Hornady Lock N Load Help

[marathonrunner]

Guys, I don't know if I been doing things the wrong way but I use a Lee Hand Press and I weigh each powder charge on my RCBS 1010.

I am hoping this powder loader will speed the process up. I think using the scale I have a tendency to not really make sure I am so exact. I load on the very low end of the charge to ensure I am not making a hot round. Will this truly speed things up?

 

[bwxmas]

I just got a lock and load. I have a dillon too.
The dillon is much easier, and faster to setup.
Once set up, they are both great.
I would recommend trying to use ball powders, or small granules with them, though.
It took me a lot longer to setup the LNL, and I have been doing this a long time.
I loaded some rifle cartridges yesterday on my rockchucker, and tried to use a powder dispenser for the loading. I was using RL22. What I ended up doing was charging the pan, and trickling the powder in. The throws were not close enough for me. I was also loading towards the upper end, so that make a big difference.
When I get to the point of loading 223, or high volume, I will switch to the progressive, and aim for the middle charge, and let it roll.
I have been a single loader all my life, but will say emphatically that the progressives are way faster. I recommend you get it. Have a buddy that has one help you set it up the first time, and have a blast.

 

[MarkDozier]

I have been using the L-N-L for several years. I really like it. I take about 2 to 3 hours to setup for a new caliber, but once setup future calibers swaps take about 5 minutes, if you have multiple powder stems. I use a separate stem for each load. So i pop it in and test the dump. It takes me about 10 dumps to be sure I am getting consistent dumps, but that is just my habit. I am really precise in my loading for pistol and even more so for my hunting loads.
Once you are set you can run great loads in a few minutes.

 

[marathonrunner]

RE: not accurate

I just got a lock and load. I have a dillon too.
The dillon is much easier, and faster to setup.
Once set up, they are both great.
I would recommend trying to use ball powders, or small granules with them, though.
It took me a lot longer to setup the LNL, and I have been doing this a long time.
I loaded some rifle cartridges yesterday on my rockchucker, and tried to use a powder dispenser for the loading. I was using RL22. What I ended up doing was charging the pan, and trickling the powder in. The throws were not close enough for me. I was also loading towards the upper end, so that make a big difference.
When I get to the point of loading 223, or high volume, I will switch to the progressive, and aim for the middle charge, and let it roll.
I have been a single loader all my life, but will say emphatically that the progressives are way faster. I recommend you get it. Have a buddy that has one help you set it up the first time, and have a blast.

The throws you say are not accurate is scaring me. I thought the whole purpose of this was to make it quick and accurate, or at least just as accurate as using a powder scale for each charge. I weigh each load but it is a pain doing this.

 

[bwxmas]

Don't be..
You say you are loading on the light side, and it all depends on the type of powder you use..
I am really anal, so if a measure is off by half a grain it bothers me, but on rifle powders, on the low side, I would not worry at all.
All powder measures are somewhat difficult with stick powders.
Like I said above.. Pistol powders, and ball, or flake powders, I would have no reservations, In fact I am using it now to load some 38's with bullseye.
Trust me when I say life is a bit easier with a progressive..

 

[forestswin]

The throws you say are not accurate is scaring me. I thought the whole purpose of this was to make it quick and accurate, or at least just as accurate as using a powder scale for each charge. I weigh each load but it is a pain doing this.

runner
Good quality powder measures can be just as accurate as a scale. Keep hand weighing each load thrown from the powder measure until you know your PM very well and trust it.

This will include how it throws when full, halfway and as it gets near the bottom.

Some powders won't meter as well as other's in certain PM's- you'll get to learn that too.

I suggest you get a baffle. Did yours come with one? I heard Hornady originally didn't include one but started to in more recent measures. Check with them. Also you can make one yourself:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/396670-perfect-powder-baffle.html

see post #8

or I heard the Lyman baffle may work in the Hornady

do some research on the above.

Baffles should be set 1/3 to 1/2 from the bottom and it helps keep the powder at the same packed density. Without one, the powder has different density from top to bottom and you can get different charge weights.

You don't really need one if you keep the powder measure near full

 

[at_liberty]

Guys, I don't know if I been doing things the wrong way but I use a Lee Hand Press and I weigh each powder charge on my RCBS 1010.

I am hoping this powder loader will speed the process up. I think using the scale I have a tendency to not really make sure I am so exact. I load on the very low end of the charge to ensure I am not making a hot round. Will this truly speed things up?

