

I have peened the two of the ratchets and it did improve the slowest two chambers. The revolver functions fine when fired double action but is slightly slow in both double and single action (worse) when a little drag placed on the cylinder.

As I have two of the same model, it is easy to note the difference between the slow one and the other one.

I agree that changing by only 1-2 thou makes the most sense- I just wanted to have some wiggle room; I can alway make it thinner if necessary.

I appreciate the replies and advice. Should anyone have a .096-.097" hand they are willing to sell please message me.

Thank you.
 
I hope you can find a wider hand. In the meantime, you can bend the current one inward slightly. The hand won't bend, but the pivot pin at the bottom will. This will advance the timing some. When the cylinder locks up, the hand will go out around the ratchet to finish the stroke.

You can see what it's doing by looking into the hand window from the back with the sideplate off. You will want to do all this with the mainspring and hammer out. You can leave the rebound slide and spring in to facilitate the movements.
 
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