Hoppe's hard on bluing? New 586-8

[BuckeyeS&W]

I have a new S&W 586 and I've heard here and other forums that #9 will harm new bluing that is used on today's firearms. Is there any truth in that and if so what is a good substitute? I shoot 95% lead bullets , other solvents I have on my shelf are Kroil, Pro-Shot Products, Butch's Bore Shine , Rem Oil, and Ballistol. Will any of these work ?

I used Kroil the first time I cleaned the bore and was careful not to let solvent stay on bluing very long and I saw no damage to finish but I want to be sure that repeated uses won't harm bluing. Thanks

 

[ralph7]

I have a new S&W 586 and I've heard here and other forums that #9 will harm new bluing that is used on today's firearms. Is there any truth in that
and if so what is a good substitute? I shoot 95% lead bullets , other solvents I have on my shelf are Kroil, Pro-Shot Products, Butch's Bore Shine , Rem Oil, and Ballistol. Will any of these work ?

Stainless steel.

 

[twodog max]

I think you can hear just about anything these days.

 

[Fishinfool]

I like Break Free CLP for all around cleaning / lube. That said, I have friends who use Hoppe's #9 on several newer blued smiths without issue. I think most of the cautions I have read are about certain solvents getting under the nickel plating and causing damage.

Larry

 

[Tom S.]

I'm unaware of anything in the version of Hoppes that's been out for 15(?) years that would hurt any of the new finishes. The old Hoppes was fairly potent, and I even doubt that would, but for certain the more recent stuff won't.

 

[AlHunt]

The "modern revolver" manual from S&W says not to use ammoniated solvents. Hoppes #9 has ammonia.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/sites/d...anuals/S&W_Revolver_Manual_12-15-2014 (1).pdf

Here's a thread about it:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/381718-huge-mistake-new-57-a.html

Maybe someone should make a sticky.

 

[BuckeyeS&W]

Stainless steel.

Yeah. I have some of those also but thanks for great input.

 

[Targets Guy]

Glad I only have old guns.

 

[mauser9]

Good thread. My stuff too is from late 70s and early 80s. Believe bluing today differs in chemicals and process used these days. Only new gun I bought recently was a Ruger American rimfire mag. which states it has a Black Oxide satin bluing finish. Interesting how chemicals may affect different bluing processes.

 

[JK-linux]

Been using Hoppes No. 9 on blued guns for decades, the most recent bottle bought a few weeks back, without any ill effect. I scrub the whole dang gun down with it - no problems. Now, my only caveat is that my newest blued S&W gun as a 19-4 from 1980. However, I have several Colt 1911's of recent manufacture that are blued steel and it doesn't hurt them any.

 

[murphydog]

There have been recent posts here about modern solvents being left on newer blued guns and removing the finish. I doubt using them with a quick removal afterward will have any effect.

 

[SLT223]

S&W recommends Hoppes Elite for the new blued guns.

 

[slickracer]

Ballistol will do the trick.

 

[rwsmith]

It's a new bluing process...

The new process of bluing is cleaner environmentally, but any products with ammonia are bad for the finish. I've heard people say it changes color when exposed to original Hoppes #9. I have the old stuff and the new stuff depending on what I'm cleaning.

 

[steamloco76]

The first time I cleaned my 22-4 TRR revolver, I used Hoppes #9, the new formula, and noticed a slight change in the color of the blueing on the barrel. The new formula S&W blue is definitely sensitive to ammonia. Now I clean with Kroil and M-7 Pro or Hoppes Elite (discontinued). Ballistol is good too, if you can stand the smell.

 

[bmcgilvray]

Love old Hoppe's and love old Smith & Wesson guns.

 

[Krell1]

Hoppe's is the only gun cleaner I've ever used in the last 50+ years. No damage to finish that I could see and my guns remain in like new condition. Maybe the older blueing was better??????

 

[rwsmith]

That's it.......

Hoppe's is the only gun cleaner I've ever used in the last 50+ years. No damage to finish that I could see and my guns remain in like new condition. Maybe the older blueing was better??????