So, are you referring only to the Hornady Powder Measure, as opposed to the LnL AP progressive press? What else would be "Hornady Lock N Load powder loader"...surely not a $300 Auto-Charge with a Lee hand press?

 

[M&PUSER]

Guys, I don't know if I been doing things the wrong way but I use a Lee Hand Press and I weigh each powder charge on my RCBS 1010.

I am hoping this powder loader will speed the process up. I think using the scale I have a tendency to not really make sure I am so exact. I load on the very low end of the charge to ensure I am not making a hot round. Will this truly speed things up?

I QC my loads about every 20 rounds. My Hornady LNL volume powder dispenser as part of the AP press is very accurate. No need to check every round.

I'd reload toward the upper range of recommended loads for improved accuracy and for safety. Yes, safety. Get sloppy with minimum loads and you could leave a bullet in the barrel. Also, Minimum loads as a rule don't burn all the powder dispensed. Things get dirty when that happens. Go for complete combustion.

 

[Twoboxer]

The throws you say are not accurate is scaring me. I thought the whole purpose of this was to make it quick and accurate, or at least just as accurate as using a powder scale for each charge. I weigh each load but it is a pain doing this.

Powder measures are by nature less consistent than using a good scale properly. Their general purpose is to provide "accurate enough" charges while significantly increasing reloading speed.

Many people (including every progressive press user) obviously use PMs with completely satisfactory results.

Some people use a powder measure to throw charges (eg) ~0.2gr below the desired charge, then move to a scale and trickle up to the final target charge.

Some people use (eg) a Lee dipper to throw a volume of powder into the scale pan that is below the target charge, and trickle up to final.

Nothing is more accurate than individually weighing powder charges on a good scale. However, most folks have no issue with the (safety and) consistency of powder measures for most ammo use.

 

[noylj]

Is the question about a powder dispenser or a press?
In general, you can program a powder dispenser to weigh out a given charge weight faster. When if overshoots by 0.1-0.2gn and you want to worry about it, then you can just slightly dampen you finger and pick up a few kernels of powder to get the weight right.
Most bench rest shooters seldom weight any charges—powder by volume has been historically as accurate as trying to weight the powder. Some have mentioned powder adsorbing water and getting heavier, yet the energy of the powder charge is not effected, so they would end up weighing less energy/charge due to moisture adsorption. Don't know and, since I have never seen any advantage to exactly weighing charges beyond what I get from a good consistent powder measure, I stopped worrying about it about 35 years ago.
If you are asking about a progressive press, then it will speed things up over any non-progressive press.
Of all the progressives I have used, the Hornady L-N-L is, without question, the one with the highest benefit/cost ratio.

 

[Moonman]

NOTE!

On the Hornady LNL-AP press MAKE SURE that the rotating drum hits the top and bottom

of the measures SLOT with CLICK.

This runs the full range of throw and the click knocks any sticking powder loose.

If the rotation is not the full swing of movement, the measure is not properly installed and set up.

I also run a BAFFLE.

You can initially cycle some (just a little) powdered graphite through the measure to help lubricate it.

Clean the disassembled measure thoroughly as per Hornady's instruction video using

Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube. (not the case lube).

 

[THEWELSHM]

Don't be..
You say you are loading on the light side, and it all depends on the type of powder you use..
I am really anal, so if a measure is off by half a grain it bothers me, but on rifle powders, on the low side, I would not worry at all.
All powder measures are somewhat difficult with stick powders.
Like I said above.. Pistol powders, and ball, or flake powders, I would have no reservations, In fact I am using it now to load some 38's with bullseye.
Trust me when I say life is a bit easier with a progressive..

Also, make sure you use the correct metering insert, I go anything over 10 grains rifle insert, anything less pistol insert. I load only Magnum rounds and it works great for me. I disassemble and clean after 500 rounds or a caliber change. 15 mins once you have done it a couple of times...

thewelshm

 

[bbqncigars]

Consistency is most important when using a measure. Always throw the charge the same way every time. Some powders (Trailboss) may meter slowly enough that you'll have to adjust your technique. Other powders (4759) may bridge badly enough to use a knocker or a more suitable measure (Quickmeasure, B&M). Experience and patience are your best tools.

 

[kbm6893]

I am new to reloading and use a Hornady single stage press with the hornady powder thrower. I'm currently using red dot for .38 special since that is what I could find. I got some trail boss but am gonna use the red dot till it's all gone since the powder thrower is set to the red dot already.

