Home invasion proof doors?
- Thread starter o3rugby1
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McBear
Member
While they are not pretty, a steel door with steel frame from places like Lowe's or Home Depot helps. Take the screws that come with it to mount it to the house and throw them away. Get a dozen six to eight inch screws and put them deep into the frame of the house...all three sides.
Then, regular keyed door lock that is a deadbolt and another deadbolt at least 18" away [higher] from the first. It means you have to positively lock your door every time you leave but it is worth it. And from the inside, you just flip it locked. Don't get the cute vertical side windows next to your door...that just helps someone reach in and open your door.
You can do the same with Oak or Mahogany but it requires building up the frame really, really well so the dead bolts have a good, solid bite. Not as good as steel on steel.
Then, regular keyed door lock that is a deadbolt and another deadbolt at least 18" away [higher] from the first. It means you have to positively lock your door every time you leave but it is worth it. And from the inside, you just flip it locked. Don't get the cute vertical side windows next to your door...that just helps someone reach in and open your door.
You can do the same with Oak or Mahogany but it requires building up the frame really, really well so the dead bolts have a good, solid bite. Not as good as steel on steel.
A good solid core door or steel door. Good strong deadbolts. Ninety percent of the locks sold at big box home centers are NOT strong enough.
Your locks should be American made. Use a steel strike plate with three inch wood screws that reach the stud.
Someone, not sure of the company makes a storm door that has a security laminate film on the glass to prevent breakage.
Your local locksmith has items available that most people never even thought of. And most of these products are not that expensive and are well worth the money. But only if installed correctly!
Ask me how I know.
bp231986
Member
Someone wants in your house bad enough, steel door wont stop them. what will you do for the windows?
I plan on getting steel doors and making them kick proof somehow. I'll have to modify them in my shop. Something like cross bolts on a safe door, 4 or 5 per side.
Windows are a problem. I don't really want to do burglar bars but probably will.
For now my bedroom door is kick proof, so I sleep well at night. Alarm to alert me if someone enters the house while I'm asleep.
As I'm sitting here typing this I have my model 58 at my side, and an STG-58 FAL about 4 feet away.
I'm not paranoid, I just have them out to admire them. I promise.
Windows are a problem. I don't really want to do burglar bars but probably will.
For now my bedroom door is kick proof, so I sleep well at night. Alarm to alert me if someone enters the house while I'm asleep.
As I'm sitting here typing this I have my model 58 at my side, and an STG-58 FAL about 4 feet away.
I'm not paranoid, I just have them out to admire them. I promise.
True. But there is a myriad of ways to slow them down long enough to arm and or retreat. We've discussed it many times here. Time is your friend.
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I plan on getting steel doors and making them kick proof somehow. I'll have to modify them in my shop. Something like cross bolts on a safe door, 4 or 5 per side.
Windows are a problem. I don't really want to do burglar bars but probably will.
For now my bedroom door is kick proof, so I sleep well at night. Alarm to alert me if someone enters the house while I'm asleep.
As I'm sitting here typing this I have my model 58 at my side, and an STG-58 FAL about 4 feet away.
I'm not paranoid, I just have them out to admire them. I promise.
If you have the cash, this is what you need.
Padlocks
https://www.pro-lok.com/p-700-ewp-120.aspx
Products
Sebago Son
Member
You can get Multi-Point Locking Systems for your door if you specify such from the higher end door manufacturers. These locking systems are of German Design and like those you see on a bank vault. They are produced in Wisconsin by HOPPE North America. These systems are very secure. I work with them frequently...
http://www.us.hoppe.com/gallery/file/Manual Roundbolt-Shoot 16mm.pdf
This system is used in areas where Hurricanes are a problem and / or Forced Entry Resistance is required.
BTW, there is an ASTM / AAMA Standard for Forced Entry Resistance (FER) of doors and there is a rating level for those doors so listed.
Drew
http://www.us.hoppe.com/gallery/file/Manual Roundbolt-Shoot 16mm.pdf
This system is used in areas where Hurricanes are a problem and / or Forced Entry Resistance is required.
BTW, there is an ASTM / AAMA Standard for Forced Entry Resistance (FER) of doors and there is a rating level for those doors so listed.
Drew
No offense Drew, while they are strong, they are unrealiabe. I just replaced one of their locks a while back that was only two years old and saw very little use.
I've worked on these multi point locking systems many times. They are very expensive and don't hold up.
The biggest problem is with any settling or sagging of the door and or frame. Then the muli point locking system becomes a liability because it doesn't work properly.
And in many cases the workmanship is substandard often made in Asia but imported by way of Europe.
