Help with new to me 19-3

rainyknight

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Happy Halloween to everyone. I recently found a homeless 19-3 that I had to take in. I am fairly up to date on semi-auto's but when it comes to revolvers, especially older ones I am out of my league. I was hoping you folks wouldn't mind letting me know what exactly I have and answer a couple of questions. I "think" just from other posts that the 9K28003 serial number puts it into the late 1970's. It has what I "think" are a target hammer, trigger and grips. The story is that a university turned in several firearms from their police force and among them were 4 19-3's, I happened in to my LGS in time to adopt the last one. Apparently two of them had the original boxes and paperwork with them. Timing is everything. There is some light rust on the side plate and some wear at the muzzle as well as a couple of places at the front edge of the cylinder.
How do I clean up the rust without damaging the bluing?
I have also noticed that when slowly cocking the hammer the cylinder doesn't always lock up before the hammer is at full cock. When you are more aggressive with cocking it locks up fine. Is this a timing issue and how difficult is it to address? Should this be something left to a competent gunsmith or can I do it myself?
Things might change once I clean it up as it is very dirty and there is no telling when the last time it was cleaned and oiled.
Sorry for the length of the post, just want to make sure I don't screw it up, lol.
 

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Target hammer, yes.
Target Stocks (Smith & Wesson called grips stocks), yes.
Target Trigger, I can't tell. The target trigger is wider than the hole in the frame the trigger emerges from on the finger pad.

I'd read up on how to safely remove a sideplate and then give it a good clean-out and lube before worrying about timing being off.

You can use some bronze wool to go after rust. I use mine oiled.
 
What you're describing as "timing",S&W calls carryup. Sounds like some wear has taken place and a very slightly thicker hand may be needed. However, before worrying about that, a check of yoke alignment and cylinder endplay is suggested.
 
I think when all is said and done - and there isn't much to be done - you will have a fine shooter. It's already been shot quite a bit from the looks of the recoil shield and the extractor rod missing most of it's finish. I have also had good success using a little copper wool and oil on small blemishes. Use a light hand. I also agree that a good internal cleaning might solve your lock up issue - or might not. If not, its an easy and inexpensive fix for a gunsmith. Enjoy.
 
It looks like the standard hammer and trigger to me. The target hammer and trigger of that time frame are a half inch wide. The standard trigger is grooved and .265 wide. Check the back of the barrel for a crack at the 6 o'clock position and check for forcing cone erosion. A lot of police guns get very little actual firing and a lot of holster time. Some get a lot of shooting!!

Your failure to properly carry up is an easy fix with the right experience and parts. But it is not always an easy fix, and sometimes requires some delicate work to get the ratchets all cut so that the carry up is consistent chamber to chamber. For this work, you need an experienced revolver smith, or old police revolver armorer. (probably not any young police revolver armorers anymore)
 
Thank you all for the advice. I will try the copper wool and oil for the finish and give it a good cleaning. I honestly don't know if the side plate has ever been off, the screws appear to be in great shape. I will be very careful to use the correct screwdriver, and I won't try to pry the side plate off. I have seen too many times.
 
I would soak it for a couple of days, crane open, in a zip lock bag of Kroil. Then lightly use bronze wool to remove any remaining rust. Then let it dry, before waxing with Ren wax. The difference will be night & day.
 
A good cleaning may solve the carry-up issue. If not, check for cylinder end-shake (forward/backward play) of the cylinder. There should be almost no movement. If there is, it can be easily corrected by a competent gunsmith/armorer.
Occasionally, they just need a good tune-up, just like a car. Enjoy it!!!
 
Targets Guy, thanks for the pics, nice looking 19-2. I now know that I have the standard grooved trigger and not the target one. Also have Kroil oil on the way from Midway.
 
After cleaning she looks a lot better.

Just want to give a thank you to all for your advice on cleaning and removing rust. Some Kroil oil and a penny did a great job of getting rid of the rust spots. A through cleaning smoothed up the action and took care of the minor issue with cylinder lockup. There is no noticeable cylinder play forward and backward and not much rotational play at full lock. The forcing cone looks good, no cracks that I can see and the gap is fairly tight.


I am planning on using some cold blueing to take care of the spots , I am deciding on either Birchwood Casey Super Blue or G96 Gun Blue. Does anyone have experience or an opinion on what would be best?
 

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rainyknight, that's a nice revolver there. I have what was my first S&W, a model 10-8, probably born in 1988. I bought it in '98 before my move into Pittsburgh from a neighboring county. Anyhow, it looks to have been an everyday carry; probably local PD. The gun came with target stocks with some rust/wear under them. I tried to clean it up with some of that B-C Super Blue and I probably did it wrong or something but the left side behind the cylinder release turned out like (garbage). Please be careful with it.
 
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