Help with checking a safety hammerless

[fungunnin]

I am going to look at a safety hammerless tomorrow and I know little about these prewar top breaks. I am very familiar with hand ejectors but unsure of what to look for when function testing and inspecting top breaks prior to buying. Any tips you have might offer? What features are more/less desirable and what might be common problems to look for? As of right now all I know is it is a 3 or 4" blue finish mod 2? 5 shot hammerless topbreak 38S&W ... asking 300.
Thanks guys

 

[fungunnin]

I am going to look at a safety hammerless tomorrow and I know little about these prewar top breaks. I am very familiar with hand ejectors but unsure of what to look for when function testing and inspecting top breaks prior to buying. Any tips you have might offer? What features are more/less desirable and what might be common problems to look for? As of right now all I know is it is a 3 or 4" blue finish mod 2? 5 shot hammerless topbreak 38S&W ... asking 300.
Thanks guys

 

[mmaher94087]

fungunnin, there aren't many problems with these Safeties short of broken stocks from improper removal techniques. Occasionally the firing pin will not rebound (broken spring) or once-in-a-while the cylinder won't unlock and turn due to a broken split-spring. Mike

 

[rayj101]

Fungunnin, I think the main problem would be that the pistol is "loose" - ie the bbl/cylinder assembly and the frame assembly don't lock together firmly. As for a broken firing pin rebound spring, a partial ball point pen spring might work. I bought a firing pin and a hand from Jack First and there are other sites for parts. I think oldwestgunsmith (who is linked to this site frequently) also has parts. Rambling a bit (again!) but to sum up, check the lock up and the frame/barrel tightness. Regards, Ray

 

[rickjames629]

Judging by the date of your original post, I assume you already looked at the gun, so I won't offer up any advice.

I will ask...What did you see? Did you purchase? Post pictures if you are able.