A good old fashion deadbolt is better because it is stronger and more reliable provided you buy a decent one.
Being that I own a glass coating/tinting/security films coating business I feel that I can lend you a few words of advise from 23 years of experience.
1) Glass is the weakest point of entry to ANY structure.
2) If you have glass in your doors/next to your doors, at least have two (2) double dead bolt locks on your doors.
3) WHEN you install your new doors make sure to install new metal doors with metal frames and anchor your new door frames with AT LEAST 3" (4" is more than 50% stronger) stainless steel screws. Make sure to anchor the hinge side as well as the strike side. Anchor points should be no further apart than six inches.
4) If you MUST have glass in your doors then you MUST have a double dead bolt locking SYSTEM. One low and one in the center, minimun.
5) Pardon the plug, GET YOUR WINDOWS COATED WITH A SECURITY FILM. ALL OF YOUR WINDOWS, NOT JUST THE DOORS AND SIDE LIGHTS.
6) Don't scrimp on the security film for your glass. INSIST on a film that is of a micro layered construction and an anchoring system that uses a collagen based silicone structural adhesive (Caulk) that is installed a MINIMUM of 1/2" from the frame into the glass and a MINIMUM of 1/2" from the glass edge on to the frame (Think of a triangle wedge of caulk). Expect to pay AT LEAST $2.25 per linear foot of glass edge area (Width + height x 2 per window) plus the cost of the caulk for installation of the anchoring system. The film installation should run anywhere from $6.00 to $12.00 per square foot of material used to cover the glass being coated, depending on if you select a sun control security film or a strictly security (AKA Clear) security film.
If you have any questions about security films for your glass feel free to PM me.
Class III
1) Glass is the weakest point of entry to ANY structure.
2) If you have glass in your doors/next to your doors, at least have two (2) double dead bolt locks on your doors.
3) WHEN you install your new doors make sure to install new metal doors with metal frames and anchor your new door frames with AT LEAST 3" (4" is more than 50% stronger) stainless steel screws. Make sure to anchor the hinge side as well as the strike side. Anchor points should be no further apart than six inches.
4) If you MUST have glass in your doors then you MUST have a double dead bolt locking SYSTEM. One low and one in the center, minimun.
5) Pardon the plug, GET YOUR WINDOWS COATED WITH A SECURITY FILM. ALL OF YOUR WINDOWS, NOT JUST THE DOORS AND SIDE LIGHTS.
6) Don't scrimp on the security film for your glass. INSIST on a film that is of a micro layered construction and an anchoring system that uses a collagen based silicone structural adhesive (Caulk) that is installed a MINIMUM of 1/2" from the frame into the glass and a MINIMUM of 1/2" from the glass edge on to the frame (Think of a triangle wedge of caulk). Expect to pay AT LEAST $2.25 per linear foot of glass edge area (Width + height x 2 per window) plus the cost of the caulk for installation of the anchoring system. The film installation should run anywhere from $6.00 to $12.00 per square foot of material used to cover the glass being coated, depending on if you select a sun control security film or a strictly security (AKA Clear) security film.
If you have any questions about security films for your glass feel free to PM me.
Class III
bp231986
Member
I agree
. A german shepard or two dont hurt either I live in Missouri, stand your ground is our right and i will do just that.
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labworm
US Veteran
Sad to think we have come this far.
Steel grates on all the windows in the house, ten locks on every door, the Ghetto look is heading your way.
Steel grates on all the windows in the house, ten locks on every door, the Ghetto look is heading your way.
TangoFoxtrot
US Veteran
At night I use bar jams I bought at Home Depot for about $20 each. If they can kick my door down now they deserve what they can get.
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
Three large dogs who hate the sight of people who do home invasions clawing viciously at the window next to the door seems to work well.
Packard
Member
Google "Residential security doors" and you will find many options.
Here is one: Door Acorazada at Eurosteel Solutions Ltd.
Lexan can be had in bulletproof thicknessess sufficient to stop a .44 magnum. So you can have side lights with the door too.
Here is one: Door Acorazada at Eurosteel Solutions Ltd.
Lexan can be had in bulletproof thicknessess sufficient to stop a .44 magnum. So you can have side lights with the door too.
Damn the torpedoes break the windows. My house or for that matter most Florida houses the windows are so easy to get in through probably without breakage, sliding glass doors, heck with the front door. The only time mine is safe is during Hurricanes with 3/4" plywood bolted to the concrete walls.
Colokeb
Member
During the construction of my house, I insisted on much heavier and thicker wood in the door frames. Then I added oak hardwood in the trim area where the deadbolts go, and longer screws throughout the door frames.
If the frame isn't properly anchored though, it won't matter