I'm in no rush and I don't wanna hurt my gun, so I weigh each and every charge and I don't see that changing. The Alliant recipe calls for 3.0-3.4 grains. 3.8 for +P. I set it for 3.2 and the throws are usually dead on. I'll allow .1 grain either way but if off by more I dump it back and throw again. Yes, I know it's unnecessary and takes longer but the OCD part of me imagines a 4.0 charge or a 2.6 charge getting through and I either get a squib or a blown up gun. I load in 50 round batches and it takes me about 25 minutes to throw the 50 charges. 30 minutes total to seat and crimp.

I don't mind. Unlike most reloaders I don't reload to shoot much more. Just to be able to shoot for less and not be a slave to the market. I have loaded about 1000 rounds of 38 so far and will start with 9mm after Christmas.

So there will be no checking every 10 throws. I tried last weekend to check every 3 and couldn't do it. Saving 15 minutes isn't worth it to me. And I ditched the digital scale and got a good rcbs beam scale. Bit slower but much more accurate

 

[TheTinMan]

Consistency is the key. The action of throwing powder gradually makes the powder more compact in the reservoir. Either rap on the side of the drum with a tool for a couple of minutes or just throw 20-30 prepatory charges to get consistent powder density in the tube.

Baffle helps a lot to keep powder column consistent as the level drops. If you have an older LNL that didn't come with a baffle, just call customer service and ask for one. They'll send it for free (at least they did for me).

Make sure the motion of each throw is the same.

Running graphite through the measure helps and don't skimp on the graphite. Use lots. Smokeless powder contains graphite as a lubricant, so don't worry about any residue left behind.

 

[Engineer1911]

The throws you say are not accurate is scaring me. I thought the whole purpose of this was to make it quick and accurate, or at least just as accurate as using a powder scale for each charge. I weigh each load but it is a pain doing this.

There is NO progressive press currently manufactured that will met YOUR standards of unnecessary perfection / accuracy. My Dillon 550 will produce ~500 rounds per hour of 9 MM, 40 S&W, or 45 ACP that is first rate. I am unable to detect variation in the powder charges when shooting my reloads. Depending on a particular load, velocity may vary between 700 fps to 975 fps.

Consistent powder charges are achieved with a consistent handle stroke to actuate the powder measure the same way each time. Jerky handle movements create variable powder charges. Learn how to operate your new press smoothly, and you will have consistent powder charges and ammo.

If you can't accept variation, sell your Hornady press, and go back to your Lee press sitting in the corner.

 

[at_liberty]

OP has not been back since 10/6. May be a dead issue, leaving us to continue speculating with more questions than answers.

 

[venomballistics]

I believe that the OP has yet to progress upwards from the minimum load for fear of ... well ... everything.
as a result, he has not established any acceptable load range to work with.

I've never told anyone that they should sell their gear, and that reloading is not for them. I've trained a few very hard cases over the years.
In this case, He should have been up and running like a lever pulling pro months ago, loading, shooting and developing with a sure footed confidence easily found in anyone past the first month of the practice.
This has not been the case, nor do I believe it ever will be the case.

Runner ... you are the very first to make me say it.
Sell your loading gear.
This hobby is not for you.

 

[kbm6893]

I believe that the OP has yet to progress upwards from the minimum load for fear of ... well ... everything.
as a result, he has not established any acceptable load range to work with.

I've never told anyone that they should sell their gear, and that reloading is not for them. I've trained a few very hard cases over the years.
In this case, He should have been up and running like a lever pulling pro months ago, loading, shooting and developing with a sure footed confidence easily found in anyone past the first month of the practice.
This has not been the case, nor do I believe it ever will be the case.

Runner ... you are the very first to make me say it.
Sell your loading gear.
This hobby is not for you.

Not everybody reloads to experiment with the best load for the particular gun. I know I don't. I do it to shoot for much less money and to not be a slave at the next panic. I load charges middle of the road but leaning more to the light side. Don't even plan to load 357. I'll stick with 38. Just punching holes in paper. 9MM is next on my list. Maybe 30-06 at some point for my Garand.

 

[stu1ritter]

OP, I run a pair of LnL presses, one small, one large primer. The powder measures are dropping plus or minus .1 grain but most of the time, right on the money. A .1 grain differential will not be noticed by either your gun, you or the target. I chrono most of my loads and my press is very capable of getting SD's (standard deviations) in the single digits. You don't get SD's in single digits unless you are measuring powder accurately. There are two powders I don't use in the LnL measure with the pistol drum, Unique and Trailboss. They just don't measure accurately in my measures.