How much for shooter pre-29 and a few other questions

[SigKev]

Now that I have a very nice pre-29 (95%), I am thinking about a pre-29 shooter. How much should I expect to pay for a 80% or better shooter with a 4 inch or 6.5 inch barrel? I know the Coke grips add several hundred dollars. I have found several guns without the coke grips, but the prices seem high to me (over $1200).

Also, should I have any concerns about shooting a pre-29 on a regular basis? I have read a few articles on what to check (timing, lock up, etc.). I would avoid really hot magnum loads. Primarily for range fun.

Thanks.

 

[SigKev]

Now that I have a very nice pre-29 (95%), I am thinking about a pre-29 shooter. How much should I expect to pay for a 80% or better shooter with a 4 inch or 6.5 inch barrel? I know the Coke grips add several hundred dollars. I have found several guns without the coke grips, but the prices seem high to me (over $1200).

Also, should I have any concerns about shooting a pre-29 on a regular basis? I have read a few articles on what to check (timing, lock up, etc.). I would avoid really hot magnum loads. Primarily for range fun.

Thanks.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I know the early .44 magnum's were designed for use only with lead bullets. In Handloader 241 on page 30, Brian Pearce discusses this.

 

[29aholic]

Kevin
I would consider any gun 95% or less a nice shooter. At 95 it has collector value, but it is not so pristine that I'd be afraid to shoot it on occasion.

Unlike my buddy Tim (Gun4Fun) I prefer Not to hotrod my 44's even the newer ones except maybe for hunting. For every day shooting I prefer medium heavy 44spl loads with cast bullets.
My long time load has been 7grs of IMR 700X and a 240 cast Keith style bullet. It has plenty of oomph (I have killed deer with it) but it is not so hot that it will batter the gun or your hand. You can shoot that load all day.

 

[SigKev]

Tim and Curtis, thank you for the responses. Any recommendation on factory 44spl loads? I am not (yet) setup to reload, though I will be some day.

 

[SigKev]

I thought of another question. As I am looking for shooters, I have seen a gun or two where the sideplate screws had obviously been removed a few times because the screws were a little work and the screw hole edges were shiny. How nervous should that make me?

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

We all want guns that have never had the sideplate off, but I've bought a few that have had their sideplates removed, and I've never had any real trouble yet. Most of the time, it's just that the previous owner has taken it off to give his gun a thorough cleaning. If there are problems with the trigger, like push off or a really light pull, or the hammer feels strange whan being thumbed back, as in too easy or light, then I would be concerned.

Most guys don't realize that Smiths are made to function correctly with a minimum of lubrication, and use crappy products that gum up the inards. They then end up taking the plate off to get it working again. I have known people who took the sideplate off just to see what everyone on the forums were talking about concerning the inner workings of a S&W revo., or because their daddy told them to totally strip a gun after every use and clean it.

What I posted above about jacketed bullets was in referrence to your question aboout things to watch for. The steels used in early .44's from Smith wasn't designed for jacketed bullets, and Smith used to advise the same.

Just as a side note, I don't hotrod my guns. I do load them to their potential for practice though.

I don't buy a .44 magnum to shoot a .44 special, but I stay within recommended loads in established manuals. I find that as components get harder to come by, and way more expensive, I increasingly load to midrange levels. They do what you need to do, and are cheaper to assemble. I also load according to which model of Smith I am shooting.

 

[29aholic]

Tim, I forgot my smiley last night...was just razzin ya

Kevin, you should find any number of companies that offer "cowboy" loads in 44spl. Once you get set up for loading you can bump the loads up if you want to be slightly hotter, but not all out 44mags.
Dont get me wrong the gun will handle the heavy stuff although I would take note of what Tim said about cast bullets.
I load down cuz I am a cheap ass and can get more rounds for my money, and I really find now that I am older dont like recoil as much as I used to.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I knew that Curtis!

