I made a rookie mistake that I wanted to share so that others do not make the same error. I have used Hoppe's No. 9 for 50+ years, and it's an excellent bore solvent. My standard routine would be to clean my guns and then wipe them down and add a little gun oil before putting them away. However, in the past 10 years, I think that Hoppe's must have changed their formula a little. When going through my safe recently, I found a couple of handguns that I haven't shot in quite a while (a stainless SW1911, a nickel 19-4, and a blued Model 29-2) that were "stuck". The slide wouldn't slide, the cylinder wouldn't swing open, and the hammer locked up. I realized that I had cleaned them with Hoppe's No. 9, but didn't apply a CLP to them before putting them away. Over time, apparently the No. 9 had literally solidified and gummed up the works. I did finally get the handguns apart, sprayed them down with CLP, and they are all functioning flawlessly. Although Hoppe's claims that No. 9 cleans, preserves, and protects firearms...I'm not so sure! It's still my go to bore solvent, but I'll be sure to use a good quality CLP.
Hoppe's No. 9 is not a CLP
- Thread starter Hawg Rider
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OutAtTheEdge
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Interesting experience that somewhat matches my early use of CLP. I had been in the habit of cleaning as you describe; Hoppe's followed by lube. Then a gunsmith friend introduced my to Breakfree CLP, and I immediately changed my gameplan, cleaning with the CLP, then wiping away the excess and I was ready to go with a properly lubricated gun. Then came the fateful day when I, for some long-forgotten reason, cleaned a bunch of guns with Hoppe's again. Recent practice, though, caused me to put them away without adding lube, and eventually I was pulling guns out of the safe that were...umm, somewhat sluggish at least, and a few were locked up tight.
That is very interesting information. I don’t consider your experience as a “rookie mistake”. There are lots of products on the market that make claims about performance. Most do not publish unbiased, independent analysis testing of their products.
I also have used Hoppe’s No. 9 for 50+ years. In the past, I did not experience any issues regarding gumming up the actions, or any rust on the firearms I cleaned with Hoppe’s No. 9 after prolonged storage. I have not lived in a high humidity State.
After getting heavily involved in frequent shooting (about once a month at the range), I did some research on firearm cleaners and lubricants. The Project Farm YouTuber did an excellent comparison about 3 years ago. After viewing that video I decided to only use Hoppe’s No. 9 for “cleaning” and use Clenzoil for the “lubrication”.
Obviously there are lots of options and choices for firearm cleaning and lubrication products.
Good to know as the Hoppes No.9 that I am now using is the newer stuff. My old bottle of No.9 was from the 1960's or 70's. I know the newer stuff does not smell quite the same as the older formula and the formula has changed over the years so as to eliminate the nitro-benzine.
Right. Hoppe's #9 is a fine bore cleaner and copper remover. And surprisingly (from the huge cleaner/lube testing) it is a decent rust protectant on blued guns.
What Hoppe's #9 DOESN'T do well is play well with others. I bought some Tetra Lube gun grease, and used it on my guns and my dad's after cleaning with Hoppe's #9. I cleaned mine often, but my dad didn't use his guns for a while. The Hoppe's #9 and Tetra Lube grease created contact cement. An extremely sticky orange glue. It was almost impossible to open two of his guns. We ended up soaking those two in CLP for a while, and eventually got them cleaned out and working.
Also, depending on how a gun is nickel plated, Hoppe's can cause nickel to flake or discolor. I searched online extensively, and could only find one cleaner and lube listed as safe for nickel....BreakFree CLP. I know, some use Hoppe's #9 on nickel and say "Mine are just fine" but use it on nickel at your peril.
Since BreakFree CLP is a pretty good cleaner and a mid-level rust preventative, I settled on BreakFree CLP for handgun cleaning. For rifle bore cleaning Hoppe's #9 is great as long as you don't mix it with other cleaners/lubes.
Hope this helps someone. God Bless, Marc
What Hoppe's #9 DOESN'T do well is play well with others. I bought some Tetra Lube gun grease, and used it on my guns and my dad's after cleaning with Hoppe's #9. I cleaned mine often, but my dad didn't use his guns for a while. The Hoppe's #9 and Tetra Lube grease created contact cement. An extremely sticky orange glue. It was almost impossible to open two of his guns. We ended up soaking those two in CLP for a while, and eventually got them cleaned out and working.
Also, depending on how a gun is nickel plated, Hoppe's can cause nickel to flake or discolor. I searched online extensively, and could only find one cleaner and lube listed as safe for nickel....BreakFree CLP. I know, some use Hoppe's #9 on nickel and say "Mine are just fine" but use it on nickel at your peril.
Since BreakFree CLP is a pretty good cleaner and a mid-level rust preventative, I settled on BreakFree CLP for handgun cleaning. For rifle bore cleaning Hoppe's #9 is great as long as you don't mix it with other cleaners/lubes.
