HOLSTER MAKERS!. Lend me your knowledge.

[Smithsrevenge]

So I've decided to turn a Safariland Model 200 Level 1 duty holster, Into a concealable OWB holster.

This is for my Glock 22 btw.

I've removed the paddle rig for the duty belt.....leaving me 3 connection points to mount another belt system to.

I tried modifying the duty belt hook up to no avail "this safariland stuff is TOUGH".

So basically. I want to take this holster, which was meant to ride about 2 inches away from the body on a duty belt. And convert it to ride close to the body, at a forward cant......as a normal OWB holster for concealment.

Attached is a pic of what im working with for mounting surfaces. The two bolts in the center of the holster are mountable. So is the one in the middle ish part of the holster. Upper bolt holds everything together and lower bolt is the retention screw.



Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

About the only way I can see of making your plan work would be to fabricate a paddle. This would require matching the locations of the current attachment points precisely.

Paddles can be made of Kydex thermoplastic, which can be cut with standard shop tools then formed using a heat gun to the contours desired.

Paddles can also be made of heavy sheet metal (20-gauge works pretty well), then covered with leather (smooth or suede). Forming usually requires making a jig to create multiple angles.

Once the paddle is fabricated holes can be drilled in the exact locations to match those on the holster, then it can be mounted with machine screws to the existing hardware in the holster. Screw size, thread, and length will need to be an exact match. Notched lock washers may help to keep the screws firmly attached, avoiding the need to retighten periodically.

If the paddle design is well done it should keep the holster firmly in place and the holstered handgun close to the body. If not you may have a holster that moves around a lot, tips out from the body, etc.

Paddle designs are not known for best concealment, so you may be going down a long road toward disappointment with the results.

 

[george minze]

Send Ray at Lobo in Colo. He is a member here your question, then believe what he tells you....Sadley you really "can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear"..

 

[fat tom]

Send Ray at Lobo in Colo. He is a member here your question, then believe what he tells you....Sadley you really "can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear"..

Uh,you might want to read the post above yours George.
f.t.

 

[Smithsrevenge]

About the only way I can see of making your plan work would be to fabricate a paddle. This would require matching the locations of the current attachment points precisely.

Paddles can be made of Kydex thermoplastic, which can be cut with standard shop tools then formed using a heat gun to the contours desired.

Paddles can also be made of heavy sheet metal (20-gauge works pretty well), then covered with leather (smooth or suede). Forming usually requires making a jig to create multiple angles.

Once the paddle is fabricated holes can be drilled in the exact locations to match those on the holster, then it can be mounted with machine screws to the existing hardware in the holster. Screw size, thread, and length will need to be an exact match. Notched lock washers may help to keep the screws firmly attached, avoiding the need to retighten periodically.

If the paddle design is well done it should keep the holster firmly in place and the holstered handgun close to the body. If not you may have a holster that moves around a lot, tips out from the body, etc.

Paddle designs are not known for best concealment, so you may be going down a long road toward disappointment with the results.

Thanks :-D

I'll have to order some kydex. that seems to be the best route to go, I was thinking either that or heavy leather for a belt attachment but kydex seems cheaper and more pliable.

The drilling of the holes seems like the easy part........If kydex is formed incorrectly can it be re-heated and reformed?

Thanks again

 

[venomballistics]

Thanks :-D

I'll have to order some kydex. that seems to be the best route to go, I was thinking either that or heavy leather for a belt attachment but kydex seems cheaper and more pliable.

The drilling of the holes seems like the easy part........If kydex is formed incorrectly can it be re-heated and reformed?

Thanks again

yeah Kydex can be reworked. however I'd keep such things within the context of "an extra tickle" over a finished form.
As text based instruction is open to interpretation as to what "an extra tickle" might be, order enough Kydex to make at least 4 complete attempts .. it'll teach you more than I can tell you

 

[george minze]

I just read The text from Ray....I guess I'm getting old.....Thanks Tom