my grandaughters boyfriend inherited a .303 Enfield rifle..he cleans bore,oils it, fires 2 rounds with no issues. 3rd round fires and bolt comes back aprox. half inch and bolt locks up..not tight as there is slight play in bolt,and the empty brass is loose in the chamber. says he pulled it apart best he could ..no luck..I have no military arm knowledge. thought I'd run it by here before he spends any$$$...there are some markings, A0 13 251.....M1943....N04 MK1...any ideas? thank you
Help with locked up LeeEnfield .303
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I’ve never even handled an Enfield, but I would speculate that if the bolt moved backward a half inch when firing, something very bad has happened to the locking lugs. I would definitely consult a qualified gunsmith.
OP
I'm not sure it moved back during firing, but possibly after firing when trying to extract the empty cartridge it only moved back 1/2"...sorry I didn't clarify that! I'll get that answer!....spoke to him and found out that after the third shot, he lifted the bolt and it moved back aprox. 1/2" and locked up, its not tight,but moves back and forth just a fraction...cant move bolt handle or anything..
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Junkenstien
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If its a mk4no1* the front of the bolt turns to fit a groove to take the bolt out dont know if it can turn or otherwise lock up dont see how but there is a cutout you line it up with.
Make sure the Safety is pushed down/forward (OFF) all the way
Might just be the pic,,but pic #2 makes it look like the brass case head is kind of mangled.
Plus the Extractor isn't engaged with the case rim?
Was there a case separation maybe?,,Some brass fragments jammed betw the bolt body and raceway on the left side perhaps.
Try pulling the trigger and holding it there.
(Does pulling the trigger feel like it has spring tension to it?
Likewise does the magazine release still have spring tension to it?
These work off the same V spring...
Then give the bolt handle a good couple of raps with the wooden handle from a hammer to try and open the bolt.
Can't really see too much else in those pics.
If the bolt lifts all the way up and can be moved backwards (open) any amt at all, the bolt locking lug at the rear is disengaged from the frame cut-out.
Might just be the pic,,but pic #2 makes it look like the brass case head is kind of mangled.
Plus the Extractor isn't engaged with the case rim?
Was there a case separation maybe?,,Some brass fragments jammed betw the bolt body and raceway on the left side perhaps.
Try pulling the trigger and holding it there.
(Does pulling the trigger feel like it has spring tension to it?
Likewise does the magazine release still have spring tension to it?
These work off the same V spring...
Then give the bolt handle a good couple of raps with the wooden handle from a hammer to try and open the bolt.
Can't really see too much else in those pics.
If the bolt lifts all the way up and can be moved backwards (open) any amt at all, the bolt locking lug at the rear is disengaged from the frame cut-out.
OP
thanks, I'll send these to him..any more ideas??
Safety First!!!!!
Is he absolutely, positively, without any doubt...SURE that the bullet actually left the barrel and impacted downrange when he fired that 3rd shot????
If not sure....take it to a qualified gunsmith right away.
If he is sure then next I would check the ammo being used. He may have some rounds remaining. Hopefully the ammo is factory brand, and you can tell what the headstamp is (are or was). It may be surplus left over from WWI, WWII, or beyond, or it may even be re-loads with unknown powder type and charge amount, wrong bullet weight, or wrong primer type or size.
Unfortunately, the above type mistakes are seen every now and then especially with estate sales, and inheritances.
It appears from the photos that the gun you have has been "sporterized" but whether done professionally, or by someone else is unknown. The top of the receiver just over the chamber appears drilled and tapped, but how deep and could that affect chamber pressures?
Was he shooting with rounds in the magazine, or individually working the action, inserting one round, etc.?
Attached pics are my sporterized Enfield. showing the bolt fully retracted, closed, and you can see the forward lugs and rear lug and these move very easily, even with little or no lubrication in normal operation. Yours do not it appears so yes...there clearly is a jam of one or more lugs not in their rail.
If sure the round fired leaving only a empty case (even split) in the chamber...you might try closing the bolt to see if it will go home.
Let us know if you do get a resolution to the problem.
Is he absolutely, positively, without any doubt...SURE that the bullet actually left the barrel and impacted downrange when he fired that 3rd shot????
If not sure....take it to a qualified gunsmith right away.
If he is sure then next I would check the ammo being used. He may have some rounds remaining. Hopefully the ammo is factory brand, and you can tell what the headstamp is (are or was). It may be surplus left over from WWI, WWII, or beyond, or it may even be re-loads with unknown powder type and charge amount, wrong bullet weight, or wrong primer type or size.
Unfortunately, the above type mistakes are seen every now and then especially with estate sales, and inheritances.
It appears from the photos that the gun you have has been "sporterized" but whether done professionally, or by someone else is unknown. The top of the receiver just over the chamber appears drilled and tapped, but how deep and could that affect chamber pressures?
Was he shooting with rounds in the magazine, or individually working the action, inserting one round, etc.?
Attached pics are my sporterized Enfield. showing the bolt fully retracted, closed, and you can see the forward lugs and rear lug and these move very easily, even with little or no lubrication in normal operation. Yours do not it appears so yes...there clearly is a jam of one or more lugs not in their rail.
If sure the round fired leaving only a empty case (even split) in the chamber...you might try closing the bolt to see if it will go home.
Let us know if you do get a resolution to the problem.
Attachments
I had a Lithgow arsenal refurbished Mk III Enfield once that was a real beauty, but it had a slight bulge in the chamber that made initial extraction very sticky.
Not withstanding above concerns about ammo etc, if the bolt has come back 1/2” there is no ammo related extraction issue.
You can be paranoid and worry about a squib as well, but a cleaning rod down the bore will quickly confirm or deny that concern. It ain’t rocket surgery.
——
I currently only have a Mk 5, but it shares the Mk 4 action.