Hope this helps someone. God Bless, Marc
rockquarry
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I've used Hoppe's #9 since the '60s as a cleaning solvent only. I thought (maybe mistakenly?) that was it's intended purpose, certainly not as a preservative or lubricant. Regardless, it's always worked well for me as a cleaning solvent.
As for a lubricant, a CLP will work, but so will just about any oil. I've cleaned guns with CLPs a long time ago; they don't really work as well as a true solvent, but they're better than nothing. As a preservative, a CLP will probably do the job, but again, so will just about any oil.
As for a lubricant, a CLP will work, but so will just about any oil. I've cleaned guns with CLPs a long time ago; they don't really work as well as a true solvent, but they're better than nothing. As a preservative, a CLP will probably do the job, but again, so will just about any oil.
Erich
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Duly noted. Of course, one does what one needs to do with what one has: I remember one humid Indiana afternoon between junior and senior years in college using 10W30 oil on the outside of my 439 after noticing perspiration was rusting the slide when I was mowing the grass of the gas station at which I worked - that's all that was in the back room.
Except for on my ARs, I personally avoid CLPs and use various appropriate solvents, lubes (I have quite a variety of lubes and a few different solvents) and protectants (only have a couple) as needed.
Except for on my ARs, I personally avoid CLPs and use various appropriate solvents, lubes (I have quite a variety of lubes and a few different solvents) and protectants (only have a couple) as needed.
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rockquarry
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You might cite your personal experience with Hoppe's #9 on nickel finishes. Different debate and different thread that's been covered many times, but briefly, Hoppe's #9 will do no harm to a nickel finish. I don't soak guns in Hoppe's (or anything else), but I've used it on a variety of nickel-finished guns (mostly S&W revolvers) for more than fifty years without any degradation of finish. If you use Hoppe's #9 or other solvents on a nickel finish that is that is already "broken" or flaking, that may be a different story.
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LittleAugieMo
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Didn't think #9 was recommended for stainless or nickel?
Have been using hoppes #9 since 12 years old (56 years, but who's counting). It helps to clean it all off or it keeps working on anything ya missed and runs down hill and collects. Same with some oils.
And have never seen it hurt the stainless guns have used it on.
And have never seen it hurt the stainless guns have used it on.
rockquarry
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Read the Hoppe's #9 label. Cleaning nickel finishes and bores is fine, but don't soak your gun in it, as mentioned in an earlier post. Hard to imagine a need to soak any gun in anything, but there may be exceptions.
Same here. I clean my pistol thoroughly with #9, lube it with Hoppes Gun Oil, and wipe the pistol with a silicon cloth. Been doing that for decades with no issues, definitely nothing getting gummed up.
#9 is a cleaner, not a wonder all in 1 product. I don't believe it's advertised to be that.
hkcavalier
US Veteran
I'm down to MPro7 as my main cleaner, Mobil1 synthetic as my main lube, and a silicone cloth as my main protectant.
Now that I have a small ultrasonic cleaner, I've been experimenting more and more. Initially it was for suppressor baffles, but I've branched out into small gun parts. AR and AK bolts are easy, but eventually I'm sure I'll try a S&W cylinder soaked in cleaner to see how it goes.
Now that I have a small ultrasonic cleaner, I've been experimenting more and more. Initially it was for suppressor baffles, but I've branched out into small gun parts. AR and AK bolts are easy, but eventually I'm sure I'll try a S&W cylinder soaked in cleaner to see how it goes.
DWalt
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Synthetic motor oil in a low viscosity grade is as good as, if not better than, any CLP for gun use. And is far less expensive than all those Snake Oils on the market.
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Am partial to Mobile 1
8 years all my guns no problems....say no more
Rem Oil is the only thing that I use on all my handguns for the past 8 years with no problems ever showing up.......
Remington Rem Oil 1 Oz. Bottle
– Texas Fowlers
Rem Oil is the only thing that I use on all my handguns for the past 8 years with no problems ever showing up.......
Remington Rem Oil 1 Oz. Bottle
– Texas Fowlers
DWalt
Member
As I have stated before, light household lube oils such as 3 in 1 and similar (such as Rem Oil) work very well as bore cleaners, in addition to lubrication. Nothing else is needed.
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Empe
Member
I've used Hoppes #9 for years .It works well for removing powder and lead fouling in rimfires.
Never thought of it as a preservative or for storage . I always clean and then use a light coat of oil before putting my any of my firearms away.
Never thought of it as a preservative or for storage . I always clean and then use a light coat of oil before putting my any of my firearms away.
Hoppes' did change their formula - back in the early 90's if I remember correctly, to remove some chemical that probably caused cancer in California Lab Rats. Not to mention the addictive aroma. The "new" formula works OK, but the old formula seemed to work better at removing lead. I guess they didn't want to name it Hoppes #10.
rockquarry
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I think the nitrobenzine, or whatever it was, was eliminated long before the 1990s. It seems the only difference was that the original Hoppe's #9 had some (minimal) copper removing value while the current Hoppe's doesn't. It still remains an effective solvent. If you need to remove copper fouling, there are several good products available. Some work fast, some work slow, but they'll all get the job done.
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