If you note what I said above S&W says that they were compelled to use a cleaner bluing process, but that ammonia compounds WILL attack the finish. One problem noticed is a change in color to a violet/purplely kind of color.

 

[cowboy4evr]

NO one ever talks about " Safari Charlie " I buy it at gun shows and have never had a problem , even on the newer guns . I used Rem Oil for yrs and still keep a spray can around .

 

[BuckeyeS&W]

Thanks to everyone for the helpful information it looks like I have options Kroil, Ballistol,Rem Oil and anything without ammonia. I'll save the Hoppe's for my stainless Smith & Wesson revolvers.

 

[steamloco76]

If you note what I said above S&W says that they were compelled to use a cleaner bluing process, but that ammonia compounds WILL attack the finish. One problem noticed is a change in color to a violet/purplely kind of color.

I hope the difference in blueing shade shows on everyone's monitors- note the purple shade of the barrel on my 22-4 TRR. The barrel was not that shade until I wiped the entire gun down with new formula Hoppe's #9. The cylinder is slightly different from the barrel and frame too.

 

[andyo5]

I have used Hoppe's on a variety of blued guns for years, including a Model 41, and have never seen it damage the blueing.

 

[steamloco76]

I have used Hoppe's on a variety of blued guns for years, including a Model 41, and have never seen it damage the blueing.

Hoppes is safe as anything on S&W blueing until they went with a modern, more environmentally friendly formula somewhere around 2005/06 or so. I'm using up my supply of #9 on my older or stainless guns.

 

[mauser9]

Figures they would ruin a good thing and change the formula or process. We talked earlier about the old Carbona or rust bluing.

 

[rwsmith]

You mean to say......

I hope the difference in blueing shade shows on everyone's monitors- note the purple shade of the barrel on my 22-4 TRR. The barrel was not that shade until I wiped the entire gun down with new formula Hoppe's #9. The cylinder is slightly different from the barrel and frame too.

You mean to say that the NEW formula changed the color of the bluing on a NEW gun? Well, what I read came from S&W, but it appears that they didn't go far enough in warning about specific products discoloring guns. Maybe the new bluing process is just plain inferior in more respects than just ammonia product. Thanks for setting me straight.

 

[slickracer]

Figures they would ruin a good thing and change the formula or process. We talked earlier about the old Carbona or rust bluing.

Blame the EPA.

 

[Laketime]

You mean to say that the NEW formula changed the color of the bluing on a NEW gun? Well, what I read came from S&W, but it appears that they didn't go far enough in warning about specific products discoloring guns. Maybe the new bluing process is just plain inferior in more respects than just ammonia product. Thanks for setting me straight.

A buddy of mine turned a recent re blued 29-3 murky with just Ballistol one time.

 

[BuckeyeS&W]

A buddy of mine turned a recent re blued 29-3 murky with just Ballistol one time.

Man Ballistol is a question mark! What now ,I might have to resort to using Johnson's no more tears baby shampoo to clean my new 586 what a mess this world is .

 

[steamloco76]

Man Ballistol is a question mark! What now ,I might have to resort to using Johnson's no more tears baby shampoo to clean my new 586 what a mess this world is .

I've had no issue with the water based M7 Pro (Hoppes Elite was the same product but has been discontinued) and Kroil on my three post 2005 blued S&W's. Clean, wipe off and wax with Johnson's Paste Wax, Renaissance Wax or the new Flitz Gun Wax.

 

[DWalt]

"The new process of bluing is cleaner environmentally"
Does anyone know exactly what that process involves? Does it produce the normal oxide blued finish or is it something else? I'm not aware that the normal hot-dip bluing processes are particularly environmentally hazardous, just a caustic solution.

If there's any concern about damaging the blued finish, forget the commercial bore cleaners. Just use plain old mineral spirits. Works about as well as anything else and is much cheaper. That's what I have used for many years. I second using the Johnson's paste wax. It cleans and protects. Ren Wax amounts to buying costly advertising puffery.