I just didn't want anyone who doesn't know either of us to think I'm some kind of demolishion expert

 

[Hondo44]

Kevin,
Great advice from everyone above. I agree that I'm not afraid to shoot a 95% gun. However, like you, I'd just as soon have another regular shooter. Since pre 29s are pricey as you've mentioned, I opted for a 29-3E (1987) which is just the early stamping for a 29-4 both of which were improved over the 29-3 by the addition of the 'Endurance package". (For reference, the 29-2 was the last pinned and recessed model, and last 6 1/2" barrel.) A 29-4 made after 1990 even has the longer cylinder notches. And all the above guns still have square butt frames and good old forged triggers and hammers with hammer mounted firing pins. Best of all they can be had in the $500 to $700 price range.

 

[diamonback68]

Kevin, I guess my question is, why does it have to be a pre-29 shooter? You could find a shooter grade model marked 29-2 or later gun for less then half the price of what you have been looking at, say around $500. It's only going to be a shooter anyway.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Originally posted by Hondo44:
Kevin,
Great advice from everyone above. I agree that I'm not afraid to shoot a 95% gun. However, like you, I'd just as soon have another regular shooter. Since pre 29s are pricey as you've mentioned, I opted for a 29-3E (1987) which is just the early stamping for a 29-4 both of which were improved over the 29-3 by the addition of the 'Endurance package". (For reference, the 29-2 was the last pinned and recessed model, and last 6 1/2" barrel.) A 29-4 made after 1990 even has the longer cylinder notches. And all the above guns still have square butt frames and good old forged triggers and hammers with hammer mounted firing pins. Best of all they can be had in the $500 to $700 price range.

I just want to clarify a little bit of this...

The 29-3E was before the 29-4 in both order and advancements. The 29-4's from very late '89 were the beginning of the elongated bolt notches. the 29-5 introduced in 1990, had all the endurance upgrades.

Anyone wanting the PDF's I have on this subject are welcome to e-mail me, and I'll send them right out. I have already sent them to about 30-40 forum members here. They have all the stats and time frames, and are very informative, and also include load data suitable to the various dash models of the 29.

 

[Hondo44]

Originally posted by Gun 4 Fun:

Originally posted by Hondo44:
Kevin,
Great advice from everyone above. I agree that I'm not afraid to shoot a 95% gun. However, like you, I'd just as soon have another regular shooter. Since pre 29s are pricey as you've mentioned, I opted for a 29-3E (1987) which is just the early stamping for a 29-4 both of which were improved over the 29-3 by the addition of the 'Endurance package". (For reference, the 29-2 was the last pinned and recessed model, and last 6 1/2" barrel.) A 29-4 made after 1990 even has the longer cylinder notches. And all the above guns still have square butt frames and good old forged triggers and hammers with hammer mounted firing pins. Best of all they can be had in the $500 to $700 price range.

I just want to clarify a little bit of this...

The 29-3E was before the 29-4 in both order and advancements. The 29-4's from very late '89 were the beginning of the elongated bolt notches. the 29-5 introduced in 1990, had all the endurance upgrades.

Anyone wanting the PDF's I have on this subject are welcome to e-mail me, and I'll send them right out. I have already sent them to about 30-40 forum members here. They have all the stats and time frames, and are very informative, and also include load data suitable to the various dash models of the 29.

Hi Tim,
I don't see amy difference in our provided information but I'll e-mail you for a copy of the information you offer.

I didn't mention the 29-5 model because as far as I know it isn't offered in the traditional configuration of the pre-29 model; you get a Silhouette gun with 10+" barrel or a .44 Classic with full lug barrel.

 

[SigKev]

Tim, thank you for the offer. I would like a copy of the PDFs. My email is in my profile.

Jim, thanks for the suggestion. I was aware of the change in the -3E and have considered one of those for a shooter.

Dick, that is a fair question. I actually have a 29-2 4 inch that could be a shooter. But it is unfired except for the factory, so that makes it a tough choice. Honestly, I think part of my desire to have an older 29 for a shooter is my own pleasure in having a revolver older than me (I am 38) to shoot and enjoy. Not sure I can explain it, but there is something nostalgic about the pre-29 or 29 no dash that attracts me more than a 29-2 shooter. It probably means that I have simply caught some illness that I will not recover from anytime soon

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Jim, I apologize if it seemed as though I was knocking you. That was not my attention at all.

