How do YOU Clear a Squib? Bullet stuck in barrel.

[TheHobbyist]

Hope all is well wherever this message finds you.

I try to teach new shooters about squibs and delayed reaction on primer fires. These are two topics in our shared hobby that I feel do not get mentioned enough, although they are uncommon.

In another thread, I posted that I personally have used a wood dowel and if it was really stuck, some sort of metal rod; generally, a cleaning rod, which is on hand conveniently when at the range.

I am happy to be educated.

What I personally was taught was to use a wood dowel, so as to avoid scratching the rifling. To give it a good smack, firm (with purpose) and if this did not work, then to rig up a jig to clamp a tool to remove it.

My experience has only been with lead wad cutters and 22s and am not sure how jacketed would impact this. I was taught and have done on the few instances this occurred in countless rounds to push the bullet back out of the forcing cone and only remove via forward out the barrel if it is near the end (this was with a 22 round).

I genuinely wish to learn; as well as, bring this topic up again because there has been an uptick in new firearm owners.

Please share.

 

[pistolpete10]

You can buy "squib" rods from Brownells or Midway, mine is brass.

 

[AJ]

I carry an old brass shotgun cleaning rod and a old brass cleaning .22 rod with a small brass headed mallet just for cases stuck in chambers and slug stuck in barrels. This set up has been used at the range by me on other folks gun and worked every time.

Worst I have ever seen was a friend forgot to put in powder in some .38 Special 148 gr WC's and then let another friends wife shot them. She did not figure out something was wrong until the cylinder would not rotate. When the gunsmith finally got it apart there were 6 slugs stuck in the barrel and cylinder. Thank God not one of the following ones had powder in it..........

 

[ContinentalOp]

I've been fortunate to have never experienced a squib load (*knocks on wood*), but I also know that means I'm lacking in proper tools and experience. I've been told a pen could work as a field expedient tool, but all my pens are too thick. A wooden pencil could work, but I don't carry them with me.

The closest I've been to a squib load was some defective ammo. The cases ruptured and got stuck in the chambers of my snub. I was able to remove them using the small pliers in my keychain multitool, but a squib rod would've been beneficial.

Off and on I've searched for a Monadnock D-Jammer, which is a keychain mounted rod, but with no success. Every vendor I've seen that listed them were out-of-stock. And I'm not handy enough to make one. I want something I can keep on me, in my pocket, rather than something to keep in a range bag.

But seeing this thread inspired me to search again. I found a vendor that seemed to have good reviews, listed the D-Jammer, and didn't say it was out-of-stock. Didn't say it was in-stock, either, but it let me order one. Hopefully it works out and I'll get it in the mail before too long, and not get an email saying it was out-of-stock. *fingers crossed*

 

[Drm50]

You can’t get better than hardwood dowel but it must be bore size. Smaller diameter will have room to flex and break. Jacked bullets are worse if wrong diameter rod is used first. I’ve never run across a squib I couldn’t knock out easy if right size rod is used. Unfortunately they only show up after Bubba and all his range friends try everything they can fit in barrel. Using steel rod can damage bore, using undersize rod will end up trying to go between bullet and bore, sticking in worse. In general a 3/8ths brass rod will handle 38 to 50 cal handguns. Don’t peck when taking out squib
hit it smartly.

 

[krsmith58]

i have been fortunate and have never had a squib load. people who know me know i do light work on guns.

a friend brought me an inexpensive .22 revolver with a bullet stuck in the barrel. i told him i couldn't do it now but if he left it with me i would see what i could do.

of course the stuck bullet wouldn't budge. ended up driving and i do mean driving the bullet out. when i got it out it was a them. 3 slugs which were bonded together came out but it was no easy job. cleaned it for him.

my normal fee for such precision gunsmithing is a 6 pack of my favorite beer ( miller high life). i had to up my fee to a 12 pack. my friend was happy with it. him and i drank up that 12 when he came to get his gun.

that is my only squib experience and i hope it stays that way. kenny

 

[chief38]

Either a Brass or hard wood dowel. MAKE SURE gun is unloaded!! Even though to most that's obvious, in the heat of the moment some might forget.

 

[VAPA]

I have one in my HK45, was amazed how much energy it took to drive the bullet out.
Since that day I have a plastic remover rod in my range bag that hopefully will never use.

 

[federali]

Squibs

I've cleared a few but mainly for others. I either use the largest dowel that will fit the bore or a brass or aluminum rod that is softer than the bore itself. With auto loaders, I disassemble the gun and drive the bullet to whatever end is closest. With revolvers, you really have no choice but to drive the offending bullet from the muzzle to the open action.

 

[Racer X]

I live about 2 miles from one of OnlineMetals.com locations. I just ordered a 1' long 3/16 brass rod, and a 2' long one, and a 3' long aluminum 1/4" rod for centerfire above .223. Dirt cheap for store pick-up. I also have a 1' long 3/16" aluminum one in my pistol box for when I have my bullseye gear with me. You can whack the end with most anything. Last time was a wooden door stop.

