Help a Newbie out, my 686-6
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BobR1
Member
Someone will chime in with all the Change's after a while.
This is about all I can think of, and I think I am fairly accurate.
The 686-4 was the last of the Forged Parts, and the last with the Hammer mounted Firing Pin. Considered to be the BEST 686.
The 686-5 was the first with MIM Parts, and the first with the Floating Firing Pin.
The 686-6 Has the Lock. Not sure of any other changes.
Bob
This is about all I can think of, and I think I am fairly accurate.
The 686-4 was the last of the Forged Parts, and the last with the Hammer mounted Firing Pin. Considered to be the BEST 686.
The 686-5 was the first with MIM Parts, and the first with the Floating Firing Pin.
The 686-6 Has the Lock. Not sure of any other changes.
Bob
Thanks Bob. Mine has the firing pin on the hammer so it's a 686-4 and one of the earlier ones?
-Mark
EDIT I thought on the crane the numbers were stamped "686-6" but I was wrong. How do I know which "dash" I have?
Thanks everyone
-Mark
EDIT I thought on the crane the numbers were stamped "686-6" but I was wrong. How do I know which "dash" I have?
Thanks everyone
Last edited:
Hillbilly77
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686 (1980) - First production.
-1 (1986) - Radius stud package.
1987 - M-stamp recall
-2 (1987) - Change hammer nose & bushing.
-3 (1988) - New yoke retention system.
-4 (1993) - Change rear sight leaf & extractor.
-5 (1997) - Different frame design eliminated cylinder stop stud, changed to MIM parts.
-6 (2001) - Internal Lock.
-7 (2002) - Performance center variation in .38 Super.
The dash-number will be located to the right of the model number under the cylinder yoke.
It will say 686-1 or -2, etc. if there is no dash, your gun is an original 686 no-dash (or pre-dash).
EDIT - If you post your serial number and X out the last 2 numbers if you want (like this - AAA 00XX), we can help to date your gun.
-1 (1986) - Radius stud package.
1987 - M-stamp recall
-2 (1987) - Change hammer nose & bushing.
-3 (1988) - New yoke retention system.
-4 (1993) - Change rear sight leaf & extractor.
-5 (1997) - Different frame design eliminated cylinder stop stud, changed to MIM parts.
-6 (2001) - Internal Lock.
-7 (2002) - Performance center variation in .38 Super.
The dash-number will be located to the right of the model number under the cylinder yoke.
It will say 686-1 or -2, etc. if there is no dash, your gun is an original 686 no-dash (or pre-dash).
EDIT - If you post your serial number and X out the last 2 numbers if you want (like this - AAA 00XX), we can help to date your gun.
Last edited:
Research Nerd
Member
If you have a 686 no dash, then you've really got a nice revolver. I've got the dash 6 version and love it.
Enjoy your new revolver,
Enjoy your new revolver,
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
I have a 686 no dash as well, and you should know that there was a recall for a modification on the no dash. If yours has had the factory work completed, there will be an "M" stamped somewhere around the model number, more than likely. If it hasn't had the work done, S&W will do it for no cost to you, including shipping. Call them to set it up if you so desire. Flapjack.
No "M" on mine. What was the recall for?
Bought this new in the early 80s, sold it about 5-6 years ago, and just bought it back from the guy I originally sold it to. He put less than 50rds through it.
Paid $400 to get her back, box and all.
Bought this new in the early 80s, sold it about 5-6 years ago, and just bought it back from the guy I originally sold it to. He put less than 50rds through it.
Paid $400 to get her back, box and all.
Did you break even? My first gun was a 686-4 6" bought new in 1994, still have it and looks just about new. I put a set of smooth targets that I bought from a forum member, and looks magnificent. Glad you got it back.
