Help! How do I put this back together?

Iram

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2009
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
I just bought a used S&W 910 today. Took it apart to clean, and I can't seem to reassemble it.

I've got the barrel, recoil spring, and guide rod back in the slide. I put the slide back on the frame (pushing down three pins in the back of the frame that stick up), but it won't move far emough back to re-insert the slide stop. No mater how much force I use, the slide won't move back from a normal "in battery" position.

I've tried following this video, but I'm stuck at 1:56. The pins are down, but the slide won't move any farther back than this:
img2445k.jpg


Any suggestions?

Serial number is VCU2### if that matters.

EDIT: With the slide back on the frame (as in the picture above), I can't rotate the safety/decocker onto the "safe" position. If the slide is not on the frame, the safety rotates normally.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
cock the hammer and see of it helps

That doesn't seem to make a difference.

The gun didn't come with a manual, but I'm going through the manual for my S&W 908 (which never gave me this kind of trouble) and not finding much.
 
More pictures

img2446d.jpg

img2447h.jpg

img2448bu.jpg

img2449t.jpg

img2452n.jpg

img2453f.jpg

img2453er.jpg

I can partially insert the slide release, but it doesn't go all the way in and I don't want to try forcing it.
img2454cz.jpg

img2455q.jpg
 
Ok, I may be getting somewhere.

I tried re-assembling w/o the recoil spring, and it went on. It got caught for a second in the same place as above, but then slide back (quickly!) when I put a little force on it.

Is there anything obviously wrong with this picture?
img2458r.jpg


It looks like the previous owner actually polished the outside of the barrel. Most of the barrel (except for areas I'd expect to see wear on) has almost a mirror shine.
 
Would it make sense to just replace the whole recoil spring and guide rod?

EDIT: One more picture.
img2459uo.jpg

It looks like the guide rod is lined up in the slide, at least to me.

I've got to go to work in about 2 hours, I'm going to take a nap and look at this again in the morning.
 
Last edited:
Watch this video on take down of the 4506. It's not much if any different than yours. Sometimes you have to take a small screwdriver and gently push that one particular arm down as some seem to be especially aggravating to push down with the thumb nail. I have one like that. Just a gently push is all that's needed if your fingernail won't work. That smallest arm(or pin) is not going down all the way. I have had trouble with my 4506 occasionally with it.

Watch especially from about 3:00 on through the end of the video. It's a good video but a bit out of sink or slow with the video speed.

YouTube - Smith & Wesson Mod 4506 advanced takedown
 
Watch this video on take down of the 4506. It's not much if any different than yours. Sometimes you have to take a small screwdriver and gently push that one particular arm down as some seem to be especially aggravating to push down with the thumb nail. I have one like that. Just a gently push is all that's needed if your fingernail won't work. That smallest arm(or pin) is not going down all the way. I have had trouble with my 4506 occasionally with it.

Watch especially from about 3:00 on through the end of the video. It's a good video but a bit out of sink or slow with the video speed.

YouTube - Smith & Wesson Mod 4506 advanced takedown

Thanks. I'm watching it now.

The initial "Don't be stupid" is a great way to start a video.
 
I don't think it's those pins/arms near the hammer. I've already got to push them down to put the slide on as far as I'm getting; I just can't get it to move back beyond normal "at rest" (slide forward) position.
 
Iram, is the slide locking lever going in all the way? I just stripped my neighbor's 6906 and I could only get it to go all the way in after lining it up with the slide notch. This notch servers to purposes. First, the locking lever slides into it to lock the slide back and second it allows you to remove or install the locking lever.

Also, the recoil spring notch is the really small half moon cutout on the barrel. It's so small that I didn't believe it would hold the tension but it does.

Take your time you will figure this out.

Let us know your progress.
 
Turn the guide rod and recoil spring end for end. The small end goes through the hole in the front of the slide and the large end seats in the notch in front of the chamber housing.
 
Iram, is the slide locking lever going in all the way? I just stripped my neighbor's 6906 and I could only get it to go all the way in after lining it up with the slide notch. This notch servers to purposes. First, the locking lever slides into it to lock the slide back and second it allows you to remove or install the locking lever.

Also, the recoil spring notch is the really small half moon cutout on the barrel. It's so small that I didn't believe it would hold the tension but it does.

Take your time you will figure this out.

Let us know your progress.
No, the lever won't go all the way in. I can't move the slide back far enough.
 
Turn the guide rod and recoil spring end for end. The small end goes through the hole in the front of the slide and the large end seats in the notch in front of the chamber housing.

I've got the recoil spring/guide in the same direction that I use it on my S&W 908, so I don't think it's the direction.

Not to mention, I don't think I could physically get the recoil spring/guide rod installed in the slide backwards.
 
Ok, I just came dangerously close to sending my guide rod flying through the screen on a $2k laptop. I think it's time to take a break from this problem.

Do any of you think a new recoil spring or guide rod would solve the problem?

I tried removing the recoil spring, and I was able to re-assemble the pistol (had to hold it upside down to keep it all in place though). Obviously this isn't a solution, just a data point.
 
Back
Top