Help identifying this revolvers production range

Buddiiee

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Hello. I was wondering if anyone could shed any light on this revolver. No one can make out the serial number but they have guesses. Maybe along with the pictures the experts here could help me. All I want to know is the year range this might be in.
They said they think the number inside the grips 613280 and on the butt/cylinder was either 613280 or N13280. To me the number on the cylinder looks to be R or N, 13289 but I've no clue. Any clues when adding up other unique attributes that only you guys see that us laymen do not?
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So!

Made in U.S.A. on the frame. Barrel shaped extractor rod end. Long throw hammer. Threaded hammer pivot stud. Service stocks from the 1930s. All these agree with a serial number of 613280. I'd say that is your serial number.

It is much too early a revolver to have an N prefix in the serial number. Moreover, it is a K frame revolver, which never had an N. The only possible prefix would be a V and it clearly does not have one of those.
 
I can't find any date ranging type websites that allude to serial numbers with no letter prefix except the pre war N frames :(

Am I correct in assuming that 1. from my limited research that those grips are definitely pre 1941? and if that's true then 2. since the serial numbers we feel MAY be matching (grips and frame) that these grips are factory?
 
I think you need to get away from using Photobucket. There are far better free (and unobtrusive) hosting services. I personally use IMGUR. It is definitely a 1930s M&P, and their SNs did not have a letter prefix. SN 613280 would place its likely shipping date somewhere in the 1930 to 1935 range (unsold guns piled up in factory inventory during the Great Depression). If you think it's worth the $100 cost, you could order a historical letter which would provide an exact shipping date.
 
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Oh ok, I will try IMGUR then. Photobucket's a tad bit of a pain to use anyhow. Thanks for all the info sir! :) I appreciate it.
 
I think you need to get away from using Photobucket. There are far better free (and unobtrusive) hosting services. I personally use IMGUR. It is definitely a 1930s M&P, and their SNs did not have a letter prefix. SN 613280 would place its likely shipping date somewhere in the 1930 to 1935 range (unsold guns piled up in factory inventory during the Great Depression). If you think it's worth the $100 cost, you could order a historical letter which would provide an exact shipping date.

Wait, what do you see (besides the s/n) that dates this to the 30's? I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
 
Wait, what do you see (besides the s/n) that dates this to the 30's? I'm trying to learn as much as I can.

The shape of the ejector rod knob indicates 1927 to 1947, and the grip panel pattern, if original, 1930 to 1941. The small logo on the left means 1920 to 1936. So all three of these parameters confirm the serial and approximate date as given previously.
 
The std. catalogue of S&W 4th. edition is a valuable tool for your journey into S&W knowledge....well worth the money! that revolver would have numbers to research in 6 different locations, you may want to verify that. these guys forgot more than I know, and they have you as close as possible, without a letter
 
I also wanted to chime in one more small detail to help Buddiee learn . After ww2 they started stamping a 4 line Marcas registradas on the right side of gun instead of the 1 line Made in u.s.a. It was slowly phased in after the war so if you ever see a S&W revolver with only made in u.s.a. on right side you know it is from before 1950 (keep in mind there were always exceptions). The long style action also is indicator of of pre war vs. post war. If you examine what the hammer looks like on a revolver from 1970 and then compare it to the way your hammer looks on your gun there, you will notice a BIG difference. Again this change was slowly phased in after WW2. The best way to learn is to go out and buy the book "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 4th edition" it will be a guide for learning a LOT about S&W guns and it has all the serial ranges, all the different models broken down as well as the whole evolution of the models and history going way back from model #1 all the way up to the early 2000's. Hope this helps and is not too confusing!
 
Ah I see. Yea, I was looking at a gun with that spanish on it as well. That S&W book's expensive BUT, now that I have one now, I will definitely get that book. I like to dive in as deep as possible about the firearms I own, especially the older ones. Thanks a lot guys!
 
What about the assembly number under the crane? Are those catalogged by collectors and can they help out any?
 
What about the assembly number under the crane? Are those catalogged by collectors and can they help out any?

Not as far as the age or anything else about the gun is concerned. They were no larger than five digits and re-used. They can help determine whether the three components where they are found, on the yoke (what S&W calls the part you refer to as crane, which is Coltspeak), in the yoke cut-out of the frame, and on the backside of the sideplate, were originally assembled together as a gun.
 
What about the assembly number under the crane? Are those catalogged by collectors and can they help out any?

Nope! The assembly numbers are meaningless once the gun was built and out the door. But there are 5 locations to look for when buying a pre war S&W revolver. There should be a serial number under barrel on the flat area with sometimes a b there also to signify the gun was to be blued. This location is important if buying a nickel gun as there should be NO b if gun is nickel and sometimes you will find an N there on a nickel gun. Also the cylinder face should be a matching serial, under the ejector star (tough to see a light is needed) on the butt of revolver and and the edge of the crane for this one you have to open cylinder and look down a chamber with flashlight to see the number on edge of inner crane. All these parts were fitted together at factory then taken apart for polish and bluing or nickel then reassembled at end. Don't forget the inside of right grip too is stamped with serial. These are from back when highly skilled gunsmiths manufactured and assembled the guns. Later in the 60's on up to today all parts were machined within specs. to fit together on any frame.
 
WOW you guys are book reading S&W collectors lol. You know old Smiths like I know my M16's or knives. I'll get there too; once I have that book in hand it'll go on my nightstand and will start getting committed to my memory. Good to know. Thanks guys!
 
No one pointed to an exact (or even approximate) production date?

Based on the number 613280, it was likely made in about 1931-'32. S & W never shipped in serial number order, so a gun with a later number may have left the factory before one with an earlier number. The sales or ship date is how S & W determines a gun's age.

Also, gun sales dropped quite a bit during the Great Depression, so unsold inventory increased quite a bit. If you obtained a letter of authenticity this one may have shipped any time during the 1930 decade:

http://www.swhistoricalfoundation.com/swhf_letter.pdf
 
My Massachusetts State Police marked M&P with a serial number in the high 627,000 range shipped on 6/12/34 so I suspect murphydog's estimate is very close.
 
No one pointed to an exact (or even approximate) production date?

Based on the number 613280, it was likely made in about 1931-'32.

I'd say 1930 for manufacture. I have on my list four serial numbers greater than 613280 shipping at various dates in 1930. Therefore it could not have been made later than 1930. That's why I gave 1930-1935 as a shipping date range. From 1936 onward, I don't show any SNs that low on my list (which doesn't mean there weren't any).
 
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Well that's cool as the older the better for me. I love really old guns; I think the history they carry is just fascinating. Thanks for everything guys. I think I'm going to get that letter from S&W as well, just to document some of it's history.
 
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