How Light Is A M19-2 Trigger Suppossed To Be...?

SteyrAUG

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
38
Reaction score
0
Now don't get me wrong, I just recently got a P&R Model 19-2 and I love it. But damn that is a light trigger when cocked. I had no intention to actually fire when I put my finger on the trigger (thank god I don't touch triggers until I am covering my target) and there was zero slack.

Now once I got used to it I didn't have any more "surprise discharges" but I'm not sure I'd want to use this one as a carry gun or for home defense given my tendency to cock hammers on revolvers.

Can the trigger be adjusted? This is the first gun I've ever considered making the trigger a tad heavier, usually I go in the other direction.

But I must say, what a tack driver and a pleasure to shoot. Even in DA my groups were pretty good.
 
Register to hide this ad
Now don't get me wrong, I just recently got a P&R Model 19-2 and I love it. But damn that is a light trigger when cocked. I had no intention to actually fire when I put my finger on the trigger (thank god I don't touch triggers until I am covering my target) and there was zero slack.

Now once I got used to it I didn't have any more "surprise discharges" but I'm not sure I'd want to use this one as a carry gun or for home defense given my tendency to cock hammers on revolvers.

Can the trigger be adjusted? This is the first gun I've ever considered making the trigger a tad heavier, usually I go in the other direction.

But I must say, what a tack driver and a pleasure to shoot. Even in DA my groups were pretty good.
 
Any pistolsmith should be able to heavy up your single action trigger. It sounds like a prior owner tried to make up for their lack of skill with such a light trigger. Remember smooth is more important than light.
 
Have you much expirence with older Smith and Wessons? I have a few that havent been played with with very light triggers when hammer is cocked, Single action) Make sure the gun is unloaded and cock the hammer, Then try and push the hammer forward, You dont need to push real hard, Just nice and firm, If the hammer drops you may want to concider having a Smith do a little work to it, If it doesnt (push off) I would be happy with it's function,
As a home defense gun, I would ALWAYS go with double action!!!(not with cocked hammer) that would just be unsafe.
Peter
 
Don't even consider single action in a home defense situation. You'll be nervous enough as is without a single action that's twice or three times heavier than you now have.

Generally Smiths have 3 to 5 pound single actions, at least in my experience.

Danski
 
Originally posted by danski:
Don't even consider single action in a home defense situation. You'll be nervous enough as is without a single action that's twice or three times heavier than you now have.


Danski

Do it all the time with 1911s and AR-15s. Why would a revolver be different?
 
In answer to the poster's question about trigger pull, I believe that most S&W K frame revolvers have a double action pull in the 10 pound range, and a single action pull in the 3 to 4 pound range, based on the way my K frames feel to me. It could be that his new K frame gun is completely normal in its trigger pull.

Besides, if you use such a revolver in a personal defense situation, I should think you would use it double action. The single action trigger seems more designed for target work than defense.
 
Check the strain screw in the front of the grip. It should be screwed in flush with the frame pretty much. A lot, and I mean a lot, of folks will back them out to lighten the trigger pull. Makes ignition iffy at best. Also try the push off test as suggested. If you can drop the hammer by pushing with your thumb with the strain screw in the correct position then take the gun to a good smith.
 
The factory spec for the single action trigger pull on a S&W revolver is 3.5 lbs. If the strain screw is tight and the pull still feels light then I would suspect that the rebound spring has been clipped. That's the most common way that shade tree gunsmiths lighten a trigger. It could also be that the single action notch on the trigger has been stoned dull. In either case the fix is easy for someone who knows their way around inside the gun. Besides the obvious problem with unintended discharges the light trigger pull could be an indication of problems that could render the internal safeties useless and create a dangerous gun. Unless you have some knowledge about Smith repair and feel comfortable digging around inside the gun then I suggest you take it to a professional to be inspected.
Good luck.
 
I'm not sure I'd want to use this one as a carry gun or for home defense given my tendency to cock hammers on revolvers.

Serously, no responsible instructor will let you cock a double action revolver in a defense class, even with the slight simulated stress.

"I didn't mean to shoot but the gun went off because I cocked it" is a sure path to deep doo-doo in a real shooting.
 
Ok, I agree with most of what has been said so far, except running to a gunsmith right out of the gate. If the gun passes the push off test, find a trigger pull gauge and see what your's goes off at. If its 3# or higher, nothing is wrong. If its lower, like 2# or less, I'd go a different and much cheaper route to start with. I'd go to Brownells and find a Wolf spring kit for your K frame. They're not expensive, maybe $10 or so.

If you can't install it yourself, find someone who has the experience to help you. Beg if you must, but sit with them while you do it together. Better still, you can test it instantly.