The 29-3E started in early '88, not '87. This subject comes up a lot, so when advising someone on the purchase of a 29 for durability, I like to be precise with the time frames. If there's no E next to the 3, it isn't an endurance enhanced gun, and the 3E's were just the beginning, with only one upgrade.

The 29-3E had the hardened yoke. The 29-4 had the new self adjusting yoke screw for keeping the yoke properly fitted to the frame, and started the radiused stud package, in addition to the hardened yoke, and the longer bearing surfaces on the yoke barrel. With each dash change there were improvements made. The 29-5 had all of them, including the elongated bolt notches, slightly larger bolt, internal hammer block to eliminate trigger kickback. The 29-5 was made in the standard configuration as well as the classic hunter series.

 

[Hondo44]

Tim,
No apology needed! I was using the SCS&W for the dates and I know all sources do not always agree. I did not realize 29-5 also came in a standard configuration besides re-introducing the 5" barrel. So thanks for the PDFs and additional details/insight!

 

[Hondo44]

Originally posted by SigKev:
Jim, thanks for the suggestion. I was aware of the change in the -3E and have considered one of those for a shooter.

Dick, that is a fair question. I actually have a 29-2 4 inch that could be a shooter. But it is unfired except for the factory, so that makes it a tough choice. Honestly, I think part of my desire to have an older 29 for a shooter is my own pleasure in having a revolver older than me (I am 38) to shoot and enjoy. Not sure I can explain it, but there is something nostalgic about the pre-29 or 29 no dash that attracts me more than a 29-2 shooter. It probably means that I have simply caught some illness that I will not recover from anytime soon

Kevin,
I can certainly relate to that; we have a disease with no cure. All we can do is continue to feed it. I have an eighties vintage 624, a 296 , and 4 or 5 Single Actions in 44 Special that are all great shooters. But I still just had to plunk down a boat load of cash for a couple of pre 24s. Both almost too nice to shoot (I said almost) but just had to get them when the gettin' was possible and the price was right.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Jim,
I was told that forum member jcelect has a 4" version of the 29-5. Maybe he could send you a picture or some info on it.

 

[MikeyL]

Guys: I took note of the comments regarding .44 Special versus .44 Magnum ammo, and wanted to share my experiences. My first .44 Magnum was, of course, a Ruger Blackhawk,(since they were cheapest!) Good shooter, but I am not only a geezer (67) but have small hands; the full-house loads just weren't fun. I started shooting .44 Specials; recoil is almost non-existent but I found that the Specials were not particularly accurate in the Magnum gun.

I have had the same experience with a Model 29-2, and the leading/carbon buildup in the Magnum cylinders can be a bugger if you don't clean the gun every shooting session. I also found that loading the .44 Magnum down to reasonable levels preserves the gun, eases cleaning issues, saves my wrists, and maintains the accuracy (of course, each gun shoots different with changes in loads; we have to experiment). It has also been my experience that the early pre-29's and Model 29's can "shoot loose" with heavy loads...ergo, the 29-5 and all the changes. The new guns are real blasters, but do lack the panache and class of the early guns. Just food for thought.

MikeyL
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance and the gospel of envy. It's inherent value is the equal sharing of misery." -Winston Churchill

 

[cubrock]

Originally posted by SigKev:
Now that I have a very nice pre-29 (95%), I am thinking about a pre-29 shooter. How much should I expect to pay for a 80% or better shooter with a 4 inch or 6.5 inch barrel? I know the Coke grips add several hundred dollars. I have found several guns without the coke grips, but the prices seem high to me (over $1200).

Also, should I have any concerns about shooting a pre-29 on a regular basis? I have read a few articles on what to check (timing, lock up, etc.). I would avoid really hot magnum loads. Primarily for range fun.

Thanks.

Saw one at the last local show for $1400 and it had Cokes. Condition was between 90 and 95%. I thought the price was reasonable if you really wanted a shooter-grade Pre-29. Oh - it was a 6.5" gun. Had it been a 4" gun, it would have gone home with me.