How much does a S&W 66-2 from the 1980's sell for?

[undeadmerc3]

I myself want to be clear that I don't plan on instantly selling my S&W 66-2 just yet since there is some tinkering that I need to do to make sure it functions OK, but i've been thinking about selling it down the road and getting a more up to date S&W snubby that isn't being discontinued.

The serial numbers for my 66-2 suggests it was made in the 80's last I checked(correct me if i'm wrong. It's serial number is ALV6013 after all) so I do stand corrected that just because a gun is older doesn't mean it isn't worth firing. However for the sake of the guns age, I think that should plan on pawning it off down the road once I tinker with it a bit.

I myself just want an updated revolver. I just need a replace a few parts to make it up to date. I found out that the extractor rod needs a swap since it sometimes requires more push when the cylinder is positioned on a certain chamber.

 

[HughD1]

Pictures would help. Barrel length, condition, original stocks, and if you have the box and papers will all affect the value.

HUGH


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[pharmer]

There was a 6" (gun only)66-2 at last Saturday's Orlando show, original stocks and maybe 90%+ condition. It was marked $879 but the vendor would take $800, he said. Joe

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

I saw 2 good shooting specimens in the rack at my LGS for $650.
2 months later, they were both gone

 

[schutz5]

About three years ago I almost bought a mint 66-2 4 incher with box and original new targets grips for my offer of $650.
Out the door it would have been like $735 plus registration fee. It was a consignment.
I backed out because I mistook it for a pinned barrel model that would have matched my 66-1.
(A few months later I found a mint 586 ND for $850-vindicated!)

 

[Nightowl]

I would rather have that gun than any new one! But that's just me.

You might want to consider buying a new one and then deciding which one you want to keep.

 

[Farmer17]

A 2 1/2 inch 66 will probably go for 8 or 9 hundred.

 

[ken158]

You will get all kinds of estimates here but without your gun’s condition being considered, it really means little. You mention “tinkering” is needed with parts replacement but you should know that many parts are fitted and without proper knowledge of what to do and how to do it, you may be decreasing further the value of your gun. I would suggest just selling it like a used car - as is with no warranty. You will likely come out way ahead with no stress and will still get more for it than you paid years ago.

 

[03hemi]

Depends on how much someone wants it?

 

[Rubone]

I'd take an older 66 over a new one in a heartbeat. I'll never understand the hesitation folks have with using an older model. And the comment about "tinkering" with it make me cringe!

 

[swagmeister]

I know nothing about your gunsmithing skills and as stated above, "tinkering", especially by someone who does not know what they are doing, is usually not a good thing. I am not saying that you don't know what you are doing, but as a general rule, if the repairs and replacement of parts and fitting of those parts were done by a respected gunsmith, I would feel much better with purchase. Good luck.

 

[H Richard]

Unless this gun has had a million rounds through it, and not cared for well, I would keep it. No "upgrades" will make it shoot any better than an original 66-2 (that had been well maintained).

 

[THE PILGRIM]

Have a 2 and a 4 inch 66, both Untinkered.
Prefer them to new ones.
When I was Gun trading and doing the Gunshows, if I had any info or idea that a gun had been ‘tinkered’ with, I would usually would not buy or trade for it,
Or - I would take the seller for a scenic trip down through Low Ball City.
Define Buggered?
Remember I’m the Dude who bought the 686 with a K Frame Sideplate.
This one.

 

[undeadmerc3]

Have a 2 and a 4 inch 66, both Untinkered.
Prefer them to new ones.
When I was Gun trading and doing the Gunshows, if I had any info or idea that a gun had been ‘tinkered’ with, I would usually would not buy or trade for it,
Or - I would take the seller for a scenic trip down through Low Ball City.
Define Buggered?
Remember I’m the Dude who bought the 686 with a K Frame Sideplate.
This one.

Hmm, sounds like an idea. I still plan on tinkering with it a bit since the cylinder has issues coming out when the cylinder is in some positions. Might as well keep a piece of history, but what separates an old 1980's model from newer ones.

 

[cadmike]

You’re going to “tinker” with it? Please don’t. Think: proper repair.
It sounds like you may have a slightly bent extractor rod but I’m only guessing. That part can often be repaired without replacement.
A 66-2 is as modern a revolver as one could ever need these days. 1980’s…history…ha ha.

Good luck with it.

 

[reddog81]

I’m not sure of the value but I’d be willing to bet tinkering with it will make it worth less.

 

[The Mighty S&W]

There is a lot to consider when discussing value. You mention needing to replace parts which would lead me to believe that condition is less than great. I can tell you that just a few weeks ago, I bought a 2.5 inch model 66-3 in like new in box condition for $800.00. It was made in 1993.

Assuming that you otherwise like the gun, I would think carefully about whether or not you really want to get rid of it in favor of a newer revolver. Obviously, if it is worn out or something along those lines, it should be replaced. Otherwise, you’re likely to be trading a highly desirable revolver made to a standard of quality that hasn’t been seen in many years, for something less desirable.

I’d keep my older model 66 and carry it (and I do).

 

[tlawler]

Probably not indicative of real world pricing, but I consigned a 4” 66-1 to a high volume seller on gunbroker a couple of years ago. It had box, tools, and paperwork with it, but I was astounded by how much it went up to. It ended up with a winning bid of $1725! With the 15 minute rule, it went almost 2 hours past the auction ending time. Even after all the fees, I netted over $1400! I was one happy seller.

Edit to add: I was wrong about the dash number, it was a dash 1, not -2, which would affect the pricing considerably. I changed it in the post. My apologies.

 

[BSA1]

I myself want to be clear that I don't plan on instantly selling my S&W 66-2 just yet since there is some tinkering that I need to do to make sure it functions OK, but i've been thinking about selling it down the road and getting a more up to date S&W snubby that isn't being discontinued.

The serial numbers for my 66-2 suggests it was made in the 80's last I checked(correct me if i'm wrong. It's serial number is ALV6013 after all) so I do stand corrected that just because a gun is older doesn't mean it isn't worth firing. However for the sake of the guns age, I think that should plan on pawning it off down the road once I tinker with it a bit.

Unmolested i.e. untinkered, S&W revolvers left in factory condition are usually worth more and more desirable when it come to resale.

You seem to think that the age of the gun is a bad thing. Quite to the contrary. Well care for older revolvers in original condition are very desirable.

 

[S&W-Keeper]

I sold one of
my 66-2's last year for $850.