My guess is that if you replace both springs, there is about a 99% chance it'll be better than it is now. And you've got the experience to help you in the future. The pistolsmith will charge you many times what the spring kit will cost.
 
Originally posted by Model520Fan:
Originally posted by SteyrAUG:
Do it all the time with 1911s and AR-15s. Why would a revolver be different?

Originally posted by SteyrAUG:
But damn that is a light trigger when cocked. I had no intention to actually fire when I put my finger on the trigger. . .

Well I wouldn't want to do it with THIS revolver, as noted in my post. But I do it with other revolvers and autos all the time. And if the trigger on my 19 wasn't so light I'd have no problems using it cocked for personal defense.

The trigger on my M29 is just fine. I just wondered if maybe M19s came with a light trigger on purpose or if this one was possibly lightened.
 
Originally posted by jjones33:
Check the strain screw in the front of the grip. It should be screwed in flush with the frame pretty much. A lot, and I mean a lot, of folks will back them out to lighten the trigger pull. Makes ignition iffy at best. Also try the push off test as suggested. If you can drop the hammer by pushing with your thumb with the strain screw in the correct position then take the gun to a good smith.

Hammer passed the push test. Can you please specify the exact location of the strain screw for me? Google wasn't much help.
 
The strain screw is located on the front of the grip frame at the bottom. It puts pressure on the curved spring that you will see that runs up through the grip frame. Make sure it is screwed all the way in.

Even if it is screwed all the way in, some grind the front part off to reduce tension while allowing the screw to be screwed all the way in. Might be a good idea to check the length of the screw in your gun. Does anyone know the spec length of the K-frame strain screw? New ones are available from Brownell's.
 
Hey rberg, gunsmiths have to eat too!!

My point in telling AUG to see a professional is that your personal defense weapon is not the place to be learning how to gunsmith or to cut corners. It has to work the first time and every time. It is a fools economy to try and save money by working on your own defender if you are not trained to do so. There is a reason why everything on the gun has been engineered as it has. The number of coils on the rebound spring and the weight of the mainspring to name just a couple. As much as I like Wolff springs, when it comes to duty guns stick to factory parts. Changing just one seemingly mundane thing can change the whole dynamics of how the gun works and its reliability. If AUG wants to learn how to work on guns he should be doing it on one that he won't need to defend himself or his family with. Get a plinker, some tools and Kunhausen's book and go to town! Have fun! Just don't do it with the gun you are depending on to save your bacon.
 
When I hear, or read, about everything is fine in handling a 3-pound or less single action, even a 4-pounder in auto or revolver, I advise this:

Put the gun down and trot, run or sprint
a block and then back. This'll simulate a little bit the adrenalin rush you might have under stress. The moment you stop running, pick up the gun and coolly cock it and aim it.
icon_wink.gif
icon_smile.gif
icon_razz.gif
 
Originally posted by texagun:
The strain screw is located on the front of the grip frame at the bottom. It puts pressure on the curved spring that you will see that runs up through the grip frame. Make sure it is screwed all the way in.

Thank you, that was helpful.

The screw was in all the way and I didn't see any evidence of it being shortened. I'm starting to conclude that I'm simply not used to a 3.5 lb trigger and I bet my Rugers and Colt Python, as well as my S&W Model 29 simply have heavier triggers and I am just not used to such a light trigger.

I'm going to get a gauge and verify it at 3.5 lbs before I do anything else. Seems like a useful item to own in any case.

Appreciate you taking the time to answer my new guy questions.
 
Originally posted by danski:
When I hear, or read, about everything is fine in handling a 3-pound or less single action, even a 4-pounder in auto or revolver, I advise this:

Put the gun down and trot, run or sprint
a block and then back. This'll simulate a little bit the adrenalin rush you might have under stress. The moment you stop running, pick up the gun and coolly cock it and aim it.
icon_wink.gif
icon_smile.gif
icon_razz.gif

Well having actually competed (where we do quite a bit of running) with SIGs, 1911s and even once with my Colt Python, I've never had a problem.
 
Originally posted by SteyrAUG:
Originally posted by danski:
Don't even consider single action in a home defense situation. You'll be nervous enough as is without a single action that's twice or three times heavier than you now have.


Danski

Do it all the time with 1911s and AR-15s. Why would a revolver be different?

A good S&W revolver in SA might have a trigger of 3 pounds or so and this is normal. A 1911 is usually heavier and an AR is MUCH heavier.

The light SA trigger is the reason that LAPD and NYPD converted or ordered their S&Ws in DAO. It seems that officers would cock the piece for "effect" and then negligently fire the piece on occasion killing a suspect who did not deserve it.
 
Back
Top