At about that point in the bolt retraction two things come into play.
- There are tabs that retain the magazine follower. Removing the magazine will ensure that some type of failure there isn’t blocking the bolt. (Although the bolt is smooth on the bottom in that location so there shouldn’t be anything to cause problems.)
- at that point in the extraction process the extension on the cocking piece starts to ride up over the sear and the trigger snaps forward to its reset position. That strongly suggests something is amiss there.
A misalignment or loose pin in the trigger group is the most likely issue. *do not under any circumstances start whacking on the bolt to drive the bolt back*. That’s the worst advice I’ve seen in a long, long time. That’s how parts and bolt handles get broken.
Instead, remove the magazine, remove the cross screw at the rear of the trigger guard, and remove the action screw at the front of the trigger guard. That will let you remove the trigger guard and the trigger assembly. That should allow the bolt to be extracted and removed.
If the cocking piece under the bolt has bent or fractured, that should then also be visible (although that’s unlikely).
Not withstanding above concerns about ammo etc, if the bolt has come back 1/2” there is no ammo related extraction issue.
You can be paranoid and worry about a squib as well, but a cleaning rod down the bore will quickly confirm or deny that concern. It ain’t rocket surgery.
——
I currently only have a Mk 5, but it shares the Mk 4 action.
At about that point in the bolt retraction two things come into play.
- There are tabs that retain the magazine follower. Removing the magazine will ensure that some type of failure there isn’t blocking the bolt. (Although the bolt is smooth on the bottom in that location so there shouldn’t be anything to cause problems.)
- at that point in the extraction process the extension on the cocking piece starts to ride up over the sear and the trigger snaps forward to its reset position. That strongly suggests something is amiss there.
A misalignment or loose pin in the trigger group is the most likely issue. *do not under any circumstances start whacking on the bolt to drive the bolt back*. That’s the worst advice I’ve seen in a long, long time. That’s how parts and bolt handles get broken.
Instead, remove the magazine, remove the cross screw at the rear of the trigger guard, and remove the action screw at the front of the trigger guard. That will let you remove the trigger guard and the trigger assembly. That should allow the bolt to be extracted and removed.
If the cocking piece under the bolt has bent or fractured, that should then also be visible (although that’s unlikely).
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Sid V.
Member
These guns are notories for exssesive head space they make different length bolt heads to fix the problem. May have a case
seperation. Head space must be set by a gunsmith.
Dennis V.
seperation. Head space must be set by a gunsmith.
Dennis V.
GypsmJim
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First and foremost, ensure that there is no live round in the chamber. If there is, don't mess with it until a gunsmith can look at it.
Be sure the safety is off.
Try pulling the trigger at the same time pulling the bolt back.
Try pulling the cocking piece back to cock the firing pin.
Near the rear sight is a raised part of the receiver that has a slotted port to enable using a stripper clip. On the right side just behind that is a small button. That is used to slip the bolt head out of the receiver groove to enable removing the bolt. Jiggle that button or press down to see if it is jamming the bolt.
The pics aren't too clear. It looks like the brass case may have separated? Brass parts blocking the bolt? Try simply tapping the bolt back with a rubber mallet.
If the ammo was military surplus, especially if it was Indian, throw it out immediately. They used cordite, not ball powder. Those old rounds are dangerous.
Be sure the safety is off.
Try pulling the trigger at the same time pulling the bolt back.
Try pulling the cocking piece back to cock the firing pin.
Near the rear sight is a raised part of the receiver that has a slotted port to enable using a stripper clip. On the right side just behind that is a small button. That is used to slip the bolt head out of the receiver groove to enable removing the bolt. Jiggle that button or press down to see if it is jamming the bolt.
The pics aren't too clear. It looks like the brass case may have separated? Brass parts blocking the bolt? Try simply tapping the bolt back with a rubber mallet.
If the ammo was military surplus, especially if it was Indian, throw it out immediately. They used cordite, not ball powder. Those old rounds are dangerous.
A wack to the bolt handle with a piece of wood (a wooden hammer handle) won't harm a thing on an SMLE.
It might break a flimsy Rem 700 with it's silver soldered bolt handle attachment.
The Tommy's used to jump on the bolt handles to open them at times.
The Ross wasn't the only 303 that jammed in the mud.
Both got the 'OC'.. Oversized Chamber.. work to try and avoid the functioning issue in the gook.
Done with the bolt 'open' (locking lugs disengaged) and you already see that it can move rearward somewhat, and you pull and hold the trigger down (ser disengaged) as I stated,, you don't have to prove you are Ted Williams when doing it.
You are just trying to see if there may be something like brass debris from a separated case in the left raceway jamming the bolt.
All pointed out in the post.
The action is D&T'd for a standard Weaver TO-1 one piece base. Nothing strange there. Thousands of them in use.
Bad ammo, case separation. maybe 303Savage instead of 303Brit,,seen that before but it usually just expands to fill the chamber.
Reloads FL resized a couple times in SMLE's can easily separate. That case head in the pic just looks ugly. OP says it's loose in the chamber and moves around.
Extractor isn't hanging on to it. So something happened there when it went bang. I'm guessing some brass and gas came rearward,,but only a guess.
Take the forend off. Real easy on a sporterized SMLE. No extra hardware up front.
Take the safety off.
Take out the simple Ejector screw from the left wall.
Remove the sear, sear/mag latch spring, etc.
Then you only have the bolt assembly sitting in the recv'r.
If it's stuck in position,,then something in the bolt raceway is jamming it in position.
It swung open all the way and moves back and forth this far..
OFT II
US Veteran
It looks like the firing pin is at half cock. Try to pull it back to full cock and see if that frees the bolt.
nicky4968
Member
If there is ammunition in the magazine, remove the magazine.
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