how do you remove from topbreak frame

[kent rogers]

How do I remove the barrel assembly from the frame? I took the screw out at the hinge point and see what appears to be a pin. Should this be tapped out? I tapped on it some, but it has not started out. I did not want to hit too hard on it and cause any damage.

Thanks, if you can help.

 

[glowe]

I usually just loosen the screw slightly and hit it with a wood hammer, then unscrew more and hit it again keep unscrewing until the pivot pin is free from the frame. If it does not move, find a small punch that will easily pass through the threads and tap that until the pin comes out. Should come out then. It had a key built in, so when reassembling, align the line scribed in the top of the pin to a mark on the frame. Let me know if the screw is on the right side of the gun, and if so, it has been put together backwards.

 

[gmborkovic]

Gary, do you spray the hinge before removal?

 

[glowe]

Only if the screw is stuck, then penetrating oil overnight. Have also placed a soldering iron on the screw top to help loosen if still stuck.

 

[kent rogers]

Thank you all for the input. Glowe's method was spot on. I was able to tap the pin out. The bad news is that did not reveal any way to remove the shaft just below the barrel that the cylinder slides on to.

The reason I was trying to remove this cylinder shaft is it appears the spring mounted on the rearward part of the shaft has slipped forward past what appears to be a necked-up part of the shaft meant to keep the spring from moving forward onto the shaft.

This issue with that spring, I believe, is the root of the problems I originally experienced with the gun. I noticed the cylinder was hard to turn. I oiled the cylinder/shaft area but that did not help. I then pulled the cylinder off the shaft and cleaned and oiled the parts.

My problem started when I tried to put the cylinder back on the shaft. It will not seat fully into place. I am pretty sure the spring is out of place as I can see wear on it where it has moved forward on the shaft. That issue would be causing the cylinder to have problems spinning as it should, and ounce removed it will not seat back onto the shaft as it should.

That shaft seems to be pressed into the barrel frame. I'm not sure what I should do now. Even if I pull that shaft out of the frame I don't know if I could find the correct shaft and spring parts to replace. Maybe I can find a barrel assembly with the shaft and spring included.

I wonder if these parts are interchangeable with other manufacturers such as Iver Jonhson etc.? That would give me a better chance of finding the parts needed.

 

[glowe]

You have not told us what model/caliber you have? Most models are similar in that the extractor rod is screwed into the extractor. Normal method is to secure the extractor rod in a vice, fill the cylinder with spent brass, and turn the cylinder counterclockwise to unscrew the assembly. If just a small amount of the spring is damaged, cutting it off and slightly stretching the rest of the spring to the proper length is an option. Here is one example of a 38 Double Action top-break schematic.

I know of no interchangeable parts with other manufacturers, but a spring is easy to find. Careful measurements and looking online will find a replacement should prove productive. One site is Small Coil Springs for Sale Over 70 Trillion Custom & Stock springs

 

[kent rogers]

Glowe, in a prior post I listed all the pat#'s and serial #. Those numbers are the only info stamped on the gun. You answered the post suggesting it's probably a model#3 (it is a 38 cal). I think you are correct.

I think replacing the spring would solve my problems but finding a replacement will be a real challenge. Also, the spring seems so ground on to the base pin I know I will destroy it once I start separating it from the pin.

I will keep trying. I may contact you (PM) in the future if I get stuck again, if that's alright. Thanks for the help.

 

[glowe]

Here are a couple schematics of the Model 3.

 

[desi2358]

I think kent rogers is trying to remove the base pin (part #161 in the 38DA pic Glowe posted). I don't currently have one of these to look at so don't know if there is a pin or if it is pressed or screwed in. The parts list doesn't seem to show anything to secure it in place. Does anyone here know for sure? I do seem to remember there being a spring on the base pin which is the piece he seems to be describing as being out of position.

 

[mmaher94087]

The Base Pin (or quill) is screwed into the barrel lug. It is very thin and can collapse when removing/reinstalling. The pin is tricky to reinstall as it must be clocked correctly to align with the extractor cam slot in the barrel lug.

 

[BMur]

Base pin

Removing the base pin requires a special tool that inserts into the hollow pin and expands to grab.
Without that tool it can’t be done without damaging the pin. Unless you’re extremely lucky and the part is loose.
Even with the tool you often have to heat up the barrel in order to loosen the threaded pin. Probably the hardest part to remove from a top break revolver successfully.

Why do you need to remove the base pin.??

How about you post a couple photos.

If you are trying to remove the shaft that supports the ejector spring that part unscrews from the ratchet.


Murph