Herters 44 mag cases

mrdaputer

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i bought a box from Cabela's shot them up just fine. After I deprimed and tumbled them clean they are about impossible to put new primers in. All the other head stamp cases I have are no problem at all. Has anyone else had this problem with the Hertz cases?
 
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Herters at Cabelas is typically just Sellier & Bellot ammo rebranded.

I've never reloaded any of their 44 Mag cases though.
 
If you have a case chamfering tool, try using the inside chamferring side of the tool on the mouth of the primer pocket. I've never loaded S&B 44 brass but have loaded their 9MM and 357 Mag brass and I've found that the pocket edge on the S&B brass to be on the sharp side. Taking a few swipes at the primer pocket with my chamferring tool makes for a little more rounded edge which lets primers start much easier.
 
I have found the S&B cases to have very little if any chamfer on the primer pocket mouth and a bit tighter than other brass. I normally just chamfer the pocket mouth, just like I would to remove a military crimp, and that helps seating quite a bit...

I have found Herter's brass that normally use large primers to be made for small primers (I have a 45 Colt case w/Herters headstamp and a small primer pocket here on my desk). Not sure which calibers as I don't purchase factory ammo any more...
 
I have some range pickup S&B .45 ACP cases. Same story. Very tight primer pockets. Guess that is the reason someone left them at the range. I trashed them after almost flattening the primer trying to get them to get them to seat flush.
 
I have some range pickup S&B .45 ACP cases. Same story. Very tight primer pockets. Guess that is the reason someone left them at the range. I trashed them after almost flattening the primer trying to get them to get them to seat flush.
You can reload them with small pistol primers. Save them for the times you can't get large pistol primers , they will keep you going during primer shortages .

Ream and uniform the primer pockets and they will be just fine.
 
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Thank you all for your suggestions I will try some of your guy's tricks. If I have to I have a scrap bag I can toss them into. Not going to buy those again LOL
 
I use the Lee hand primer. With S&B brass, I usually have to wiggle the case around a little to get the primer centered in the primer pocket before I apply much pressure. Even then, somewhat more than the normal amount of thumb force is required to seat the primer.
 
All my new brass gets the edge burrs removed from the inside of the case mouth, then the primer pocket mouth edge chamfered using a chamfering tool. That seems to smooth things out. ;)

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All my new brass gets the edge burrs removed from the inside of the case mouth, then the primer pocket mouth edge chamfered using a chamfering tool. That seems to smooth things out. ;)

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Yep, agree. It's no big deal to lightly chamfer a case mouth and/or a primer pocket mouth and normally only needs to be done once. Just the other day I had some brand new Starline brass that had fairly sharp case mouths, so I put a countersink in my drill and lightly chamfered the case mouth and while I was at it I chamfered some primer pocket mouths, just a few thousandths, that were a bit tight. No big deal mainly because I am not a "production" reloader and a few seconds of prep is fine with me...
 
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Hard priming

Yep, agree. It's no big deal to lightly chamfer a case mouth and/or a primer pocket mouth and normally only needs to be done once. Just the other day I had some brand new Starline brass that had fairly sharp case mouths, so I put a countersink in my drill and lightly chamfered the case mouth and while I was at it I chamfered some primer pocket mouths, just a few thousandths, that were a bit tight. No big deal mainly because I am not a "production" reloader and a few seconds of prep is fine with me...

Ditto - both with S&B and new Starline have experienced hard to prime with a Lee Autoprime. Definitely S&B needs very small chamfer. The new Starline after it was fired once was easier second priming but did not need chambering from new. as a BTW - *-* is 455 and it will be interesting to see how many reloadings it will do as I only load light loads for all my 455s so will be keeping a close eye on this new brass.

Keep all this good info coming:-)
 
Have had more problems with Herter and Amerc brass than any other brands.
Both go straight to the scrap bucket as they are more problems than they are worth.
 
I put a uniflute in my drill and then swagged it a bit. I have them all primed. thanks again for the suggestions
 
I normally discard any S&B brass I happen to pick up. It isn't worth the effort to fight them.

If you bevel the mouth of the primer pocket with a chamfering tool, they load well. The primer pocket is a bit tight also, but after you reload it the first time they open up a hair and from then on they are no problem to reprime. I've found that S&B brass actually holds up very well under many reloads too.
 
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