It happens, especially with bulk .22LR

 

[AzShooter]

I bought a brass rod from Ace Hardware that was 3 feet long. I then cut into rods for my revolvers. Yes, I've had a few squib and so has my shooting partner. Using brass and a brass hammer it has never been a problem pounding out a squib be it lead or jacketed.

I would never use a wood rod. I've seen them brake while I was a range officer at one of the largest shooting ranges in the country.

 

[Beecherkid]

Also a squirt of Kroil down the bore a few hours beforehand will help.

 

[H Richard]

Back in the 80's I build a squib rod, actually 2, one for 38's and one for 45's. Brass rods and attached a large round wooden knob. Make sure the rod is longer than the barrel it is intended for. It has been used maybe 4-5 times over that 40 years. Always put a couple drops of oil or Kroil down the bore and let soak a hour or so before banging it out if you have the option.

 

[Drm50]

I bought Brass and Aluminum rods in 8’ lengths. Had a big market for ram rods for 45 & 50 cal muzzle loader when we got state wide season. Sold some as simple as concave end and D&T other 10/32. Others turned rode to accept Uncle Mikes fittings. There is really no reason that wooden ram rod isn’t ok but hundreds of 1st time ML hunters broke a lot of rods. I still have full length Aluminum rod. Making ram rods for mostly TC Hawkins and Renegades left me with plenty short pieces for squib rods for revolvers.

 

[max503]

HARDWOOD dowel from Home Depot.
Yes, they break and mushroom, but that's why you buy a 3' length.

 

[garbler]

I always carry a brass rod for my 38/357 but on my 45’s I have a couple of oak 3/8” dowels that I chucked up and sanded down to about .357. Wood dowels are not precision so it’s easy to find undersized .360” dowels. Anyway I push a 38 Special case on the tip of each end ( snug fit ) that fits the 452 bore close enough and prevents the dowel from splitting or mushrooming. One is 6” the other 8” as you don’t want wood dowels too long. I suggest removing the cylinder when doing this as there are just too many ways to damage the gun. I like oak dowels as the grain is longer and takes abrupt impact better. Use brass and not nickel cases.

Lots of ways to do this unsavory job but this works for me on revolvers

Rick

 

[Green Frog]

A brass range rod of appropriate diameter is my choice... actually, a good solid one about .300” would be OK for everything I shoot from 32 S&W up to 45. I’m kind of ambivalent about 22s, but would probably use a brass or stainless rod a few thousandths under bore diameter, perhaps with a wrap or two of tape to protect the bore finish.

Fortunately, I haven’t had to use one on my own guns lately, usually it’s to “rescue” someone else.

Froggie

 

[wantmoresmiths]

Squib rod

I shoot quite a bit of competition, so I can't always wait to get home to remove squibs. Even if I'm out practicing, I want to get back in action, rather than wait to get home to deal with the problem. I have only ever had 3 or 4 squibs, but all came out quite easily using the squib tool sold by Revolver Supply. The Squib Tool - The Revolver Supply Company, LLC There may be others who sell this tool as well. This tool works on both pistols and revolvers. The part that goes in the barrel is a piece of brass rod. This tool also includes a piece of brass hex stock which acts as a hammer for pounding out the squib. It works quite well but is a little on the pricey side. I have several friends who purchase the brass rods from Brownell's and keep a hammer in their car for pounding out squibs. Neither my friends nor I have had much luck using a wood or aluminum rod to remove squibs.

 

[J. R. WEEMS]

SQUIBS

Back in the 80's I build a squib rod, actually 2, one for 38's and one for 45's. Brass rods and attached a large round wooden knob. Make sure the rod is longer than the barrel it is intended for. It has been used maybe 4-5 times over that 40 years. Always put a couple drops of oil or Kroil down the bore and let soak a hour or so before banging it out if you have the option.

Thee OP here has it correct. Although no knobs, I have two rods for this operation. One in brass the other a dowel. Have never, yet had a problem with a 22 but there have been others. Shooting with a hunting buddy one time we were out in the back forty some where. He was standing right next to me, better hearing in those days,:rolleyes his newely acquired classic MDL 29 just went sort of 'pop' he had picked up some reloads somewhere and the Red Gods were not happy about it. as luck would have it I had my repair bag in the truck and fixed the problem straight away.No Krpi; in those days but 3&1 oil and a good smack popped the bullet right out He trashed the rest of the box and his lesson of not using someone else's reloads was firmly implanted. CLP will work in a light pinch but more than one bullet I dont know. Have no idea how I would clear a 22 from the breach end if a revolver. I have to assume a BRASS rod of the correct size and length would work with plenty of oil. All this saying putting the gun in a tight clamp would be best if you can. I also have an old vise I use to use that attached to my trim bench when working on doors that helps if you can clamp it to something.

 

[wv109323]

I have seen people use a steel rod but they used a brass case over the end so that the brass contacts the bullet and bore. With a steel rod a smaller size can be used for .38 and .45.