Help needed on cleaning cylinders

[gunpoorboy]

I just purchased a new S&W Classic Model 29. Shortly before that I purchased a new 7 shot .357 Night Guard. Between the two I have close to $2000 invested. After shooting both of these guns I see that there are powder burns at the end of each cylinder/cartridege hole. I sent my .357 back to S&W and the Smith called me and said that this was a powder burn and could not be cleaned off the cylinder. Both of my guns have these powder burns. Has anyone else had this problem and do they know how to get these marks off the cylinders? The smith told me he could give me a new cylinder but the same would happend the first time I fired it. I find it hard to believe that S&W would sell you a $1000 gun that the paint burns after the first shooting. What am I over looking here. Please--someone help me.

 

[gunpoorboy]

I just purchased a new S&W Classic Model 29. Shortly before that I purchased a new 7 shot .357 Night Guard. Between the two I have close to $2000 invested. After shooting both of these guns I see that there are powder burns at the end of each cylinder/cartridege hole. I sent my .357 back to S&W and the Smith called me and said that this was a powder burn and could not be cleaned off the cylinder. Both of my guns have these powder burns. Has anyone else had this problem and do they know how to get these marks off the cylinders? The smith told me he could give me a new cylinder but the same would happend the first time I fired it. I find it hard to believe that S&W would sell you a $1000 gun that the paint burns after the first shooting. What am I over looking here. Please--someone help me.

 

[Tom M]

It's normal. It will happen every time you fire the gun. Brush as much off with a tooth brush and some solvent as you can, and forget it.

 

[arfmel]

Tom M is right. It is the nature of a revolver to have the fouling marks you describe. Don't worry about it.

 

[laytonj1]

As the others have said, it's normal. All revolvers do this, not just S&W. It's the result of the gap between the front of the cylinder and barrel. You can remove the burn rings from a stainless steel cylinder with a mild abrasive cloth or scrubing with solvents but other finishes (blue, nickel, etc) can be damaged from using any type of abrasive. Not much you can do except live with it or never shoot them.

Jim

 

[Gress]

I was struggling with same issue as I too recently spent $1K+ for NOS PC 66.
After 200 rounds through it it took me a lot of reading and even more of cleaning to only get to this point

Rubber eraser was the most useful tool.

I doubt I will ever spent so much effort on this again.

 

[panamajack310]

Hi, you can use several methods I use a lead removing cloth you can buy them at brownells or any other kind of shooters supply store..

 

[Revolver King]

I have heard that a lead removing cloth does a good job.

 

[sipowicz]

Some say useing a lead removing cloth like lead away on a blued gun will take the finish off...maybe, maybe not...I have not tried it on mine...I have solvents that make my SP101 and chrome 442 look like brand new...but I don't touch my 19-4 with them....I just use CLP or Hoppes...since the marks are black on a black, I don't scrub too hard and don't worry about them....

 

[c good]

Do Not, I repeat DO NOT use lead remover cloth on any blued gun! I found out the hard way after inquiring about this a few years ago. I just live with the carbon rings now. Stainless clean up nicely with the lead remover cloth and some Flitz polish. c good

 

[user]

Use Simichrome or Collinite Metal Wax to get off the crud; then use Collinte Insulating Wax on the surface to make it easier to clean next time. Those products are ok for hot-blued guns, but will take off cold (brush-on) bluing.

 

[Guest]

Lead away cloths work great, but don't use them on blue, and only limited use on nickel guns. These were made for stainless owners, they work great and will make the gun look unfired if you do your job.

For blued guns, my method is to take the cylinder out and drop it in a coffee can full of Hoppes #9. Let it sit overnight and brush it some with a brass or nylon brush. Soak some more and do it again, after several applications of the brush it will start to look original again. The dark burn marks are an offshoot of shooting these darn things - uck...!

 

[Dale53]

Hey! Good people! These are revolvers! They are not the Mona Lisa. You shoot them and you get what has been described here. I shoot mine, and I shoot them a LOT. I live with it. You know, it doesn't hurt a bit, either...

I prefer stainless steel but I have a number of blued ones and I don't worry about the rings on ANY of them. When cleaning time comes, I use normal solvent (in my case it's Ed's Red) and what wipes off, does and what doesn't wipe off doesn't.

Welcome to the real world!

All said in fun, good people. All in fun..

Dale53

 

[JayDubya]

Perhaps you have noticed that a groove is being cut around the cylinder. All S&W revolvers do this, because the cylinder stop is designed to drag as the cylinder turns to ensure full insertion. After a while this groove stops growing, so forget about it. Also near where the top strap joins the frame directly above the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone, a "flame-cut" groove will form. After a bit, this groove will cease to grow also, so forget about it. This is part of breaking in.
Cordially, Jack

 

[DocAlamo]

Well said, Dale53!!

 

[gunpoorboy]

Thanks for all the comments but are we talking about the same thing. I'm not making reference to the very bottom of the cylinder, but on the side of the cylinder at the lower most point. Sort of like when the flash comes out it blows back over the side of the cylinder. I don't know how to put a picture on here but if a couple of you experts could send me an e-mail address I could send you a pic of what I'm talking about. Thanks [email protected]

 

[BruceM]

If you were shooting swagged lead or cast bullets, it's lead fouling-silver in color and hard to remove. It's normal.

B.

 

[Dale53]

Gunpoorboy;
As Bruce states, that is from lead fouling. That will clean off without damaging the bluing IF you are careful. I use a cleaning patch with a good solvent and rub the patch on the spots. It's best to let the spots soak a bit then rub briskly. They WILL come off.

This is caused when the expanding gases escape from the cylinder/barrel interface and bounce off the top strap against the cylinder carrying lead particles with the flash.

Dale53

 

[gunpoorboy]

Will Hoppes #9 copper solvent do the trick or should I use something stronger?

 

[Dale53]

I use Ed's Red:

http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm

Dale53